MPdesign

Please correct me if I am wrong, but it was my understanding that taps cannot be made within a panelboard enclusure - meaning that this is illegal. I, personally, think it is safe in this instance because there is plenty of room; but it is illegal by my understanding.

I always worry about framing with screws in my own work because of expansion and contraction - and the number of screws that break because of too much force applied. It seems to me to be a bad move. One good building settle, the screws break, and there can be failure. Anyway, I concur that in the US, surface or flush mount is OK per code. It is standard for panels to flush mounted for residences. Commercial panels are typically surface mounted. There is no telling what any particular engineer will spec for a certain building though. He can spec flush or surface mounted as he desires.

What's your opinion of these in-use old panels. Most are Walker Electric Company (WECO) Atlanta. Yes, all are in use. I have seen not this type of GE main disconnect before. Any input there would be appreciated. All are circa 1950. This was a world class high strength long life facility when it was built (built to withstand bombs and has vault to secure the president if he is in town when and if we were bombed while he was here) I already know how I am handling it all; but a second set of eyes and the experience of others never hurts. Besides - this is fun stuff - very rare Click to Enlarge 29.85 KB Click to Enlarge 27.89 KB Click to Enlarge 27.52 KB Click to Enlarge 24.3 KB Click to Enlarge 25.95 KB Click to Enlarge 32.52 KB Click to Enlarge 34.39 KB Click to Enlarge 27.15 KB Click to Enlarge 29.25 KB Click to Enlarge 35.96 KB Click to Enlarge 32.6 KB Click to Enlarge 24.72 KB Click to Enlarge 26.8 KB Click to Enlarge 29.24 KB Click to Enlarge 28.4 KB Click to Enlarge 30.5 KB Click to Enlarge 30.21 KB Click to Enlarge 26.06 KB Click to Enlarge 26.06 KB Click to Enlarge 30.18 KB Click to Enlarge 30.18 KB

Single ply membrane it is - for now. I will start looking at flashing boots for TPO and seams for DO! Thank you gentlemen.

So, I am thinking this is TPO because: whiter than off-white doesn't look cemented looks like clean seams correct? Click to Enlarge 37.86 KB Click to Enlarge 27.51 KB

TPO and EPDM | How to visually tell the difference? Can someone please answer this and maybe post pictures? [?[^] THANK YOU!!!!!

By the way Hausdok, what frame is that in your avatar? My bet is 1950s frame with 350 Chevy upgrade.

Crawlspace

I inspected a renovated 1950s home. Original flooring was just one layer of tongue and groove flooring. Remodeler replaced the floor boards with 3/4" ply but placed a layer of plastic vapor barrier on the top of the floor joists and lapped up plaster walls behind the baseboard to reduce infiltration because of the single floor layer. Is there any problems that can come about because of this that I should note to the homeowner? [:-dunce]

Guys, I will be inspecting an underfloor radiant heat system tomorrow. What have you guys seen in the past that are probable problems.

But I like you guys.

I am looking schools with steam (and some hot water) boilers. What are some examples of good boiler control panels for schools (such as heat timer) and what are the pros and cons? Most that I see are bypassed. Most are controlled just by outdoor air sensor.

I have. Thanks Terry. I am more on the "pre-funding" side right now so I am just pointing in the right directions right now. Not planning actual installation solutions.

Thanks Terry, I am trying to get a general gameplan together for "Direction" for many schools. I cannot determine direction until I figure out what they had to begin with - and how it was "supposed" to work back then. Then I can try to figure out what to do now. I like to hope that the original designers had designed a system that worked back then. Many times, they did know what they were doing (more so than many today) and designers today throw it away. Of course, I do realize that fresh air requirements weren't quite as stringent. I am very familiar with demand control ventilation (CO sensor) and it is definitely the way to go - I was just "fishin" to see if you knew of a successful way to put it in the unit. I have heard of it being done but I am not too sold on it working properly. I have heard bad reports.

Terry, Do the CO detectors go inside the univent or remote mount (typically)? This is for a school - and yes the coils can freeze. Ok. So manual dampers were likely never used because of outside air freezing issues. This makes sense. So typically it would seem that my 1967 typical school univent up north with currently abandoned pneumatics, was originally probably controlled with a timer on the building pneumatics working in conjunction with boiler... Does that sound correct to you guys.

