mjr6550

Looks like structural deck pan designed to bond with the concrete and serve as tension reinforcement (in place of rebar).

Structurally, it should not be an issue. Air sealing, insulation, and condensation would be a concern in my area, but maybe not as much in Texas. I would be curious how they install insulation.

Location does make a difference. I'm guessing rural south. In the Philadelphia suburbs in many areas $150,000 to $200,000 could be a good price. Some other areas twice that much could be a good price.

I can't tell from the photos whether there are drainage slots in the steel deck pan. I see something, but that may be dimples to create composite action with the concrete. The few cases where I have seen concrete on deck pan exposed to the whether they have not looked good. Seams like it is easy for water to get in and no so easy to get out. The corrosion at what I assume is the house foundation wall suggests that the deck is not well sealed at the house or does not slope properly. I,m not sure how successful it would be to seal the surface. Maybe a high solids Silane or Siloxane would help. I think there may be a more suitable product for horizontal surfaces, but can't recall now. From the look of those I-beams they may be around far longer than the patio. It could take 30 to 50 years (possibly less) for corrosion to be a structural concern, but rust jacking could cause some damage to the patio. BTW, what is the point of this anyway. High water table?

I see some grading and drainage issues (downspouts, sump pump). Based on the age you are probably looking at replacing the furnace, AC, and roof soon. Could be looking at new windows in the near future also. Expect a wet crawl space and check carefully for rotted floor joists, beams, etc. Looks like a lot of neglect. In short, if the price is not well below the market, it may not be a deal.

It is either an electric doorstop or a baseboard mounted wire extender. ...Or Kibbel will know what it is.

Hard to tell what is is looking at the photos on my phone. Could it be very worn asphalt saturated fiberglass?

Another option may be to insulate the water, tighten up the basement (air infiltration) and put a 5 gallon electric water heater near the bathroom in series with the hot water supply.

In my area you cannot bury organic construction materials. Trees? I don't know. It also generates methane gas as it decays.

I was thinking of tight and we'll insulated. Not real easy or inexpensive, but I would go that way to the extent practical. Floor heat would be a good way to go. Insulation below and at the perimeter would be necessary, but worthwhile anyway. There would be quite a lag between turning on the heat and coming up to temperature, but may not be a big issue if the temperature is not turned down too low and working at 55 to 60 should be fine. Maybe lower with warm feet.

John, I see that the building is not insulated. Do you heat it? When I retire I would like to build a building for my hobbies. I am thinking about the best way (meaning cheapest) way to heat it.

More likely a pinhole in the weld. I would it might need to be repaired or replaced at any time. I'm not sure who would properly evaluate it. Anything you do to clean it up may cause it to leak.

If that does not work out, you may be able to add a section break at the beginning of your document and use the cover page format above the section break. That should retain you cover page format.

What is your background? Any experience in home repairs or remodeling? Are you a detail oriented person. I think some background in repair or remodeling with good observation skills is important. Good writing and communication skills are essential.

Maybe they lived in the trailer while building the house. I can't think of any other reason for doing this.