swarga
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Everything posted by swarga
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The evaporative cooler had the water supply shut off and therefore was not tested during the inspection. Have seller demonstrate proper operation at closing. The components of the cooler appear intact. I did not say it functioned. I said that my visual inspection did not turn up any defects.
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The only other item I saw was no handrail at the steps.
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45 seconds after it has been tipped over.[:-jester]
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Chad is correct. One of the things that help identify it is the dimple or recessed area in the center of the fitting. MOST fittings that are not dielectric do not have that dimple. I said most because last year I saw a straight sided dielectric fitting in the big orange box.
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You said you couldn't see the leak. I can't see the wind, but I can see the effects of the wind. The corrosion is caused by a leak. (CPVC does not corrode by it self) I would also pay attention to the way the vents are connected together. It may just be the camera angle but I don't think you have enough rise.
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Here in the valley of the sun we have a thing commonly referred to as "Western One Coat". This is a stucco that is applied 3/8 of an inch thick. Not 3/4" Not 3 course, Two course Brown and finish. I can't find and documentation on it other than from the AZ. Registrar of Contractors. The only 3 course 3/4" stuff here is on Commercial.
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I beg to differ. I tested a outlet on a bedroom wall and got a VD of 8%. 6 feet down the same wall I test the next outlet and got a VD of 14%. The electrician called me when he got to the house to ask me what the problem was. I explained where I found the volt drop and told him I thought there may be a bad connection somewhere in between. He called me back an hour later and informed me that someone had installed an additional outlet in the linen closet (on the other side of the wall) and that the wires at that outlet were loose and melted. (the outlet was covered with towels)He wanted to know where I bought my Suretest so he could go get one. Doug Hansen has a similar story about someone covering a junction box with loose connections behind a bathroom mirror. He found the problem with a Suretest because of the voltage drop. I say again 5% increase in the same circuit may indicate a problem. (Kurt, next time you do those tests, don't forget to plug it in.[])
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After using my sure test for a year I changed how I view voltage drop. 1. All circuits will have some drop. 2. The longer the run the greater the drop. I changed my reporting to over a 5% increase in a circuit. For example first outlet has a VD of 5% and the next has a VD of 10%. This indicates a bad connection and something that may need repair. If I check the first outlet (100 feet from the service panel)and it has a VD of 6% the next is 7% the next is 8% the next is 10%. I can bet that they back stabbed the outlets but I don't get very concerned.
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Another red flag is a buildup of dirt on the supply registers. They can have a new filter and just vacuumed the return air box/duct before I got there but if the supplies are dirty I call it out as a lack of maintenance and recommend cleaning of the entire system including the coil.
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Yes I have the 2003 IRC (Folio Views) It is searchable and printable, and can be copied and pasted. I have the 2003 ICC complete set. This is all Adobe and not searchable. I also have the 1999 & 2002 NEC as Adobe and the 2002 NEC comments handbook that is searchable. Let some builder try to tell me that it is not a code item, I dare him.[] I am taking a IRC class on June 6 in Tucson and will probably take the 2003 Combination inspector exam soon after that. I just ordered the 2003 IRC book since I can use it for the test but they wont let me use my laptop.[:-banghead]
