Speedy Petey

Well, that's a shame. Like I said already, I NEVER said anything like "ALL of you moron inspectors". You need to get over the fact that I merely expressed an opinion based on personal experience. It's a shame you took it personally. If you do not fit into my opinion you should not be upset, but obviously you are, which is a shame because I get the impression you do not fit it. And call me all the names you want. I just don't think it's prudent to use one's real name on internet message boards. Obviously it is advantageous for you guys since you are linking to your businesses and trying to get your name out there, so for you maybe it makes sense. I am trying to stay civil here but I can see some of you would like to make this more than it needs to be.

NEC 300.3(B) applies here:

HAHAHA, I knew I'd get flamed for that. "My pathetic little world"...that one was FUNNY! I guess most of the HI's in my area don't come to this site so they are not up to the high standards of you guys. And to all you guys looking for actual "proof" or "valid research", how the hell would I have actual proof??? I NEVER implied that. The proof I mentioned was my own proof. I was pretty clear of this. Would you like me to acquire the reports I see and then do my own report on what I see missed?? OK, next time I'll try. Please Jim, I (we) hear the same thing all the time from you guys. Contractors getting flamed for everything from minor issues to major code violations. Remember, I said I see these things on a regular basis. I did NOT say I see it in every case I come across. Of course there are good inspectors and reports. I just see more bad ones than I PERSONALLY think is acceptable.

Oh please!You know for fact that buyers use your reports for extortion, plain and simple. I've been saying it for years now: Home inspectors used to have a definite purpose for safety and finding high $$ future problems for potential buyers. Now your sole purpose is to get a lower price for buyers, simple as that. All the stupid things listed, and all the bigger things missed I see are proof of this. I know this seems like a flame, but I am just calling it like I see it, on a regular basis.

Still probably cheaper than a switch and box. I get pullouts for like $8 and they're quick and easy to wire.

The only thing wrong is the cheap ass contractor used a red wire for a neutral because it came with that cheap sealtite whip assembly. It should be white. I don't think it's anything that should hold up a house sale, but it is wrong.

Not exactly. GFIs do not look for bolted faults, such as between hot and neutral. They looks for a difference in current between hot and neutral. You can still have a "ground" fault even if no grounding conductor is present in the box. True, but it is not a good idea to call the trip mechanism in a GFI a "breaker". This is a definite misnomer.

Exactly!Testers are nice, but not to be relied upon for everything.

Either this guy knows of written local amendments in your area or he is making things up as he goes. There is NO "below 8'" rule. Not even close.

Maybe the wires are twisted together in the box and it's on a 100A breaker and they're using it as gutter heat tape? [^]

I bet someone replaced the elements in those fuses with 80A. The 100A is the rating of the fuse cartridge itself. The element inside can be less, just like a one-time fuse.

I agree that it CAN, but I disagree that it definitely will. If the neutral is properly sized and terminated properly there is no reason current would flow on the ground. Besides, what are we talking about here? 1/4"? If this were the case then why are bare neutrals allowed in SEU cable?

Sorry, but this is not at all true.

Definitely not. The current will flow on the conductor only. If the conductor or termination/connection were compromised then it may try and find another path to flow back to it's source. The only time there will be voltage present on a neutral is again, if the neutral is open and there is a live load on the circuit.

Ummm, no. Neutrals carry current, not voltage. A bare ground touching a neutral in a panel will NOT throw sparks. Unless of course the neutral is disconnected, then grounding it will only show a load arc if the circuit is on and under a load.

I hate to correct you Jim, but the bare wire in SEU is typically a neutral, and in this case it is connected to the neutral bar. That bonding jumper is there because this is a main breaker.

That white IS a neutral. There is a separate ground run to the ground bar.

Wow! An actual (almost) 10 YEAR thread resurrection! This has to be some kind of record. lol OK, whoever told you splices or even wire nuts in a panel were not allowed is wrong. Flat dead wrong. This is an old wives tale code that has been circulating for years and years by folks too lazy to check and confirm codes for themselves. There are restrictions, but you'd hard pressed to meet them to create this prohibition. As for the inspector, sounds like another power trip to me. I've never heard of such an amendment in CA, but then again, they're pretty weird and law-happy out there. Nothing would surprise me.

I do believe breakers 9/11 are still feeding the bottom half. The pics are not very clear so it's hard to be certain. I do see what looks like two black wires going up and over the top of the buss. The tandems in spaces 10/12 are a violation.

As Brric states, these are not automatic so loads can be selected by the user. They are perfectly legal in most areas. I have seen some areas that will not allow them because they are easily defeated by removing the panel cover.

Personally, I still see it as improper to suggest specific fixes. I've seen way too many HI reports in my day with bogus correction advice, especially in the electrical section.

Unbelievable what you see sometimes. I certainly let the HO know how stupid and dangerous crap like that is, even if they did it themselves. Especially if they did it themselves!

The lack of EGC has nothing to do with your your reading grounds at receptacles. They have the ground and neutrals landed on the neutral bar, so those equipment grounds are essentially just like in a main panel. They would get their path from the neutral. I would not worry about the solution, it's not your job to tell them how to fix it. I would just defer to an electrician.

For real??? You'd call for replacing the panel??Unless something inside the panel was broken I'd laugh at a this suggestion if I were in the position. I don't think you can disagree since you already admitted that zipping off the nails is a perfectly acceptable solution, but for your client you'd try and get a new panel out of it for them. Oh, and it's not just "$100 in materials.". It's a whole new panel. WHERE in the world would you (conveniently) get an empty panel enclosure???

"Hot and ground reversed" is an odd indication of an open neutral. In all my years I have yet to get an explanation of why these testers read this way. I suspect a bad GFI. NO properly working GFI, no matter how it's wired, should react this way.