Hearthman

Unless you take samples and have them analyzed by an accredited lab, you're just guessing. Open flame combustion causes a lot of funny things to happen resulting in some interesting things being formed, both gaseous and solid. White residue/ powder is a common occurrence in and around open flames. Since there aren't supposed to be any solid or liquid fuel open flame heating devices in the home, we notice it with gas. Yes, you can get it with those gelled alcohol "fireplace"/ illuminaires and candles, too. What I typically see the most often in the lab reports I get from samples for Black Particulate Matter (you call it 'soot'), is a witches brew ranging from minerals such as titanium dioxide pigment from white paint to salts to fly ash, skin cells and dust. I wouldn't taste it but that's my preference. I'm not familiar with how acids are supposed to be in powder form as so often quoted but I am familiar with the residues from the reduction of a material by acids. FYI, the trace levels of sulfur in most NG and LPG should not be a consideration in this. The more common carbonic acid and at high temps. oxides of nitrogen would be possibilities including a pinch of nitric acid but it varies. I'd recommend a rigorous cleaning of the house including wiping down walls. However, as long as you're burning an open flame inside a structure don't be surprised at getting funky residues. Regarding CO, any signs of CO poisoning are very late, last minute before you die. If a CO alarm listed to UL 2034 alerts, get all occupants to a hospital because the algorithms in those alarms are set to coincide with 10% COHb, which is the medical definition of CO poisoning. Pungent odors can be caused by aldehydes but not CO itself, which has no odor. Signs of venting problems, such as the melted grommets on the top of a scorched water heater should be red flags but never wait for a person to complain of symptoms before suspecting CO poisoning. Those crummy alarms don't protect you from poisoning--they are death alarms. Get an unlisted CO monitor per floor and within 15 ft of each sleeping room. HTH

An Oxygen Depletion Sensor or ODS safety pilot is nothing more than a finely tuned pilot designed to dropout at 18.5% ambient O2. Basically, the low O2 slows the flame speed sufficient to advance the pilot flame past the thermocouple to the point it drops out. ODS pilots are not field serviceable except cleaning them. You cannot replace just the thermocouple or adjust the bracket. You cannot ream out the orifice since it is an industrial ruby shot with a laser such that it resembles a spider web or snowflake. Should a plumber insert a drill bit to "clean it out", the ruby will shatter ruining the pilot. I call these "lung vented" appliances. While the CPSC does not have a documented death from CO generated by an ODS equipped appliance, the can and do emit significant pollutants including para and acetylaldehyes, nitrogen oxides and odors. Stats are not kept on how many people get sick from these things. FYI, the ANSI std. allows a max. of 200 ppm air free from ventfree appliances. Most of these units are grossly oversized for the space and construction. They must be kept meticulously clean and logs in the exact correct position per mfr.

When VF logs are installed into a fireplace, the log mfr. typically requires the Fp meet the building code or NFPA 211 in the absence of a local bldg code. That would take care of the hearth extension. In addition, VF have a markedly increased clearance requirement over the header since that's where most of the heat is. A mantel that meets clearance for wood burning typically requires a 4" canopy or hood to push the heat well away from the facing. On a listed VF enclosure with VF logs, you'll need to refer to both the log mfrs. instructions as well as the enclosure listing. These logs project a lot of radiant heat onto the floor. The listing allows for a max. temp. rise of 117F above ambient, which then determines the level of floor and mantel protection or clearances. The position of any gas logset can have a major impact on the radiant heat to the hearth extension. Too far forwards can overheat the HX as well as the header. HTH

Re-read my first post. I said the IRC still allows it. This, however, is a contradiction because the code also says all positive pressure venting must be listed. They can't make their minds up. These appliance mfrs. say its ok to use this pipe but the pipe mfrs. and other agencies say don't do it. That's all. Fernco says don't use their neoprene couplings for combustion venting but sells them to water heater mfrs. for use on power vented models included with the unit. Go figure.

CAT IV listed venting would be the proper choice but in reality everyone gonna continue to use PVC until the codes or CPSC pull it.

No statute Bill. As I said, the mfrs. state do NOT use it for combustion venting and IAPMO said don't do it. It is NOT listed to UL 1738 so technically its just some building material that a group of mfr.s decided to use without permission or a listing. It would be the same as using terra cotta sewer pipe with mortar joints and calling that ok. There is no test protocol to ensure polymeric venting is intact unlike DWV pipe. One problem is the pipe mfrs. specifically forbid the use of pressurized gas including air in testing their pipes, even at low pressures. Nobody wants to do a water test because it will leave a lot of water in the pipes that you have to figure out how to drain. I'm working on a protocol but it is not an easy nut to crack. Meanwhile, there are listed products available.

B-vent listed to UL 441 for CAT I appliances only. No positive vent pressure. Natural draft only. Positive vent pressure appliances must vent into pipe listed for positive vent pressure, which is UL 1738 or PMI, which is where the illegal use of PVC comes from. PVC has never been approved for venting in the US by UL nor by IAPMO nor any mfrs. I'm aware of. Still allowed though by IRC for now.

Yep note on boilers they only require a pressure relief valve and not a temperature/ pressure relief valve. ASME provides some flexibility as to location but on commercial applications the insurance underwriter and state boiler inspector will probably be very strict applying CSD-1 to relief valves. Also, they should be tested per mfr. and replaced very few years even if they appear to be working properly. Some mfrs. used to state about every 5-7 yrs but some of that has changed. The relief must match the max. rating on the rating plate. Very tall buildings may use 50 psi instead of the typical 30 psi for hydronics. 5 psi is typical for residential steam boilers. Note a 50 psi system would require a higher rated automatic fill valve and backflow preventer, too.

