Charlie R

Could try relocating the downspout, add more downspouts, make sure the gutters and downspouts are the larger size, not the smallest size, have a landscaper look at installing a yard drain system - some slope away from the home with catch basins and underground leaders to drain the water into the neighbor's yard. Trench drain across the drive. These are just maybes because it is a bad situation.

Thanks Jim, I appreciate it.

Thanks Jim, I couldn't remember if, after some distance, you were required to have a separate ground or could still use a four-wire feed. The decision to use the four wire feed or three-wire with a separate ground is not distance driven, just preference?

If a garage or other out building has a secondary panel with a 3-wire feed and separate ground rod, no metallic path between the buildings where the primary and secondary panels are located, is there a distance requirement (minimum or maximum) between the primary and secondary panels, or is it between the buildings, or no distance issue at all? Thanks.

Found the good old Maxwell House junction box in the attic. Yep, it was still "hot." Click to Enlarge 80.79 KB

Is the proper term then "crappyplate?" I prefer to use the ancient Greek term "Bullis Crappus."

People are probably storing peanuts in their attic, the rodenst can smell 'em.

Many de-icers contain calcium magnesium acetate (CMA), which is proven to cause deterioration of concrete. If you go to http://www.ossian.com/ you can follow their link to all sorts of studies that show the effects of various ice-melters on concrete.

It is not recommended to use de-icing chemicals on concrete that has cured less than one year. I remember getting that from a structural engineer who specialized in concrete. The heat generated by the chemical can cause spalling of the top of the cold concrete. Personal experience as I used to be associated with large scale snow removal operations and I used to fight with people all the time on this, but the evidence would show each spring.

Hope everyone got back safe and sound. I had a good time, didn't get to meet everyone I wanted to meet, I think one of the better classes was the last class - the pre-drywall class that explained the new ASHI pre-drywall inspection standards. Thoughts?

Had a good one today, a small one story ranch/cottage with a basement. Someone built an addition on the back, but it looked like they just built it on the concrete porch patio slab. Sure enough, I start to tunnel under, never hit anything but dirt. Click to Enlarge 87.25 KB

Yep, write them up as a recommended safety related issue. Thief will just kick the door in anyway or break a window. It's a lot harder to kick the door "out" if you are inside.

Always tap the panel with the back of your knuckles first, electricity makes the muscles contract so if you touch a hot panel with your fingertips, your hand clenches into the panel. If you use the back of your knuckles, your hand will clench itself away from the panel. Always wear all cotton clothes, if you really do get hit with electric, the heat melts poly clothes into your skin. When you actually remove the front, stand slightly to the side, in case it does get "blown" off. Always set the front down on the floor where it can't fall any further. It may not hurt your toes in your nice fully enclosed shoes but if it fell over on your clients sandal clad feet, it may cause more than hard feelings.I try to carry some panel screws with me so I can at least get a couple of screws back in the panel to close it up. Any other safety tips are greatly appreciated.

You should be able to see the connection to the metal of the ladder or other equipment, and the termination point but sometimes the bonding wire goes through the deck pool material, to reduce the potential of a tripping point. In retrofits, it's not unusual for the contractor to cut a groove in the pool deck and install the bonding wire and then fill over the groove.

Charmaster - www.charmaster.com/. I hate inspecting these.

Good catch, and a good lesson. Thanks.

Inspected a home yesterday with 3 heat pumps, but the main unit used a propane gas furnace as the auxiliary/emergency heat. Not unusual, and I have seen at least two that where backed up by gas hot water boilers.

Question - Where does the water heater vent terminate? If it's next to or near the chimney flue, then consider this - the fireplace and the furnace are both using air from within the home. There has to be make-up air getting sucked in from somewhere. The draft vent for the water heater is wide open, and if the water heater isn't heating, just on the pilot, then make-up air could be getting sucked down the vent and into the basement, and if the vent terminates right by where the smoke is exiting, then you got smoke in the basement. Even if the vent isn't right next to the chimney flue, on a cold, still night, the smoke could be drawn to it. Make-up air sources have been reduced by the sealing of air leaks in the basement. Try cracking a window about 1/4" in the same room as the fireplace when using the fireplace, problem will go away. Or make sure the furnace is turned down and not running so you don't need so much make up air at the same time.

Tell them to do what you told them - get an electrician out there. If the electrician says the panels are fine, it's the electrician's conscience and liability. If the electrician says they have to be replaced, then your point is proven. I agree with everyone else, it doesn't matter where the panel is installed, I have called out FPE Stab-lok panels in condos, gotten a boatload of stuff about it, but it ended with the condo association, after having three different electrical contractors tell them I was right, change out all the panels, including the main service equipment.

I dropped my TK11 once in a basement, it was on and when it hit the floor it went off, wouldn't come back on. Same thing, it was the battery. tried to charge it, nope.

I had an inspection just last week where I got there early so I went walking around the vacant home. Nice two story Colonial, built in 2007. Been vacant several months, now it's a short sale. Got to the back and noticed icicles at the bottom of the vinyl siding. Got my attention. Walked around the side of the home, warm water pouring out at the bottom of the bump-out for the gas log fireplace. I looked up and there are icicles hanging from the bottom of the second floor window. I called the listing agent, he can't come but he says the buyer's agent is going to be there at any time. 30 minutes later, he shows up, opens the door, it's like a sauna. The first floor family room ceiling is laying on the hardwood floor. I go upstairs, sure enough the hot water supply line to the master bath shower is split. Down to the basement, wade through a foot of water to turn off the main. Go up and look at the thermostat, it's set at 60 degrees. I'm a little puzzled. Buyer's agent calls seller's agent - seller's agent mentions there was no problem there last night. Why was he there? The seller had turned the heat off to save money and the agent went to turn it on before we got there. The seller's agent says it was 24 degrees in the home when he turned the heat on. Oh, and the seller, thinking he had the place sold, also had canceled his home owners insurance. My client walked, now it's a foreclosure instead of a short sale.

I decided to go, will I get to meet anyone from this forum there? If you go, I'm easy to recognize, I'll be the fat old guy with white hair.

Thanks John, I was getting ready to buy another TK-11, like you pointed out it's good to have a back-up, but the TK-15 does indeed look like the better way to go.

At a minimum you should carry the general liability - I carry 1 mil. as many contractors require that much if you are going to do new home inspections here (Maryland). E & O - up to you. I carry it to keep my wife from nagging me about it.

Man, I hope you washed your hands before dinner!