BornaRoofer
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Posts
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Everything posted by BornaRoofer
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Just a few comments. You should never glue tpo unless its 40 deg and rising. And you shouldnt glue anything to fesco it will never stay stuck. Fesco is for hot asphalt only. Insulation is to be fastend with 3" plates and tpo is to be fastend with 2" barbed plates. And he was holding that leister welder backwards in the seam as he welded. I hope it holds up for you.
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1998
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A tpo boot would not weld to a pvc membrane. They are completely incompatible.
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Les I may have sounded off but im not. I understand your point and also that a lot of roofers don't do things properly. Maybe they don't even know how to. Ridge vent is not a cure all for ventilation and in some instances isn't even an option.
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Well I live and work on these corn field palaces and have installed hundreds of ridge vents including my own. Properly I might add. With no call backs or problems. What exactly do you find wrong with others installations? Are they not cutting the wood back or is there no soffit vents? Oh and by the way my vents are all solar and wind powered. Go Green.
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Also when you buy the ridge vent don't get the type that has the mesh bug guard in it. It looks like a furnace filter material and works just like one to. It will clog within 6 months and you will have no venting at all. The bigger the openings the better.
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It appears to have been capped for years.
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No, polyurethanes, silicone ect wont hurt epdm. Any type of roof cement or oil based product would though. The caulk is used after the adhesive for a temporary seal until the glue cures and for T bar, Boot tops ect. Regular (cured) epdm will not form through angle changes or around pipes and such things. Thats what the uncured form flashing is for. Its also used for T joints, vertical patches, curb corners ect. The material on the stack and gas line in the pics is form flashing as is the strip in on the boot. They used to use neoprene but it ages and splits.
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It is Epdm and its seamed with tapes or adhesives. Those are the plates and screws that secure the insulation to the deck and possibly the epdm is also adheared to them. It appears that there is a epdm square at each plate. The material used for the flashings is form flashing or uncured epdm. Sometimes it does have a textured surface and it looks like the right stuff. The caulk looks like the wrong stuff but it wont make or break a good roof.
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Check these out. http://www.decra.com/
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I believe derbigum has been bought and sold a few times over the years and Owens corning was or is one of these owners and that would explain all the glass in the sheet. Kurt, I'm Technical rep for Firestone.
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Theres a old modified system called derbigum that looks like that when it gets old and doesnt get coated. Any idea how old it is?
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Those type of vents are for a sloped roof they have a good chance of leaking even if they were properly flashed in. On a flat roof a curb would be installed or a stack and the proper vent would be placed on that. There is also a one way vent made just for flat roofs that's about 8" high with a little mushroom cap. Flat roofs normally are not vented the way a residential roof would be unless venting out moisture from an old roof left in place. All that being said 5" epdm form flashing and primer around the flange would probably seal it up. That is until snow builds up over it or the metal joints inside the can leak.
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Thats incorrect. Most manufactures have coated metal for all welded membranes. Ive seen thousands upon thousands of feet of tpo metal.
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There is a aluminum coating that's fibered and will fill the cracks better. If the cracks are into the plys or membrane then its time to reroof if its just an asphalt flood coat that's cracking its not a huge deal.
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Looks like three roof systems. Shingles Epdm ModBit
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You can go directly over plywood or osb but it must be screwed down with no clips and be very clean and no splinters. In fact firestones 30 year epdm system is over osb directly but its screwed with counter sunk screws. I would always recommend a cover board of some type since most wont put the wood down right and there will be problems. Yes you can install shingles over the epdm at tie ins on a slope. It should be run up under the shingles a good couple of feet and stop the shingles a few feet above the flat. Epdm is not compatible with asphalt but theres not alot of oils coming out of a shingle and it will be fine. Mastic would be another story. If the nails are already popping up the life of the roof will be very short.
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A reglet metal is always better than a surface mount. The caulk on a surface mount should last 15-20 years if a good polyurethane is used and a it has a healthy caulk lip. But its still a maintenance item. A 1/2" to 3/4" cut will not weaken the masonry unless its already in a poor condition. This is common practice in the roofing industry.
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If you roof over a metal roof the ribs are to be filled in between with 1" foam insulation board then a cover board prior to roofing.
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Asphalt rubber cement. I keep mine next to the shingle stretchers.
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It appears to me that once upon a time someone laid over a standing seam metal roof. And then the patching began.
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Sorry but unless it has obvious markings on it that say pvc or tpo they look almost identical.
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Unless you look at commercial roofing you wont see it often.
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No probem. The marks on the sheet are for fastener placement and setting the lap. Im not sure of the brand but if I had to guess id say PVC. I dont think alot of roofers put on tpo in residential yet, its a fairly new product. Sometimes the only way to tell is to try and weld a peice of pvc to it. If it doesnt stick its tpo.
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Wow if you try and put a plastic roof on with a torch I want to film it for youtube. Its a mechanically anchored pvc roof and the seams are hot air welded with a special machine made just for that purpose. No flames please.