caryseidner

I see both in the junction box, but the other pics are knob & tube.

No No Yes No Yes No

16' x 14' with EPDM = 0 seams in the field.

OK, you're telling me you're going to take 90 mil material with solvent welds that we know fail...... and stick it under a deck. That's what you're saying, right? That's what I would put on my house.

For Gods sake no. It's not user friendly. It's about as non-user friendly a material there is. Ex roofers all like EPDM for some reason. Cary is an ex roofer. Uhhm, yea...cause it works! The first part of my roofing life, I worked for a company that installed mod bit, BUR and CTP. We always thought single plies (EPDM, PVC & TPO) were garbage. Mostly because we were always fixing problems with them. With EPDM/TPO, it was installation issues and with PVC it was installation issues and material defects. The last part of my roofing career was with one of Carlisle's biggest installers in the country. EPDM is a fantastic product. You can line a swimming pool with it. Seriously. The installation problems we see in the HI biz is mostly caused by installation issues, but it's not complicated to install. In fact, if you can do peel & stick, you can do fully adhered. Instead of peeling, you just gotta roll on your own glue. The real decision on what type of roofing to use, depends on the structure. You wouldn't want to put mod bit or BUR on less than 1/4"/ft slope, but you can put EPDM there. If the deck is going to be close to the roof, prohibiting sun and air movement, causing longer periods of standing water, stay away from mod bit.

Fully adhered, 90 mil EPDM. From a longevity standpoint, the only thing that compares to it, in low sloped roofing, is 4/5-ply coal tar pitch (30 years). It's user friendly, doesn't require expensive specialty tools to install and plenty of pre-made flashing details.

Or a couple of Jerry's vintage streamlight bulbs? [:-weepn]

Fenix TK51. I've had it for a year with no problems, but I did have to fabricate my own holster for it. It has flood and spot modes. Both modes can be adjusted from 10 - 900 lumens, and can be used simultaneously for up to 1800 lumens.

That has worked for me too.

For those of you still interested in the OP's link, that fancy bracelet/screwdriver is gonna be $150 in stainless and $200 for the black one. I no longer find this tempting. I'm gonna buy some new slippers instead!

It must be nice to have so many slipper options.

I don't like lugging my tool bag around the exterior, so I find it helpful to have a good multi-tool on my belt. I mostly end up using the over-sized file to dig in the soil and as a pry bar to remove catch basin lids. I also occasionally find myself needing a screwdriver (or two) on the exterior. I like the SOG multi-tools.

+1 Stabila, but Craftsman has a lifetime guarantee.

It looks like it might be a good replacement for my key chain tool, but not for my tool bag.

I was unclear on that as well [:-paperba

I've been told that Wilmette requires that abandon residential tanks be removed, but I don't know for sure. This tank was in Kenilworth, but as you probably know, they're all over the North Shore. I've found dozens of them, most of which haven't been properly decommissioned. If they're empty and not filled with sand/gravel/foam then they could collapse. If there is still oil in it, then there is a chance, probably a really good one, that some has leaked out due to the tank rusting out from condensation, as it has likely been out of use for 40+ years. I'm not sure if you are suggesting that abandon UST's aren't worth mentioning because they're not regulated, or I'm just missing your point. What is your point?

Just last year I found one, a couple of miles North of us, that wasn't properly decommissioned. The oil in it leeched out into the soil and the clean-up was around 25K.

That's what it said, though I did it several times and it didn't explode.

At least a couple of years ago. My last vehicle (2011 KIA Sportage) stated in the owners manual, that you shouldn't try to raise all 4 door windows at the same time, or you could cause electrical damage.

Doors that swing out will have their hinge pins on the outside of the house. That would be a security risk, assuming standard hinges are used.

I've been using the Lumix DMC-Zx series cameras for about 4 years now. I love the pic quality, the mega-zoom and the wide (well, wider than most) angle lens. Unfortunately they seem to be vulnerable to dust entry, but I kept buying them anyways. About a year ago I was ready to change to a more dust-resistant camera, but then I found a video on YouTube (actually several) that showed how to open them up and clean them. Remove 6-8 screws, Q-Tip and blow on the mirror and the lens, reassemble....dust gone! It's a 5 minute operation and since I had several "dirty" cameras on my shelf, I'm now set on cameras for a long time.

Are you sure they weren't using those nails as spacers, and just failed to remove them all?

I think you're right about 80 psi being the maximum for the SPPC (silver-painted-plastic-crap) we frequently see, but I don't have any concrete language for you. I would punt to a plumber for further evaluation if I came across 110 psi in any house, with or without a sprinkler system.

If the Bears score 52, the Packers will score 53.

It's cheaper and more effective to concentrate on heating you rather than heating the garage. Consider this: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2331 Jim, do you have one of these? I've got a few of the M12 tools and had my eye on the jacket for awhile.