Sodapop

Rip it out and do it right.

Unfortunately most electricians probably do know about it, they just don't care.

Erby: I hope your tetnis shot is up to date.

The adoption of the 2008 NEC became effective as of today. http://www.nema.org/stds/fieldreps/code ... 0528ky.cfm

I've never seen a listing or label on any extension cord, except the wire gauge. I guess you can only use them for things that are on the label? That would narrow the list! If it has UL, or another approved testing facility, on the label it is LISTED and LABELED.

... I remember one brand-new house where a toggle switch in a bedroom closet controlled about half the receptacles in the house. ... Sounds like the switch was cut in wrong. The hot feeding the other rooms was tied into the switchleg of the switch. Easy fix more than likely.

Did he just say it was OK? OR Did he actually take a look at the wiring?

Try using a 16AWG extension cord, which is rated for 10 amps with a Skillsaw 13-15 amps. Fact is: Drawing more current on a wire that can't carry that current is UNSAFE Anyway: Extension cords are for Temporary Use and are not listed and labeled for use to supply garage door openers.

Violation of Table 310.16 and /or 240.4(D)(5) Even though the wire is twisted together, the wire itself is still only 12/2 NM (romex). Do you have a photo of all the breakers in the panel? I won't mention the Square-D breaker in a Cutler-Hammer panel.

Glad to hear you are OK. It's a standard practice I use when working on panels to always have the panel cover installed before resetting any breakers. If I could afford a thermal imager I would use it on a regular basis. This is a prime example of why house flipping and handyman services should be outlawed IMO. I blame it on the DIY shows. Would love to see photos of the panel if you could get them.

Is conduit required in Chicago? You wouldn't find conduit in a residential home around here. Anyway, if the breaker has four (4) wires tied to it I would write that up. That would be a violation IMO. Sounds like each GFCI is a seperate circuit. If so, change out the GFCI breaker to a regular breaker and add three other breakers, if there is room, to put each GFCI on it's own circuit. If the exterior receptacles are not GFCI they would then have to be changed out to a GFCI.

Most ceiling fan remotes come with only one lead on the receiver. That wire should be tied to the switch you want to control the fan. If 14/3 is used, I always use the red wire. It sounds like the fan in question has 14/3 run to it. If the second switch (fan) is also tied to the receiver, it could backfeed to the light switch for the fan. I would assume that if the two switches were tied together in the junction box that the breaker should trip. Some electronics like motion sensors and remotes for ceiling fans have a reset feature. If you toggle the switch from on to off and let it rest for a minute and turn it back on it may reset. There may also be a reset button on the receiver. It's possible that the transmitter is bad as well. If it's an older fan and remote none of this may matter. If you could pull the canopy off of the fan and take a photo of the receiver and how it is wired I might be able to help out better. If the HO is worried about it, have them hire an electrician to inspect the fan.

Agreed![^]

Based on the main conductors coming into the bottom of the panel I would guess that the panel was upgraded at one time. Don't get me started on the lack of quality workmanship. Keep a fire extinguisher close by.

I'm sure some Home Inspectors around here are busy. I haven't talked to anyone I've just based it on what I have learned in my experience. Several homebuilders have pulled out of KY altogether so the new home market is down quite a bit. Some homebuilders are chugging along slowly. As far as the cup of coffee, would be happy to meet you Saturday the 14th in North Lexington. I have to change out a breaker in a restaurant in North Lexington Saturday morning. I'll e-mail you just in case. God bless all.