SWagar

Along with some family members I've just purchased a 1929 two story cottage style home. It has been pretty much neglected over the years and we are in the process of doing a major interior remodel. The remodel will include enlarging the existing dormer and adding a bathroom, remodeling the first floor bathroom and of course the kitchen. I guess I'll be busy for awhile. The first level walls are all plaster and wood lath, which is what I expected. But the entire second floor was a bit of a surprise to me. The interior of the studs are all "sheathed" with what appear to be 1x6 rough sawn lumber, no plaster, no lath, no nothin', just wood. On top of the boards was a muslin type fabric then 3+ layers of wall paper and topped with paneling (bee you tee full). We spent many hours tearing the coverings down. Now here is my question (there had to be one sometime). Has anyone had any luck with applying 1/4 inch sheet rock on top of the boards. Seems to me it would not make a very smooth finished surface since the boards under it are not even. I don't want to add too thick of a wall covering since I do not want to re-trim the windows. If I took off all of the window trim then added 1/2 sheet rock I'd need to make the jambs deeper. What other type of wall covering have you seen/used that may work in this situation? How about diferent methods. The window trim is applied on top of the wallboards. I'm not really being lazy just looking to save some time, money and aggravation. Image Insert: 62.28 KB

I'm not sure, but I think the plumber forgot something! Scott Wagar Inspections Hillsboro, OR

Image Insert: 150.7 KB Here is what can happen when the "fart fan" is not directed to the exterior. This growth on the roof sheathing was directly under the exhaust fan duct. You cannot see the duct in the photo but it was below this area by about 12 inches.

I'm not so sure that the NEC has any requirements for the location of outlets outside of the shower/bathtub (as of 2005 anyway). I don't have a copy of the latest code. There cannot be an outlet or switch inside of the shower or bathtub surround. GFCI protection is very imnportant for that type of installation, but that should be there already.

Well as you know, Oregon has an exception to the NEC requirement for GFCI for ceiling garage door openers. We also have an exception for single dedicated outlets for not readily movable equipment (in garages) e.g. Fridges and Vacs in both the 2005and 2008 Oregon Specialty Electric Code. What I have a problem with is indicating to our clients that this is an item that would require repair by the seller. When, it was never part of our code nor will it be for the next three years. I would hope that inspectors would refer to this as a safety upgrade. There has never been a code that requires homes be updated when the codes are revised. You and I know how those repairs we suggest in our reports get done, the cheapest and quickest way possible and not always by a licensed professional. So what would a seller have done, stick in a GFCI outlet at the door opener receptacle of course! The intent of the ceiling outlet is to service the garage door opener, a motorized unit. Which we all know may cause nuisance trips. Yes I have seen an occasional cord plugged into these outlets, but I have seen a lot of cords plugged into a lot of outlets run to all sorts of things inside and out. Doesn’t mean I suggest GFCI protection at those outlets. Furthermore, when the seller leaves so might the errant extension cord. Further, I would educate the client on the proper use of that outlet. Picture this, your 80 year old single female comes home late from work, opens her garage door and the GFCI trips because of the motor surge, I’m not so sure she will a) know what to do or have the ability to fix it and B) may not be all that safe that night and C) be ticked off. I believe that some exceptions have merit. That’s two posts now that say just pull the release cord on the door. Have you ever pulled the release cord on a half open door that the springs are not adequate, LOOK OUT!, dead man (no longer) walking. And again, your standard home owner may not know what that red cord hanging from the door is for, other than a parking guide. Oregon also has exceptions to the 2008 NEC AFCI protection requirement as well. We still only need AFCI in bedrooms. Other states may as well check with your local AHJ. AS far as the nuisance trips go at my friend’s condo, I did note in a following post that the entire complex is having the same problem, that being the GFCI trips when the washing machine runs. The trip happens often but not always. I can’t believe that many new washing machines in the complex (not the same as they were not supplied by the builder) all have ground fault issues. Points back to motors and GFCIs don’t mix. I have read that motor surge does not cause tripping, but anecdotal evidence seems to say the opposite. One Man's opinion..

An aside on the washing machine, the electrician told me that the entire complex is having problems, not just my friend. The County will noy budge on the code to have GFCI in all bathrom outlets even for washing machines located in bath closet. So it sounds like it is motor surge causing the problem aka nuisance trip.

What i meant to say was that the door's operation would be stopped (shut down). Bad wording on my part.

As you know the new Electrical codes are here! The new NEC code removes all previous exceptions to Garage GFCI outlets. In other words, all outlets in garages need GFCI protection. Even garage door openers located on the ceiling and dedicated single appliance outlets. Oregon, has some exceptions to this part of the code (if I interpret them correctly). My question is, what are inspectors saying in their reports about these outlets, especially door opener receptacles on the ceiling often 9 feet or more above the floor? I have heard that some inspectors are recommending that these circuits be updated to have GFCI protection, in older homes. From a practicality standpoint isn't this a little over the top? I would, always recommend upgrading all other required outlets in bathrooms, kitchens, outdoors, sinks etc. where people actually use them. But to recommend that door opener outlet be modified, I don’t know. I can't imagine what happens when the GFCI trips halfway through the lifting/closing cycle and shuts off the door. Now your client can't get in or out of his garage without resetting the GFCI outlet up on the ceiling. It may not always be possible in some homes to put the controlling GFCI outlet in a more accessible location. The NEC seems to think that nuisance trips are low these days, but my experience tells me that is not always the case. I have a friend whose new condo’s washing machine is in a bathroom closet. It requires GFCI by code. This GFCI trips constantly and has been replaced no less that 3 times by the builder. So nuisance trips do happen. What do you think?