energy star

Is this the correct sequence for the system? Thermostat calls for heat. Zone valve opens. Circulates water. Water coming back to boiler becomes cool, burner fires to warm water. Continues to circulate. Thermostat satisfied, all shut down. If by design you have two wires coming from each stat back to the controller, remove each stat one by one at controller and jump it out , to see if the burner will fire once the water needs to be heated. I don't think it's the boiler because it comes on for zone one, so I think it's what Jim Katen said, control wire or a bad controller. You may be able to switch the wires on the controller to work a zone that is not functioning now, this will allow you to have heat in the living area or bedroom tonight. ps: Its my understanding from your post that one zone functions fine. Is this correct?

Ok, I'm off this topic. It's non-friable. You can make anything friable if you smash it enough. Also, it's a small amount. You would wet it with water. Have a nice day.

Illustrating my knowledge of old limestone masonry.

Power-wash completely and then buy this. http://www.capcityequipment.com/grout1899.html

I'm starting a forum, wish I knew how to do that.

telekinesis?

Will all said material fill a small coffee can? I would just wet and remove.

Wow thats a nice pic of the gable end of the house. Look at that loss! Does it have a Gable vent? You can see a perfect outline of the scissor trusses.. You also have a de-super heater on that Geo system, nice. Also you need to check the flow rate at the equipment. It may need to be balanced (water balanced) rate. You can see on the valve or rather the water connection to the unit that the connection body has two access ports where you stick a water pressure meter. All this data will assist in proper set-up.

I would have the builder replace them all.

No. You have to also see how the land is zoned. My building was industrial. I could have a manufacturing company, fabrication shop or an office building. But if your zoned commercial you may only be able to have a retail or an office building. In my area, my zone was the best because I could do whatever I wanted. You can downgrade the property but not upgrade without going before the zoning commission.

Shorten the flue two feet and the problem will go away. Thats my guess from this limited info. Get back to us and tell us what the tech said. The only condition that changes (fluctuates) is the out side air , WIND. As posted above when the wind picks up and the location of the flue in relationship to the top of the roof create an effect that wind is throwing air down the flue. When the wind is less than the 30 mph gusts as you said, the terminal throw (sorta) is dissipated by other wind currents, it loses it's strength. So my guess is that the flue is cut in to close to the peak or the flue is too high..

Commercial could be an office or a retail store. Industrial would be a manufacturing company or a factory.

Explain it? Sure. Water will freeze at 32. If they are extracting all the heat from the water so the temp drops below, they need to have Glycol or (like anti freeze) to keep the water from freezing when it gets below 32.

They will have plenty of water in the attic.

I bet thats five or six feet in the air. 12/10 pitch?

Water mixture is wrong or refrigerant charge is incorrect. Did the same contractor do the loop and the unit? Needs to look at the water mixture.

I wanted to ask the roof pitch, but I did not. He may not know.

Wow, That baby is really up there, and what is against the other flue? Shorten that thing a bit. It is 6" B-Vent (flue Diameter)

outside.

Could you post a pic of the flue vented out the roof?

I have paid to have numerous tests done. In fact I bought two 13,000 sq buildings one loaded with asbestos hard board. The only way to release it, is to cut it. Just wet it and remove it. If you want to be absolutely certain. That aside the product we are looking at in the pic is so small it is fine for the homeowner to remove. The rules, I'm familiar with them. Heres one. ASBESTOS-CEMENT PRODUCTS Asbestos-cement products (such as transite) are commonly used for duct insulation, pipes, and siding. Being a Category II nonfriable ACM, asbestos-cement products need to be removed prior to demolition if they have a high probability of becoming crumbled, pulverized, or reduced to powder during demolition activities. EPA believes that most demolition activities will subject such Category II nonfriable ACM to the regulation. Whether asbestos-cement products are subject to the asbestos NESHAP should be determined by the owner or operator on a case-by-case basis based on the demolition techniques to be used. In general, if contractors carefully remove asbestos-cement materials using tools that do not cause significant damage, the materials are not considered RACM and can be disposed of with other construction debris. However, if demolition is accomplished through the use of cranes (equipped with wrecking balls, clamshells or buckets), hydraulic excavators, or implosion/explosion techniques, asbestos-cement products will be crumbled, pulverized or reduced to powder, and are subject to the provisions of the asbestos NESHAP. Some demolition contractors do not treat significantly damaged asbestos-cement products as RACM; they mix it with other demolition debris and dispose of it in direct violation of the waste-disposal provisions of the asbestos NESHAP

I would remove it myself. It is Non-friable so no particles will move into the air.

I put seven of them in one house with two oil fired boilers. All were manufactured by the First Co. It's not that the quality is sub-par, just something about the finished product that makes them not to appealing. (to me)

never get one.

Put a thermometer in the supply plenum. If you have floor registers take 3-4 covers off. Then turn the system on and see if it runs longer.