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Bill Kibbel

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Posts posted by Bill Kibbel

  1. Great post for discussion. I'm hired to find all the issues with buildings. It's a lot of information so my report is clear on what are minor things vs material defects. What the clients, agents & lawyers do with that info after my job is done has nothing to do with my work.

    It sucks to hear a stories of nice folks getting screwed, but we don't hear the whole story from both sides.

    I learned early in life that there are always people that don't give a shit what others think of them as long as they're making an extra buck. Our profession seems to attract them.

    I just read tonight: "The world isn't completely filled with assholes. They're just strategically placed so that you'll come across one every day".

  2. Thanks Brandon. I've done all the steps on 2 TK11s, a TK12 and the TK15 and also soaked the switches in alcohol, which gives about another week.

    I will contact the linked supplier to see about replacements if another source doesn't follow through. I received an email today from a fella at www.fenixlighting.com. He said he has switches and all he needs is my mailing address. No mention of cost or shipping charge.

  3. The safety sensors are not aligned - or a leaf or a spider web is blocking the beam. It's constantly trying to reverse as if an object interrupted the beam. I think waiting after crossing the beam may be an odd coincidence.

    It's always been quicker and easier to fix it than write it.

  4. Are there anti-siphon vacuum breakers on the supplies to the irrigation system? (there should be 2 as you indicated one zone is supplied before the p-reg) They can be damaged when they blow out the lines incorrectly for winterization. The failure of the device (or lack of) can cause weird stuff to happen.

    Have them shut off the supplies to the irrigation for a while and see if there's any change.

  5. I had an issue when I first encountered the GE countdown timer. I think it gets confused when you push several buttons in a short amount of time. I just pressed and held the large bypass button and it cleared the confusion.

    I now operate only 1 button for a quick check. If it doesn't work at all, it's probably because the ground wire didn't get connected.

  6. Too little info given. I'll assume the duct above is the return air duct since you said the filter was on top.

    It's obviously not a direct vent furnace. Even with a louvered door, combustion byproducts can be pulled out of the system and into the return air opening of the furnace. Also, the louvered door was intended for replacement air for combustion - it's not a large return vent.

    I'd guess the lazy-ass contractor replaced a furnace without bothering to connect it to the existing return duct system.

  7. We do cost projections for the most major issues, only if specifically requested by the client (not agents). I make it clear how wildly different quotes can be from different contractors for the same repair. I also warn them of contractors that try to sell all kinds of additional unnecessary work.

    Some examples of contractor pricing:

    When I ask the plumber I've used for many of my projects for the cost of any repair, it's always $1200 for anything now. Replace 30' of cast iron - $1200. Replace a toilet seal - $1200. Replace a trap - $1200.

    My favorite masonry contractor won't touch anything now for less than $7000.

    Folks getting quotes for replacing 4 circuits of knob & tube. 1st quote -$4600. 2nd quote - $22,000.

    Folks getting quotes for re-parging a stone foundation. 1st quote $650. 2nd quote $4400.

    1st chimney contractor - 3 flues need cleaning, replace a damper and remortar one of the crowns $1050. 2nd contractor - "I have to contact the fire marshal to condemn your house. We have to immediately tear down and rebuild your three chimneys for $65,000".

  8. Lustron was the only one that was all steel.

    I think the Gunnison factory was in Indiana. There may have been another after the purchase by US Steel. They were shipped by train and truck as kits all over continental US. They were the first and one of the biggest panellized prefab producers.

    Pre-cut home kit manufacturers probably sold more homes though.

  9. I used to cover an area in SE PA that US Steel spent $50 million constructing Gunnison Homes in Fairless Hills near the steel plant. (at that time Benjamin Fairless was the pres. of US steel and US Steel bought Gunnison Homes)

    The exterior walls aren't 2x3s. The prefab panels would look like 2x4s laid flat in a grid pattern with 1/4' ply skin on each side. The total wall thickness is 2" (if you replace a door assembly, the new door jambs are too wide for the thin walls). The 2x4s extend beyond the top and bottom of the plywood where bolts connect each panel to the slab and ceiling panels. Interior walls are also plywood, originally unpainted.

    The roof panels and ceiling panels are constructed with 2x4s, not laid flat. They are not trusses, but some have added bracing between the roof and ceiling panels. Unless additional insulation was added, you can see the bolt connection of the walls to the ceiling panels.

    You can sometimes find the manufacturer's metal tag in the utility room.

  10. When they opened it up, they found that the wall was 2 bricks thick and that the lintels were I-Beams that went through the entirety of the wall.

    The bond pattern of the brick clearly shows it's 2 wythes. How could anyone that works on masonry buildings not anticipate that the support over openings isn't going to be just under the outer wythe?

  11. A power vent water heater isn't exactly a 'high efficiency' appliance so the vent requirements are a bit different.

    Power Vent terminations should be at least 36" above any 'forced air inlet' within 10'. I think a HRV could be considered a forced air inlet - if that's the intake.

    Power Vent terminations should be at least 4 feet below, 4 feet horizontally from or 1 foot above any door, window or other air inlet.

    I think the louvered vent is for a dryer. Power vent water heaters usually come with a 40-45 degree PVC vent termination with screen insert.

  12. I believe IRC & IPC both state that plastic 'service' piping can only be inside a building for a maximum of 5' feet beyond the point of entry. This is mostly strictly enforced in the areas I cover. It's usually a short run to the meter or HN tank from the point of entry and then switches to piping approved for distribution.

    The service pipe from wells in this area is always HDPE, unless it's really old, then it's galv. steel.

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