Sodapop

Rip it out and do it right.

Unfortunately most electricians probably do know about it, they just don't care.

Erby: I hope your tetnis shot is up to date.

The adoption of the 2008 NEC became effective as of today. http://www.nema.org/stds/fieldreps/code ... 0528ky.cfm

I've never seen a listing or label on any extension cord, except the wire gauge. I guess you can only use them for things that are on the label? That would narrow the list! If it has UL, or another approved testing facility, on the label it is LISTED and LABELED.

... I remember one brand-new house where a toggle switch in a bedroom closet controlled about half the receptacles in the house. ... Sounds like the switch was cut in wrong. The hot feeding the other rooms was tied into the switchleg of the switch. Easy fix more than likely.

Did he just say it was OK? OR Did he actually take a look at the wiring?

Try using a 16AWG extension cord, which is rated for 10 amps with a Skillsaw 13-15 amps. Fact is: Drawing more current on a wire that can't carry that current is UNSAFE Anyway: Extension cords are for Temporary Use and are not listed and labeled for use to supply garage door openers.

Violation of Table 310.16 and /or 240.4(D)(5) Even though the wire is twisted together, the wire itself is still only 12/2 NM (romex). Do you have a photo of all the breakers in the panel? I won't mention the Square-D breaker in a Cutler-Hammer panel.

Glad to hear you are OK. It's a standard practice I use when working on panels to always have the panel cover installed before resetting any breakers. If I could afford a thermal imager I would use it on a regular basis. This is a prime example of why house flipping and handyman services should be outlawed IMO. I blame it on the DIY shows. Would love to see photos of the panel if you could get them.

Is conduit required in Chicago? You wouldn't find conduit in a residential home around here. Anyway, if the breaker has four (4) wires tied to it I would write that up. That would be a violation IMO. Sounds like each GFCI is a seperate circuit. If so, change out the GFCI breaker to a regular breaker and add three other breakers, if there is room, to put each GFCI on it's own circuit. If the exterior receptacles are not GFCI they would then have to be changed out to a GFCI.

Most ceiling fan remotes come with only one lead on the receiver. That wire should be tied to the switch you want to control the fan. If 14/3 is used, I always use the red wire. It sounds like the fan in question has 14/3 run to it. If the second switch (fan) is also tied to the receiver, it could backfeed to the light switch for the fan. I would assume that if the two switches were tied together in the junction box that the breaker should trip. Some electronics like motion sensors and remotes for ceiling fans have a reset feature. If you toggle the switch from on to off and let it rest for a minute and turn it back on it may reset. There may also be a reset button on the receiver. It's possible that the transmitter is bad as well. If it's an older fan and remote none of this may matter. If you could pull the canopy off of the fan and take a photo of the receiver and how it is wired I might be able to help out better. If the HO is worried about it, have them hire an electrician to inspect the fan.

Agreed![^]

Based on the main conductors coming into the bottom of the panel I would guess that the panel was upgraded at one time. Don't get me started on the lack of quality workmanship. Keep a fire extinguisher close by.

I'm sure some Home Inspectors around here are busy. I haven't talked to anyone I've just based it on what I have learned in my experience. Several homebuilders have pulled out of KY altogether so the new home market is down quite a bit. Some homebuilders are chugging along slowly. As far as the cup of coffee, would be happy to meet you Saturday the 14th in North Lexington. I have to change out a breaker in a restaurant in North Lexington Saturday morning. I'll e-mail you just in case. God bless all.

This is mainly directed at Home Inspectors, but anyone can feel free to answer. I was wondering how the housing market has been affecting Home Inspectors. Our housing market here is pretty poor right now. How has it affected your business?

Go in the house and call your helper on his cellphone who is standing by the switches. As he turns them on and off you can tell him which switch does which light.

That's because our State had Grandfathered them in as a Master Electrician more than likely. I know Master Electricians who can only bend pipe and aren't familiar with the NEC. I wasn't happy with how KY defined Master Electrician. But iti is what it is. Most people assume that if you are a "Master" as defined in your/my trade that you are competent in your trade. Unfortunately this is not always the case. I tested in as a Master before the State took over. I'll be the first to admit I don't know all there is to know about electricity. I learn something new every day.

Oh yeah that is what I meant. thanks Tandem, tandem tandem - okay I think I've got it - tandem, tandem, tandem Thanks also Kurt and Bain. Also Known As: Piggyback Breakers

Tear it out and upgrade the service. Looks like they kept adding things over the years. Most of the items in the first photo are disconnects of one kind or another. If the panel in the second photo is fed from the main panel it is a "subpanel". However: The ground and neutral should be seperated by removing the bar at the bottom. Eliminate this altogether by installing a proper service upgrade. Is the FPE panel still operational or did they just feed through it?

Upgrade your service to 200Amp. I recommend Square D QO Panels or Square D Homeline. Get rid of your FPE. Your 40A Main seems a bit small for a house. When was it built? Too many Code violations.

I agree with you that the device in the panel is a violation, but it is becoming clearer to me why you believe it so. Thank you for that. Your knowledge of the NEC goes back farther than I've been alive. When mentioning 110.3(B) and 312.8 on the other forum, the consensus is that they don't apply. My reasons for it being a violation have been picked apart piece by piece. I have cited 110.3(B) and 312.8 It seems to be that since it is not a listed or labeled approved device that it cannot be installed per 110.3(B). Other than 110.3(B) and 312.8, do you have any other Code references?

Joe, While I know you have posted this on another forum, what is your consensus with their statements? While I have commented on that forum my opinions even while stating Code sections, most of the responses are "That section doesn't apply." While I believe it is a violation of the NEC but cannot find a specific solid NEC reference, I still believe it is poor workmanship to do so. By the way: Could you post those photos here as well?

I promise to correct your mistakes if you promise to correct mine. . . We're all here to learn. - Jim Katen, Oregon Will do my best.[:-graduat

Hmm, don't you mean 2 ungrounded, one grounded and one grounding? - Jim Katen, Oregon I now stand corrected by this and other forums. I should have said: 2 ungrounded, one grounded and one grounding. Learning something every day.