jgclancy

Maybe some sort of tinting.Automotive car window tinting might work too. If it's just one window ask them to put some sort of roll down awning on the outside of the window. If they say no then maybe a nice, decorative lattice work at your house. Just some ideas. Neighbor wars are never the way to go. Jim C.

It wouldn't hurt if you can go on roof and look down the inside of the vent with a light. Possibly see where the corrosion begins or if something is blocking the flue. I've seen things inside vents on occasion. Finding where that corrosion starts inside the flue venting is what I'd try to find first.It's usually not too hard to disconnect joints and look inside if not tape sealed. Jim C.

I agree with Chad's assessment. He probably lost the alignment since the valley doesn't look like a true 45 degrees. The angle cut on the shingles from the new roof section is different. The line will always creep with this type of cutting. Jim C.

I also wish to stress that local codes throughout the USA vary immensely with regard to underlayment. In reality, felt underlayment is not a moisture barrier in regards to manufacturers warranty. Felt under shingles is not considered a moisture barrier.Felt can be a temporary moisture barrier, if secured properly, before the application of shingles. Once shingles are applied the felt is no longer a moisture barrier. Jim C.

On below a 4/12 pitch roof it is not irrelevant.Felt paper should NEVER be used. It should be all Ice Shield then shingles for 3/12 and 2/12. Personally, I think below 4/12 should have not use shingles but it is allowed. Think of it this way. You put down felt paper and then put four nails per shingle through the paper. Holes are everywhere. If shingles fail paper is full of holes and not going to help much.Felt paper on a roof is not a moisture barrier-period. On shallow roofs the problem becomes less of shingle failure but rather water creep up under shingles via ice and frost.Especially, near the eaves and in valleys. If Ice Shield is used on shallow roofs it will seal all nails and act as a moisture barrier. Hence, on any pitch using Ice Shield ifor the whole roof is a great idea. I can see where my wording indicating that what to do on less than 4/12 pitch roofs wasn't clear. Sorry. Jim C.

I'll toss in my two bits here which most won't like. On a roof with a 4/12 pitch or higher the felt underlayment is irrelevant. Roof felt underlayment should NOT be considered a water barrier. It's only real purpose is to make the installation and removal of roofing shingles easier. It should NOT be relied upon as a water barrier. Either from above or below. The shingles above are designed to keep moisture out. If they fail the felt is not to be relied upon to keep moisture out-period. If there is a moisture problem from below then there is a venting imbalance which needs to be addressed. Local codes may state it is necessary. Using manufacturer specifications would state otherwise but if an inspector demands it then it's best to just go along. You could fight the machine but .... Jim C. P.S.- Personally, I not only install an underlayment but in many cases put the Grace Shield on the whole roof not just the first few feet. It costs more but it is fantastic and I know in 20-30 years the roof will be just fine.

Thanks PA. I knew the rule existed but I just couldn't remember exactly where. A new debate arose when I asked an electrician about this problem. If we just remove the ceiling panel and leave that panel open for direct access to the receptacle is the cord still going through the ceiling as whole. I have to admit I don't recall seeing a drop ceiling in any other garage.Receptacle is almost always at ceiling height right next to opener. Jim C.

I wonder if Tom is asking if there needs to be separate GFCI protected receptacle in the room with just the toilet? I've seen houses that have different bathrooms with all outlets on one circuit and only one GFCI for all of them. They do this when they start to run out of room for circuits in the panel. Technically, just a different design which is poor workmanship(in my opinion). Jim c.

It is not unsafe but I would still call it wrong and change it.I've seen electricians do lots of things that worked but I would still say they were wrong i.e.- not the standard. ( Distribution panels always come to mind)In this case there is no good reason to leave it wired the way it is now. Assuming it's all on one breaker. It is a confused mess and unnecessary. He is changing them out . He should use the standard electrical way of wiring them. It will also save him from buying another gfci. Those pennies add up over a lifetime of house maintenance. If any electrician tried to wire it the old way at your house would you say, " Hey, why not, it's pointless, going to cost me more and add needless ,confusing wiring but what the heck--go ahead." My brother once needed a new ceiling fan put in his house. The box had multiple switches and a nightmare of wiring. It worked but took a while to figure it out. I just disconnected it and rewired it correctly so it was standard. I had a few wirenuts and lots of small pieces of wire on the floor when I was done. Just me maybe......lots of people would just hook it back the same I'm sure. Jim C.

If both receptacles are on the same breaker circuit the odd wiring is probably due to older worries about GFCI's.They probably thought it better to have GFCI's independently at each spot and didn't believe that one GFCI at the beginning of the circuit would trip do the job. I can't guess how many times I've explained to people the concept of how GFCI's work. Jim c.

This should be posted at a website for electricians like the theelectricalguru.com or similar. I'll tell you what I'd do though. 1) Get a tester for checking wires. 2) Shut off breaker and make sure both outlets are off with tester If both outlets on one breaker then do the following. 3) Remove both GFCI and remove all pigtails to find out which wires are hot. Most likely one set in Box 1 and other set just connects to Box 2. 4) Once this is determined hook up hot wire set to Line and other set to load. 5) Box 2 just needs a regular receptacle but you could use GFCI. I wouldn't. If it's a 20 amp GFCI like the bathroom should be then use it on a 20 amp garage circuit which probably needs it. 6) If outlets are on different breakers you'll have to figure out where they all connect .....good luck...and always use a tester! jim c.

Here in Minnesota not only is the underlayment needed but there is also the requirement ( I won't go into the exact math) that the first several feet is Rain & Ice Shield. They even have it written on the work permit that has to be displayed in the window. Jim C.

Thanks for the actual Code citings Jim K. I remembered generally where they were but not the exact numbers and didn't want to give incorrect information. Now, to be clear, i think the transformer should never be in the cabinet and when mounted outside should be protected from the exposed terminals. I feel any electric shock is dangerous and can affect the heart. Almost every transformer in a cabinet is usually just sitting inside with wires going every which way and unlabeled. HI's can note them as incorrect just about every time they see one in there. As far as what is listed on a panel. So many old panels do not have that information and other times it's incomplete. To be pedantic, I can use wire nuts in a cabinet but I've never seen them actually listed on a panel. Jim C.

It's a debatable point.Nothing directly against transformers in the cabinet. If Class-2 wires are correctly rated and kept the correct distance ( I think 1/4 " ) from the higher voltage wires in the cabinet it's okay. Usually, they are not and usually you can't know the rating of the wires.A lot of times they are double taped and wires not desgnated for voltage. It's not a good idea due to the hazards of overheating or the possibility of the two types of wiring touching and sending the wrong voltage through doorbell wiring. The safest way would be to have it next to the cabinet in a box that keeps anyone from touching the exposed terminals. Not illegal but just not a good idea to have it in the panel. Jim C. Jim C.

Here's an online article about 25 code changes for NEC 2008 which includes the multiwire branch circuit issue. http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_code_changes_13/ Jim C.

I don't see it as particularly dangerous but in the back of my mind I recall the idea that an appliance wire can't go through a ceiling. I'd have to have it flush with the dropped ceiling. I assume I'd have to use a piece of wood and attach outlet to that so it's not floating. I just wanted to be sure and wondered what the specific NEC rule was. Always like to have the exact reason so if anyone comes up with it...thanks Jim C.

I have a garage with a dropped ceiling installed. The outlet for the garage door opener is above the dropped ceiling attached to the rafter.It is close for cord to reach. Can the outlet be located where it is or should it be at the height of the dropped ceiling and visible?What does NEC code say about this outlet location? Jim C.