Richard Saunders

Say what???

Don't you think maybe the voltage is on the neutral? Remember the neutral is a current carrying conductor and they are all connected together at the service panel.

Screw the "points." Jim (Mr. Electric) taught a class at the franchise's annual convention in 1997 or 1998 where he told everyone that if it's 40 years old it's obsolete and needs to be replaced. I've used that recommendation ever since and have never had an argument from anyone about it. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike That's a stupid statement and doesn't apply to today. In 1997 all 40 year old panels were fuse panels. Just because you haven't had an argument about it doesn't make it so.

Its a cosmetic issue, plain and simple. Amazing how many inspectors that claim not to report cosmetic issues do report fogged windows. Single pane windows have an R value of 1. Dual pane an R value of 2. Dual pane with condensation, an R value of 1.99. On most dual pane windows, its an air space, not a vacuum or inert gas.

All in all, a nice report for a mock report. I would hesitate to quote the square footage unless you quote the source (listing, county record, measured, etc.) You can get into trouble if you are wrong. Attic; You noted how you accessed but not what you did. Did you traverse, observe from the scuttle, were there areas you could not see? These things become important down the road. Slab on grade doesn't correspond with block foundation walls. Be more descriptive with items like roof framing. '2x4 trusses on 24 inch centers in good condition where visible". I don't hesitate to say "good condition" where applicable. I like the pictures of the IR thermometer to document the split, I may start doing that. The water heater is not that blocked, get to it, its important. It's OK to "mandate". The client is paying for your opinion. Do you want to say, "Correct this problem" or do you want to say, "in my humble opinion this is not done correctly and should be fixed, but I could be wrong". I prefer, in general, more details. Was there gas service in the laundry room? Was the washer outlet grounded? Are there sinks in the bathrooms? Are vent clearances correct at the furnace and water heater? Are hose bibs frost-resistant? Does the furnace have a high-limit switch, thermocouple, gas valve, blower door switch? Does the condensate line have a trap? Details, details, details. Forget the brand and model #, focus on the important stuff. What are the things you would want to know if you were buying the house? There are a ton of things that you need to include if you are inspecting to ASHI standards (I don't know NACHI standards). You need to talk about pipe support, gas, sewer, water. Waste vents, porch columns, blah, blah, blah. Read the standards carefully and be sure you mention every item that you need to "observe". I am an avid reader, nobody writes like they talk if they are a decent writer. There's no nuance or fascial expression or body language in writing. You gotta make up for it with descriptive words. Brandon, do you talk in parenthesis? My 2 cents, worth every penny.

OK, it was over the top. But WJ does piss me off starting every post with "in my humble opinion" then spouting an opinion that is anything but humble. And "I mean no offense" and trying his best to offend. Reminds me of the agents who start off every conversation with " I'm the most honest agent you will meet". Puts me on my guard as much as "I am a devout christian". Nothing against Jesus, but I do have a problem with His fans. I have seen WJ rip apart a poster for a simple typo. Delete it if you want Kurt, it was written in the heat of the moment. At least it was vocabularically enlightening for a few.

Walter, no offense meant, but you are a condescending, patronizing xxxxxxx who hides behind comments like "no offense meant" and "in my humble opinion". You are neither humble or meaning no offense. How about this phrase, "Those who can, do, those who can't, write.". How about you post one of your (past) reports (if there are any) on this website? I'm sure we will all get a kick out of it. Maybe one of your checklists? It seems you have nothing better to do than try to collect some sort of cult following on this forum. Have you sold anything literary in forever? I have to say, it is working pretty well, there are acolytes or sycophants here that hang on every word and try to imitate your housey bull$hit jargon. I used to respect you, you used to have relevalant things to say, now all you seem to do is run down people in this business that are trying to make ends meet and feed the family. The best you can do is pick apart grammar. Oh, but don't worry Walter, no offense meant. In my HUMBLE opinion, this forum would be much better without your "input". By the way, have you ever read your one and only review on www.Amazon.com ? (Wasn't me).. http://www.amazon.com/Interior-Exterior ... Descending

Doesn't sound like folklore to me...

What??

Garet, well put.

Jesse, if it is a separate structure and there are no metal pathways between the panels, it is correct to bond the neutrals and equipment grounds in the second panel provided there is a separate ground rod, but in that case there would probably not be a grounding conductor to the original panel.

This valve arrangement seems to be the new way to go. The valve should have a separate drain line to the exterior. Probably cheaper than a tank and may last longer.

Here's one Click to View 24.28 KB

I think that is a relief valve for thermal expansion incorporated in the shut off valve (takes the place of an expansion tank). Granted, it shouldn't be teed to the T&P drain but normally, there would not be any water flow through it.

The lighting fixtures and smoke detectors are also electrical outlets, as opposed to receptacles so yes, they need to be protected

I believe #12 is good for up to 25 amps.

You see them everyday. Tank style water heaters heat a lot of water that's already warm. Sorry for the thread drift, Jeff. Sorry. Pet peeve. I guess you can call them whatever you want, whether correct or not.

I would say any of those would be OK, even though I have never seen a hot water heater

Well, since you didn't say it was a GAS water heater, I didn't know that. What else have you left out? What was the voltage reading from the chassis of these appliances and ground?

One reason you need to carry a multi meter. A sniffer will detect any magnetic field and will often "alert" on any ungrounded appliance like a water heater or dryer. I would suspect lack of grounding rather than a short or stray current.

Use your words John, It's not that hard to describe railings. IMO, you are asking for trouble putting in pictures of other homes with railings you assume are correct.

Narragansett Building Official Anthony Santilli, Jr., who arrived on scene within an hour of the collapse, said there was no question the deck was built correctly. However, after 20 years, "water and mother nature" weakened the wood. In any condition, Santilli said, the deck was not meant to support that many people. As Brandon said, These statements are contradictory. If the deck is large enough for x number of people and collapsed, it was not built correctly.

Don't forget to keep your tire pressure up and get a tune up to solve the energy crisis.

Hah, gotta work on my typing skills! I think we are right!