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Bill Kibbel

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  1. I'm looking at little photos on my phone and there's a lot of important stuff not shown. I'll just say that my first reaction to each photo was on audible "ouch".
  2. Multi-pin usually turns out to be for a directional antenna with controller for the rotor.
  3. I had a good laugh from the audible reaction.
  4. I think there are a couple manufacturers of systems with air handlers paired with "slim" outdoor units. If you grab the model #s, you can check compatibility. I've found no difference in operation. But, it's more likely for the systems with the slim outdoor units to have inverter tech and some have the hyper heat for really cold climates.
  5. I looked into this about 5+ years ago. The ONLY primary documentation I could find was for the Challenger GFI breakers manufactured during 1988. There were many electrician and home inspector web sites claiming a recall for "unsafe" Challenger panels but not one showed any documentation or link to this statement at the CPSC or any other official source. There were also many posts showing individual panel failures, but no data or other evidence that these panels have more frequent failures than any other recent manufacturers.
  6. Those are connector tubes for wide-set handle faucets. Water supply is connected separately to the hot and the cold faucet handles like any faucet. When a valve is opened, the tubing delivers the water to the W-connector. The tubing from the middle of the W supplies the spout.
  7. I've never heard of that brand - maybe exclusive to home improvement stores? The inverter controlled compressor is variable speed - usually resulting in longer run times. Less on/off cycles should result in less wear. So, I wouldn't be concerned about it running for very long periods. I would be curious however, about why it drops 2-3° below the thermostat setting. I haven't experienced that with correctly sized systems intended for cold climates until they get close to 0-5° ambient. I know Mitsubishi has one that doesn't skip a beat until below -13°.
  8. Hey John, The answers depends solely on whether or not it has the inverter driven compressor. Hope you don't have an economy DIY system. A properly-sized cold climate system shouldn't ever "struggle to keep up". Even down to 5°F. Again, hope you don't have an economy DIY system.
  9. In my experience, many folks are getting incomplete, incorrect or in some cases, intentionally misleading advice about their slate roofs. This usually leads to either non-professional and temporary repairs, costly unnecessary repairs or replacement of a roof that still has many decades of remaining life. I've found many unfairly condemned slate roofs that could likely last another century and sometimes even more. As a home inspector, I feel it's important to accurately and objectively inform my clients about their roof's type, condition, immediate repairs needed and future maintenance. Here's a few of the most important concerns: All slate roofs, no matter the type or age, require regular repairs. As the roof gets older, the frequency or amount of the repairs usually increases. It's most important that homeowners find the right contractor with the right knowledge, skills and tools to make those repairs. Cracked, broken, loose or missing slates need to be regularly replaced. If about a half dozen or less need replacement every year, I'd consider it a typical slate roof in really good condition. The most common attempts at repairs are also the worst. This includes using roofing cement, mastic, adhesive, caulking and even spray-on coatings to patch the surface of gaps that are left exposed when slates have broken or fallen off. These are temporary repairs and it makes it quite difficult to repair it properly later. The individual damaged slates and nails need to be completely removed. It's also important that each replacement slate is very close to the thickness as the rest. The wrong thickness can kick up the slate at adjoining courses, which can then easily break. The technique used to fasten the new replacement slate is also important. Improper “face nailing” involves punching a hole through the exposed section of a perfectly good new slate, driving a nail through the hole to secure it and smearing some temporary goop over the nail. A competent slate roofer usually secures replacement slates with nails that are completely concealed. Another accepted method is to secure the new slate with a thick-gauge wire hook, however a portion of each hook will be visible. Some hooks however, are only thin-gauge sheet metal, often soft copper, that are not rigid enough, unbend and release the replacement slate. Some other issues with slate roofs that can cause ongoing serious leaks are from improper installation. The most common is the incorrect overlap of slates at courses. This is called the headlap. Slate roofs are not waterproof. - they shed water. Inadequate headlap can result in water leaking in through the vertical joints between the slates. For most roofs, the headlap should be a minimum of 3 inches. More headlap is needed for lower slopes and a bit less for very steep slopes. Individual replacement slates must be the same size to maintain this headlap. Some contractors try to justify their improper installation by declaring that headlap is unnecessary because of the presence of asphalt felt paper installed below the slates. That just means they know the installation will fail and the paper below the slates is expected to control the leaks. This brings up the persistent folklore about roofing felt under slate roofs. Some insist that felt paper only lasts 50 years, so the slate roof needs to be replaced at that point. A large majority of the thousands of slate roofs I’ve evaluated are installed on spaced wood lath, where it’s clearly visible no felt paper was used, nor is it necessary – except maybe it eliminates the occasional bit of wind-driven snow that enters between slates. Another issue is improper nailing of slates. If the nail heads are not properly set below the surface of each slate, the protruding nail can pop holes or break the slates in the course above. The slates should have the nail holes punched, from the back, not drilled, to create the proper cone-shaped countersink hole. Inspecting the flashing details of a slate roof isn't much different than other types of shingle, tile or shake roofs as they have the same form and function. Old slate roofs often have the original ferrous metal flashings coated with a lead-tin alloy and later painted. The rest usually have copper. With a majority of slate roof systems, the slates outlast the flashings. With slate, flashing failure isn't the end of the roof system. A competent slate roof contractor can replace those flashings by removing and reinstalling the adjacent slates. These are just a few of the issues with slate roofs. For really detailed information, get the Slate Roof Bible by Expert Joe Jenkins slateroofwarehouse.com/Slate_Bible_3. COMING SOON - Next: Slate Types & Life Expectancy. More stuff about old houses can be found at historicbldgs.com. © 2024 The Inspector's Journal & Bill Kibbel. All Rights Reserved. No written content or images may be reproduced or distributed in any form or stored in a data retrieval system, including datasets used by artificial intelligence.
  10. My preference is to just tell them it needs relacement.
  11. What is the date of the home? With the asphalt spots, it sure looks like one of the Insulite products, but there were many, many brands of fiberboard.
  12. When these first started to appear, I had the chance to discuss them with someone involved in the development and initial trials. At that time, all data (efficiency, sizing guides etc.) were based on these systems having a continuous flow of air at just over 67° supplied to the intake. They're all installed in basements here, without any ducting of exterior air - regardless of the manufacturers' recommendation.
  13. Resealing of the joints between boiler sections with furnace cement isn't unusual, although most service techs won't do that now (they just sell new boilers). In that last picture, it looks like the most recent patching isn't at the seams, but maybe around clean-out covers. I can't tell for sure from the picture. It's excessive patching so I'd be concerned.
  14. "T1-11" is a plywood product. I've heard of some manufactured from OSB, but I've never seen it. There's a type that while the base is plywood, hardboard is laminated to the surface. Some folks refer to hardboard as Masonite. I don't know of any served with waffles. A home built in 1990 in the US is not likely to have asbestos containing building materials.
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