RobC

If the valve is a single lever Moen valve ...then it's all wrong The valve is missing support, a 2x4 on the flat flush with the backside of the wall framing will usually work out well with 1/2" wallboard and wall tiles. This is most critical with PEX lines as they don't provide much support as copper would. The 'rough-in' template (white opaque plastic disk in front of the valve against the wallboard) should have been installed flush with the FINISHED wall. This plate is a guide in locating the valve body and protects the rough-in from construction damage, it's thrown away by the finish plumber. I'm thinking the valve is too far inside the wall for the lever to shut off the water ... Are the two lines running inside the exterior wall?

The toilet flange looks like it was built to last. Is it lead, and would it be soldered to the copper pipe? Click to Enlarge 48.37 KB Yes, it's lead and it can easily be damaged with a toilet auger if used incorrectly.

Thank you for all your replies.

That's interesting, I didn't expect NO as an answer. What I'm getting is that missing door stops are reported, without them the wall could get damaged by the lockset. A good door stop could run you a buck and a half and take a few minutes to install but on the other hand accessories could run you hundreds of dollars depending on quality. So I have to ask - why mention the dollar stuff and omit the expensive items? Now, I'm curious to know, what else you guys/gals NOT report? For example, do you report missing window/door bug screens, a gas clothes dryer, domestic water temperature?

list missing shower rod, towel bars/rings, TP holders, door stops etc. I buy everything except the stops at the plumbing wholesaler so they fall under the plumbing section BUT the plumber seldom if ever installs them, it's the finish carpenter's job. Would you report it under: 1. Plumbing - Fixtures or 2. Interior - Walls or 3. Somewhere else

Propane vehicles are not allowed in underground parking - LP flows downhill.

I had a similar situation years ago with an LP rated furnace installed in a garage hooked up to natural gas. I was told by the gas authority that the calorific values of LP is 2.5 times that of natural gas (LP burns hotter). So a gas appliance on LP will over-fire that could result in an explosion. Conversely, an LP appliance on natural gas will under-fire. You might want to contact your AHJ for their ruling on thsi. I wouldn't be surprised if they demand the appliance be replaced.

Thanks Bill, I thought you were going to call me out on the breakfast cereal. [:-slaphap I forgot the word sponge next to metal. I see more Frosted flake than corn flake siding around here. It's always nailed too tight. We had to give it up the kids were eating us out of house and home. []

Thanks Bill, I thought you were going to call me out on the breakfast cereal. [:-slaphap I forgot the word sponge next to metal.

Red Green would be proud.[:-taped] If I'm reading you correctly, you can see bare plywood behind the cladding and some insulation. That tells me you are missing a drainage plane or weather resistive barrier (WRB) such as building paper or HouseWrap (Tyvek/Typar) There are folks that specialize in building technology and have written volumes on the subject so I'll try to simplify things the best I can. Your wall should have three basic elements: 1. A material against the sheathing to allow for vapor to escape out of the building and prevent water from wetting the sheathing. The majority of builders use Tyvek, I like building paper. 2. Something to direct the water away from the building face. Flashing comes in all shapes and sizes, they are mostly made of aluminum or galvanized steel. 3. A cladding to resist the weather like snow, rain, hail, wind etc. That can be anything- stone, wood, plastic, metal, Corn Flakes. No.1 and 2 are most important, they drain away water that's managed to infiltrate behind the siding and trim. And that's by design, we know the vinyl siding will leak, take a close look at the bottom of the sheets, those holes are there for a reason. The basic function of the siding (cladding) is to protect No. 1 from mechanical damage and ultraviolet deterioration. No. 1 and 2 are most critical and they must be correctly installed and protected. If you can see bare and unprotected sheathing and insulation then No. 1 is missing and by all appearances No.2 is also missing at the most critical location, the top of the window. I would remove the siding and possibly the window, correct the WRB and add flashing at both the window opening (pan flashing) and top of window (head flashing). Anytime you have a horizontal break or difference in material a head flashing is required at the transition. In this case you need a head flashing on top of the 'band'. Hope this helps.

Would it be possible to get several close ups of the top left corner of the window. Your link is hiding behind your photo.

Here is a first for me I thought you might like Download Attachment: HeatingRegisterMain1 (Medium).jpg 62.06 KB Download Attachment: HeatingRegisterEnsuite (Medium).jpg 49.18 KB I shut down the furnace when it reached 221F and showed no signs of stopping. Didn't want to loose my plastic thermometer. [:-graduat Makes one wonder at what temperature plastic registers melt?

Cracked tiles are not an engineering matter. As previously said "They're either broke or they're not." Consult a competent tile roofer to make the necessary repairs then follow up next Spring.

The crew might find more fractured tiles as they walk the roof so I wouldn't worry about 'invisible' hairline cracks. I'd replace the damaged tiles this year and revisit the roof next Spring. Over the winter, the weight of the snow and frost action will reveal anything you missed this year.

If the radiant system is PolyB tubing, I would suggest you look for another home. Nother thing, don't blame yourself for scheduling your last minute inspection..reeltours and their inspection team like it that way. Next time consult an independent inspector who will work for you and not the reeltur. Good Luck,