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Thank you for coming to us for help, we will do what we can to assist you, however some additional information would be helpful. Where do you live? Do you know what code(S) have been adopted in your area. I have copied this from the 2003 International Residential Code (IRC) I will try to post the diagram as a photo. E3801.3.2 Limitations. Receptacles installed in a kitchen to serve countertop surfaces shall be supplied by not less than two small-appliance branch circuits, either or both of which shall also be permitted to supply receptacle outlets in the same kitchen and in other rooms specified in Section E3801.3. Additional small-appliance branch circuits shall be permitted to supply receptacle outlets in the kitchen and other rooms specified in Section E3801.3. A small appliance branch circuit shall not serve more than one kitchen. E3801.4 Countertop receptacles. In kitchens and dining rooms of dwelling units, receptacle outlets for counter spaces shall be installed in accordance with Sections E3801.4.1 through E3801.4.5. (See Figure E3801.4.) For SI: 1 inch = 25.4 mm, 1 foot = 304.8 mm. E3801.4.1 Wall counter space. A receptacle outlet shall be installed at each wall counter space 12 inches (305 mm) or wider. Receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the wall line is more than 24 inches (610 mm), measured horizontally from a receptacle outlet in that space. E3801.4.2 Island counter spaces. At least one receptacle outlet shall be installed at each island counter space with a long dimension of 24 inches (610 mm) or greater and a short dimension of 12 inches (305 mm) or greater. E3801.4.3 Peninsular counter space. At least one receptacle outlet shall be installed at each peninsular counter space with a long dimension of 24 inches (610 mm) or greater and a short dimension of 12 inches (305 mm) or greater. A peninsular countertop is measured from the connecting edge. E3801.4.4 Separate spaces. Countertop spaces separated by range tops, refrigerators, or sinks shall be considered as separate countertop spaces in applying the requirements of Sections E3801.4.1, E3801.4.2 and E3801.4.3. E3801.4.5 Receptacle outlet location. Receptacle outlets shall be located not more than 20 inches (508 mm) above the countertop. Receptacle outlets shall not be installed in a face-up position in the work surfaces or countertops. Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets. Exception: Receptacle outlets shall be permitted to be mounted not more than 12 inches (305 mm) below the countertop in construction designed for the physically impaired and for island and peninsular countertops where the countertop is flat across its entire surface and there are no means to mount a receptacle within 20 inches (508 mm) above the countertop, such as in an overhead cabinet. Receptacles mounted below the countertop in accordance with this exception shall not be located where the countertop extends more than 6 inches (152 mm) beyond its support base. E3801.5 Appliance outlets. Appliance receptacle outlets installed for specific appliances, such as laundry equipment, shall be installed within 6 feet (1829 mm) of the intended location of the appliance. I hope this helps. This code is probably not in effect in your area,as most jurisdiction have not adopted it yet, but it is a place to start. Download Attachment: Kitchen-Outlets1.jpg 6.1 KB
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I found the same thing you did. Not in IRC and not mentioned in installation instructions. Try calling the Vinyl Siding Institute.
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I can't find it in my Blue book either. I think you may have wrote it down wrong. I have Lennox numbers that begin with "CHP" and "CHA" but not "CH". Sorry I can't be more help.
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Many good answers, and I thank you guys for reminding me to wash the lambs blood off of my door.[:-banghead] I don't know where this house is located but I think Rob C may have nailed it. (No pun intended) If this is a humid/warm environment the condensation would make sense.[:-scared]
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stakeholders, thread drift, tuna cassarole
swarga replied to Chad Fabry's topic in Professional Home Inspection Associations
Not all real estate agents are "REALTORS" They pay to become a "Realtor" and are provided with tools and marketing material. They are required to go to continuing education classes in order to stay a "Realtor". ASHI did the same thing. You don't have to belong. To many people are focusing on ASHI marketing to Realtors. ASHI National does and will do some marketing to Realtors but they gave a big chunk of money to the chapters so they could market as they see fit. I have a local radio show in Saturday's and ASHI has three ads on in one hour. The money they spent for those ads is not directed at Realtors, it's directed at the consumer. If you are an ASHI member get involved in your chapter and help them determine where that money should be spent. If you don't get involved, Don't bitch. -
This panel does not have a removable jumper like some others do. While it will function, I would (and have) written it up also.
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I don't know. To my knowlage there is little regulation on low voltage wiring. When I used to install commercial HVAC we never used a etat wire that was approved for underground use. Sorry I could not be more help
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Terry The PDF you posted is password protected. The only way to edit this one would be to scan it in and then edit it. Most PDF files are not password protected and then the shortcuts and the PDF converter will work.