Considering a unit ventilator with a fresh air damper. I assume that in some locations, these would be set to a certain opening to match the design number of people for the space and then left in that setting. Is this correct or are they all variable past that point with pneumatics or electrically operated controls? Thanks guys![:-wiltel]

I understand that goodman makes Amana just like I understand that American Standard manufactures Trane and I understand that Toyota makes Lexus. But just because Toyota makes Lexesm does not mean that it is the same engine nor the same finish quality. Is there a real difference in Amana and Goodman as there is in Lexus and Toyota? I would think that there is because they have to cover a longer warranty. It seems almost everyone has to sell a "Piece of Cr@p" model because the general person out there will only buy the cheapest. It is just a fact of life.

If you have new windows and are no longer using incandescent lamps, and now have your exterior house/envelope sealed and insulated better than when the prior furnace was installed, then *proper* downsizing will yield energy savings. Please keep in mind that *proper* sizing is not usually done. You should also keep in mind that you are not only getting a new furnace if that is installed. You are also getting a new control system also. This means that if there a problem, the contractor is responsible for all of it and not just the coil. If there is freezing or another problem, he has to fix it - he cannot blame your old furnace nor your old control system. If you don't have the money, then that is different case. My wife, for example, can preach to me all day that our friends new house that is 4 times as large uses about 2/3 the energy as ours - but she isn't getting a new house even if was a good idea!

What furnace manufacturer would you not use based upon track record. Furnace only not including condensing units.

I realize that it should be replaced. My reasoning (which I am trying to ferret out) is that the unit will never be replaced and the best bet is to get some stimulus funds to retrofit it. My thought is to request funds for thermostat & retrofit in one line (that may get funded) and ask for a new unit in a separate line (that has not been funded in 40 years) - so hopefully they will at least do something. It is definitely like rebuilding a window unit. I have been looking all over for pricing on a good new unit ventilator with very little success. I assume that I can get one for about $1k + install, controls, etc - is that correct?

Unit Ventilator Thermostat I am looking at many old classroom unit ventilators. These are basically a cabinet style fan/coil with outside air vent - usually pneumatic with a single water coil used for heating in the summer and cooling in the winter. At least half the pneumatics don't work. Most of the fan motors are controlled from the breaker or from a toggle switch if lucky. The units are typically 1970. Is there some reason that I am completely overlooking why they cannot: 1) replace the pneumatic with electrical to control outside air vent 2) replace the pneumatic with electrical to water flow 3) Add Setback thermostat (that will also close outside air at night) I know that they should just replace everything - but that hasn't happened since 1970. That will be recommended. I am aware that any thermostat is problematic around students. I am talking about basic mechanical problems. Any idea what it would cost to replace the pneumatics on the unit with electrical (assuming they completed about 40 at a time)? Thank you all again and Merry Christmas.

May also be cathodic protection (if cadwelded) to the piping!?!

Very good info. Thank you! I will check. I wondered why you needed to ground wire when 90% of the pipe was metal - and buried underground (i.e. already at ground potential). I assume that if what you are saying is what I am seeing, then there will be no clamp to hold the wire to the pipe - and when I dig around a bit, there will be no rod. Thanks again!

Gentleman, I have found the doc (I think) that anyone would want to read/ reference on the subject of natural gas distribution on a site such as a campus where the owner maintains it all. Link

Yes, I am aware that I am ignorant. hehe I am very aware of electrical grounding systems for buildings. I am very aware of bonding the grounding system on buildings to incoming water pipes as well as bonding to lightning protection systems, etc. I am not aware of how this pertains to site distribution or natural gas in particular. The reason that I mention that is because I am aware of *several* locations where the natural gas piping exits the ground for a 2 foot span and then goes back into the ground. These locations are connected to ground leads and ground rods (not a building grounding triangle - just out *open* on the site). I assume that these keep the potential difference between the pipe and the ground constant to stop any potential arcs. Most of these ground wires are cut from lawn cutting services. That is why I ask.