Rocon

Hard to tell it could be one of any of the options above including air leakage. Being a production faculty there could be humid air leaking from the building into the wall cavities.

Here is an example of what worked OK but i would not recommend in your climate. You could use sketch 1 as a starting point. Click to Enlarge 50.5 KB

Kurt's sugestion is sound, it is most likely clean now. You could run a second wash with a strong sollution of vinegar to try to eliminate the staining.

Properly prepared the Acrodry S Base Coat would work over CMU. The main use of the S product is to adhere EPS foam to the CMU. It can also be used as a parge coat to smooth a CMU or Concrete surface. The Acrodry Base Coat is for EIFS installations, particularly over (bonded to) the XPS foam. Verify the product type before committing to an opinion. Contact BASF for an area rep to look at the installation. Your district sales manager is: Ken Butler P: 972-215-8525

The IRC does not apply you are in a multi-family unit that was most likely built under the CBC (California Building Code), and the CPC (California Plumbing Code). I know it was commonplace in multi-family units before 2004 (could still be) in the city of Los Angeles to allow this. I realize that LA is not your jurisdiction but generally, if it flies in LA then it flies in Pasadena. As far as hazards go if you are getting fumes from a condensate line there is a bigger problem somewhere since the condensate tray below the coils are in the conditioned air stream of your air handler. I do know the downside of this setup is that if there is a condensate ejector pump or a low spot in the condensation line you will hear gurgling when the condensate gets enough head pressure to discharge into the tailpiece.

Only addressing the finish it appears to be a sand float finish not a smooth finish.

XN View for windows works well. You might try the Mac version here: http://xnview.en.softonic.com/mac

Section 5.5 http://www.icc-es.org/reports/pdf_files ... R-1387.pdf

Was it on a W-deck? Is there a polyiso insulation layer below the membrane? Does the blistering only occur at the edges of the ponding water? How long does the water pond on the roof or when was your last rain? Typically one of two things is going on: 1. The coating was in direct sunlight when it was applied. This causes the surface to skin off early. The trapped volatiles work their way out of the material and cause the blistering. 2. There is water trapped in the roof assembly. This usually causes a larger blister so it is less likely to manifest like the photos you have.

Stephen, Is that corner of the tub on an outside wall? I have seen thermal anomalies similar to that where there was an air leak or thermal bridge. I use an inductive moisture meter on tile areas such as that. It is not as accurate as using the meter over wood however by checking several places on a tile surface you can detect elevated moisture. Of course, you must take into consideration wire mesh or hot mop shower pans as they give false elevated readings. Ramon

What about those growies in the second photo. I see alot of damage below planters on balconies. If the planters leak behind the siding..... Do you have an establishing shot of the side of the building?

Tom, You have a good idea that does fix the issue at hand. Given enough clearance it should work. As far as the box itself they are usually earlier than pre-wrapping (with GWB) can lights in fire rated floors.

You could drop one of these boxes over the can light from the attic. http://www.ezbarrier.net/one-hour-fire- ... sed-light/

In discussions with the roofers, you could mention that it is funny that "drip? is not typically used regarding snow. Therefore, why would the presence of snow relate to the drip edge flashing? WA clearly has rain, which is very ?drippy?. I have a 1980 ARMA manual requiring drip edge. Regards

Where is the edge metal?