energy star

The 90 on the exhaust is not even new, you can see the old pipe inside that must have been a mistake from another job. Post a pic of the new furnace installed. We may be able to comment and help you on that. Is this a townhouse or condo? Post the installation instructions. 10 to 1 that the flap is wrong in the fresh air intake (far right) that looks like a dryer vent. The damper must work opposite of a dryer vent or least be pulled out.

Intake is to low. Is this not like one of the latest greatest furnaces being marketed right now? With that said, that picture is no competent display of craftsmanship. I bet you payed big money for that new furnace. I'd be on the phone to him, York and everyone else. I love how close the fresh air intake is to the furnace exhaust. If you emailed that pic to York, I bet you would get a call within two hours, and that dealer would put his York dealer ship on the line. You deserve better. Get help and stop payment on the check or better yet maybe you paid with cc, Cedit card company will get the funds back and hold them.

yep.

Wish I could see the manual. -4°F Current: Mostly Cloudy Wind: N at 3 mph Humidity: 69% Current Conditions in Regina -6°F / -21°C Feels like *°F / *°C Wind: NW at 3 mph / 5 kh Humidity: 66% Pressure: 29.76 inches / 1008 mb Sunrise: 8:58 AM Sunset: 5:13 PM Conditions updated at Wed, 07 Jan 2009 7:00 pm CST This is the weather right there, right now.

I understand all that. But the fact is, the pipe is dripping.

How well are the pipes sealed to the outside? If you have a full basement and the temp is 60 degrees in that basement, I really don't care all that much what is around it. Taking air that is -40 outside and immediately sucking into a space that is 60 degrees (or even lower) that pipe is going to produce water. Cold ALWAYS produces water (condesate) ON THE WARM SIDE. Try this, go grab a nice cold can of soda out of the fridge, and set it on the kitchen table. Wait a few and watch water droplets appear on the outside of the can and drip down on the table. Just like that cold intake pipe passing through the warmer basement. Or, go out into your shop and grab a PVC fitting, toss it in the freezer (that’s typically zero F) let it stay in there 15 minutes, take it out set it on the table, you will see tiny droplets of water appear, again just like your pipe dripping on the floor. You may even have a leak around the wall penetrations. I would hope not at those temps. Sometimes with an oil burner that’s a direct vent, with an intake pipe for combustion air going directly to the burner will cause it to shut down because of the extreme delta T. Insulating that pipe will solve the problem. -40 degrees going into 60 degrees is going to cause some condensate on the pipe, and then drip on the basement floor. just my .02

Jim Katen, Do you hand over a field report or do go back to the office for that and mail it in along with the invoice?

.... for reference -40C = -40f -Brad Yes. I know. To cold for me.

Take a pic for us. Insulate the pipe.

I was going to ask how most carry the tools, but I thought that was a bit over the top. I'm please to see the way you answered my post. I would say from that list, I would feel very comfortable having you in my home to inspect. Very nice. BTW, That is a killer flashlight.

-40c?

Dave did you try my suggestion?

What is the temp of the area where the condensation is occuring? What is the temp outside? Basement temp? Is basement conditioned?

I'm interested in everything. But it's not big deal. How long do you spend on an inspection? 3hrs?

Yes I thought it passed through an unconditioned space. He also needs to seal the vent penetration better, capillary action.

The link I posted is a nice set-up. At that temp, I would move! if infact that is the correct temp (-40) he stated, it does need to be insulated.

You have a good point. But insulating is in the instructions.

Visit the local community college bookstore.

No prob

Yes, insulate. It should be the exhaust that produces the most condensate. That is the one that should be insulated. Make sure it is pitched towards the furnace. (Towards)

well, you should have been left an instruction booklet? But when PVC venting started to take hold the kit was basically just a PVC 90 on each pipe. One turned down and on turned up with a 90 on it. Now everyone uses a concentric type. http://www.htproducts.com/literature/lp-166.pdf

The exhaust pipe may have to be insulated. The intake pipe should not freeze. They should have a termination kit on them.

What do you bring to an inspection as far as tools go? Please lets leave our infrared cameras. I only ask, Because I can make some suggestions to help you. But first I have to understand how you are evaluating the system now.

Post #9 second pic. A great example of heat loss through sheetrock.

Bain, post the link.