J Howland

Kurt, I think Mike is right. My two cents is if there isn't a air leakage to the outside and a duct air leakage to the outside testing on this home and add to your manual J, one would only guessing. John

I like the part about create enough negative indoor pressure to make gas-fired appliances back-drafting and then we can change the temperature of in attic space and creating dew point temperature on surfaces, leading to mold issue. I think these are worst case scenario, but two things that I would not want to do to any home. Test in and test out. John

Great link, I think Paul Fisette hit that one on the head John

The link to Paul Fisette is not working any more. John

He said it desalinated water too, nice appliance.

Here in MO we have a R-38 to R-45 in our codes depending on where you live. If you go from a R-11 to R-38 you will see a 14% savings in your heating and cooling bills. Check with your local utility provider to see if there incentives for upgrades to your home

Upgrade to a air source heat pump and 90% back-up unit can save 22% on energy bills. There are many reasons for this. One is the utility company will reduce the rate that they charge you for electric if you install one. They can switch you to your back up gas unit during peck load times, this saves every one money. Lots of other incentives, from rebates to tax credits. These units only work well in a energy efficient home.

I have just started doing home energy audits. IR camera is recommended $3,000.00 to $12,000.00. Blower Door kit, gas and CO analyser, software, and other things about $4,300.00 BPI. Training and certification is $1,200.00 last I looked, and a week out of town for classes/certification. That comes to over $10,000.00 no mater how you cut it. A lot of new tax credit coming up for home owner in 2009 from Feds. https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c= ... credits#s2

Hi I have just started doing home energy audits with Energy Star I charge $250.00 to $500.00. I am in the home at least 4 hours and do a follow up test after work has been done. IR camera is recommended $3,000.00 to $12,000.00. Blower Door kit, gas and Co analyser, software, and other things about $4,300.00. BPI training and certification is $1,200.00 last I looked, and a week out of town for classes. The test/certification is harder than I though it would be. That comes to over $10,000.00 no mater how you cut it. I don’t think you can do an energy audit with a large fan a smoke stick and stand behind it, although I may have thought that at first too. I give the client a est. on heating and cooling energy savings over a year, if they do the recommended work. We also give help with energy tax credit and rebates. A lot of new tax credit coming up in 2009 from Feds. https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c= ... credits#s2

Pardon my butting in, but let me gently suggest that you look up the definition of the word, "symbiotic." It doesn't apply to inanimate objects (houses). Humans don't have symbiotic relationships with houses. Hint: the "bio" part is a giveaway. Just doing my little part to remind HIs that we need to be as careful with words as we are with, say, ladders. WJid="blue"> Parts of my house are made from biomass. My point was, that we can make a difference in peoples health if we look at our clients in a symbiotic relationship with their environment, and not use blanketing statement about their homes and there parts. I do appreciate the use of this forum and the kindness of those who use it. I have learned much and hope to have a good relationship with all. John,

Hi, New in here, Each home environment is in an environment and unique to its own environment. What I mean is each house is in a symbiotic relationship with its environment, just as we are in a symbiotic relationship with our homes. We can't make blanket statement about venting a home. We can recommend workable systems, if we look at our homes and there environments, and this site proves that. Quote: I'd plant my feet, square up, feint left, & hit the statement w/a solid right hook. I can tell you guys are serious about venting. And I would hold that statement down, so we can kick it around. Just want to let you guys know what side I am on here. The health of the nation is in our hands. An old plumber told me that once as we were wrestling a snake out a sewer line. John, http://web.mac.com/howlandwoodworks1/iWeb

If you could get your hands on a infrared camera (cost around $6,000) you would see one of the reasons why the high bidder wants to remove the old insulation. There could be, well there are unintended holes in your ceiling plane allowing warm air and moisture to enter into the attic, hence ice dams and other problems. A blower door test would also help determine how much air is leaking through unintended holes in the building envelop. If you tighten up the homes envelop/shell make sure you have your CAZ (combustion appliance zone) checked for negative pressure. This can cause natural draft appliance to spill CO into the home.

I am new to Forums and posting on them. I will edit my post a little closer in the further and read the whole string before posting. I think Chad Fabry is right about the noble metals. I have also seen solider flux that was not whipped off, do something similar in unconditioned spaces.

It look like the bracket was solder to the pipe. The bracket is steel with a copper or brass coating. After bending the wire around pipe and heating it up could have damaged the copper of brass coating on wire bracket, allow a reaction between the two metals. The pipe must have condensation collecting on it for years, you can see the rust on wire bracket.

I was talking to my Dad about a DC lighting system that they had when he was a boy, he is now 88. They had a lighting system that ran off a wind generator on the roof of house in Missouri, it had three DC lights, I guess a regulator, and a lead acid battery. He said that there were other hydro DC systems around mills springs dams in the 20s.