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I thought cedar was that reddish woood people put in there closets. People put that on there roofs? Don't it stink?[]
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This is no longer true. I spent $50 at Staples to buy a PDF converter program. It turns any PDF into a Word .doc I can make all the changes I want. I bought the program so that I could convert manufactures installation instructions to Word and copy and past the whole page needed to the end of my reports as a reference. Instead of saying you can go to this site and look at page 45 of 72, I just attach page 45 to the end of the report. P.S I did not minor in IT but I can spot a master as BS.[]
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Business without ASHI
swarga replied to Steven Hockstein's topic in Professional Home Inspection Associations
I am an American. I choose to be in America. I am proud to be an American and will defend it if needed. I do not agree with everything that the President or elected officials does but I voted for them and I know that they are doing what they believe is right. They may have knowledge about things that I don't but, I don't need to know everything if it will violate others rights. I am involved in making this a better country and have made it a point to stay informed. I get pissed off when some kid thinks they know it all and they never investigate what they are talking about before they go off running their mouth just because they can. I am an ASHI Member. I choose to be in ASHI. I am proud to be in ASHI and will defend it if needed. I do not agree with everything that the President or elected officials does but I voted for them and I know that they are doing what they believe is right. They may have knowledge about things that I don't but, I don't need to know everything if it will violate others rights. I am involved in making this a better organization and have made it a point to stay informed. I get pissed off when some person thinks they know it all and they never investigate what they are talking about before they go off running their mouth just because they can. Did this help put it in perspective? It is always easier to tear down barriers that get in your way than to climb over them but through the climb we become stronger and frequently when we pass over the barrier we realize why it was built to begin with. -
Business without ASHI
swarga replied to Steven Hockstein's topic in Professional Home Inspection Associations
Allow me to return this thread to the ASHI discussion that started it. ASHI is a nation wide organization but it's exposure is not the same nation wide. That is why they started branding. The ASHI presence is not the same in Fort Worth TX. and Phoenix, AZ. Here in the Phoenix metro area one of the first questions a Realtor will ask is, are an ASHI member. If you are not in ASHI they don't refer you. ASHI is a great place to receive technical knowledge and has been for years. Only recently did ASHI put a big emphasis on marketing. Marketing has always taken a back seat to the training. (In my opinion that is how it should be) Only someone who does not look at the whole picture would make general statements like "$750 is to much to belong to an organization for a web link." If that was all there was to it that would be true, however, ASHI has allowed me to meet some of the best inspectors in the country and develop relationships with them. I am not afraid or embarrassed to call Doug, or Kurt and say "I haven't seen this before, do you know what is wrong?" TIJ now has a large enough base that it may rival ASHI's board and it is allot more relaxed here, however TIJ does not have "Inspection World" available for additional training and an opportunity to meet other fine Inspectors face to face. ASHI has taught me that while I may be a great inspector in my area I am not knowledgeable in all aspects of construction across the country. For example; an old house here is something built before 1960. We have very few basements, or crawl spaces. we run our plumbing 12 inches below the ground and through the attic in many houses... ASHI and any organization is only as good as the people involved in it. If you expect to join the local chamber of commerce and instantly get referrals from it, good luck, If you get involved and participate it can become a great source of referrals. I met with Nick from NACHI the other day, He told a group of people that ASHI is about education and NACHI is about marketing. Basically that is true. Both organizations have some education and marketing but overall one does more than the other in each area. That does not make one better than the other. It may make one more attractive to an individual than another, because that is what they need. It may be that you are so blessed that you don't need the assistance of any organization, if that is the case you should thank what ever God it is that you worship. These personal attacks do not benefit anyone. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, however before you post it for the rest of the world to see, ask yourself; Why am I posting this?[%|] Is this fact or my opinion? (There is a difference)[:-graduate] Is the person I am responding to in a similar market or geographic region?[:-idea] I used to post 4-10 messages a day, now I ask myself these questions and I post 4-10 a week. -
The Builder should put gutters around the perimeter of the roof. The builder has the responsibility to build a home that meets All of the codes that were adopted in that area when the permits for that house were pulled. Therefore If the 2000 or 2003 IRC was in effect when the permits were pulled and it is a documented fact that the soils are expansive. The builder should have budgeted for gutters. The client(Buyer) had every right to expect his New home to be in compliance with all of the codes. The builder cannot decide to use the 1995 CABO because he wants to. He also cannot decide to use the 1984 NEC to get out of installing GFCI's in the kitchen. Those codes have been replaced by the new adopted 2000/2003 IRC and the 1999/2002 NEC. Have you client contact his attorney and send the builder a letter. The letter should point out that his reference used to apply in Houston and even Houston has changed. The builder needs to step up and pay the piper.
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Mike, I appreciate the rat story. Don't feel bad, I had a similar experience with a dead rattlesnake about a week ago. My pulse is just now coming back down.
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Just so we don't get into a argument about this. I write it up as being wrong also, however I had a Senior Building Official tell me I was wrong and quoted the reference that I posted. I showed him the code that Chris posted and he said the attic is considered outside. Now I try to clarify that it may be OK according to the code officials interpretation