The gage glass often froze first. Yes, the nipple was a vent. Circulator pumps didn't come about until 1923 and the widespread conversion to oil fired burners. Prior to that hydronic heating was gravity as noted by the large diameter pipes. If the upstairs rooms don't get enough heat have a technician drain the system and inspect for an orifice plate used to force more hot water into lower floor rads by gravity. Often those orifices weren't removed once converted over to forced circulation.

A pro certified in CO/combustion analysis should test and correct as needed. The vent connector should rise straight up as far as possible while still making room for the 1/4" per LF slope up to the vent. The vent connector should be supported at the offset and every four feet. The vent should be inspected for obstruction (level II). There could be a a flow obstruction such as damaged inner liner or the use of TEK screws pushing in the inner liner instead of piercing it and pulling the two single walls together. If the B-vent joints have any screws, this is a common defect. A worst case depressurization test should be conducted. There is either a flow obstruction or a depressurization issue WRT the CAZ. This is just another reason to remove draft hoods--they work just as designed. They are the most dangerous item in a home. An NCI pro knows how to make the repair to a bullhead tee with double acting barometric damper and spill switch. Backdraft must always be investigated and corrected or somebody could wake up dead.

If they rain rebar down the inside corners, rust jacking can cause this. With a listed metallic vent or chimney you won't see temperatures significant to cause thermal expansion or thermal shock. The listing allows for a maximum interior surface rise of 90?F from ambient.

I would add to Bill's post: In South Dakota, I would suspect this is below the anticipated snow line. Definitely not an approved vent termination.

The 3-2-10 rule dates back nationally to at least 1927. This chimney and the supporting pics show what appear to be soft fired bricks but definitely not SW or Severe Weather grade bricks intended for exterior use directly exposed. Note the salmon colored "Easy Bake" bricks, which are like sponges. Now note the hard Portland cement-based mortar. This mortar is waay harder than these chalky bricks which causes the destruction of the bricks from differential expansion along with freeze-thaw damage. Rebuild the chimney from the attic-up meeting the code height. The flashing could then be properly executed with the counterflashing let into the mortar joints held with mortar-no nails or caulk but floating above the step flashing. This type of brick used on modern houses is often the result of builders being suckered into reusing old salvaged bricks. Such bricks should be laid in lime mortar and are suitable for interior use only. Once the chimney has been properly rebuilt, I would recommend treatment with ChimneySaver water repellent. It is the only one I know of which meets the BIA recommendation for 100% vapor permeable or not at all. Typical "water repellents" rely on solids to seal the pores much like varnish. CSS changes the electrostatic charge to like poles with the water droplets while allowing water vapor to pass. It protects small cracks. Used by most chimney sweeps around the country successfully since '87. Junk like Thompson's will ruin masonry by trapping water inside. HTH.

BTW, this appears to be a Majestic termination. They have been bought out numerous times over the last several years but now are owned by their old nemesis, Hearth & Home Technologies, Inc.

Look inside the fireplace for the rating plate. If you cannot find a rating plate noting the mfr., model and serial number then treat it as an unlisted appliance which must be removed. Otherwise, defer to a qualified hearth pro. The stated clearances vary by unit to unit and not just mfr. to mfr. so you can NEVER assume or try to apply general measurements. One may be shorter and another may be longer--you have to read the listed installation instructions-period. I can tell you that functionally, if direct vent terminations don't have sufficient free circulation of air, they often operate sporadically. I've investigated many units that met the listed instructions for clearances but due to local effect of air currents and eddies, the thing just didn't run right or suffered outages, sooting, etc. HTH

To have a heater flue or vent sharing a chimney with a fireplace would require two separate flues separated by a 4" wythe. They may have lined the heater flue with B-vent or a listed liner but the requirement for separation remains. The section quoted applies where the open hearth fireplace is to be discontinued and closed off so it can be used for the heating appliance. You can never under any circumstances have any type of appliance share the flue with a fireplace. If you cannot determine the requisite separation the recommend a level II inspection. FYI, B-vent cannot be permanently cemented into the base of the chimney. It would have to be inserted into a thimble or sleeve that allowed removal for inspection.

At 4.4% by volume the LEL of methane would be 44,000 ppm. Most housewives I've encountered on complaints of a "gas leak" could smell the odorant at levels around 5+ ppm. Add to that around 15% of the population is not sensitive to the odorants used and you see that smell is not a reliable leak detector. Moreover, certain odorants are susceptible to "odor fade" such as from rusty pipes or damp clay soils. That''s why there are over a dozen odorants in common use and not just the mercaptans. You need to know the detection level of your gas sniffer. Those old TIFF 8800a's are sensitive to methane only down to 500 ppm. Sniffers sensitive to 10-20ppm are now common and very affordable. Note these are not gas specific so you will get false positives from all sorts of hydrocarbons such as thread cutting oils, pipe dope, many leak detection fluids, and even formaldehyde from damp fiberglass insulation. Use only non-corrosive soap bubble test solutions. Soaps that have chloride ions in them can cause stress cracking of the base metal. I recommend using only commercially prepared solutions that are known non-corrosive and documented detection properties. Note that highly viscous solutions work better on higher leak rates while the thin viscosity solutions can detect more minute leaks . The official action level requiring evacuation and constitutes a recordable event is 20% of the LEL. There is a phenomenon know as "trace gas leakage". The ANSI Z21.78 std. allow for a max. of 200 cc/hr. of gas leakage through the seals of a combination gas valve and 235 cc/hr. through the main operator at 3/4 psi. All gas regulators require a vent to adjust the pressure against atmospheric pressure. Whenever the pressure fluctuates in a piping system, a momentary 'burp' of gas might be detected at the vent screen. A sustained significant leak is consistent with a ruptured diaphragm, which would require the gas be shut off immediately and the regulator replaced before placing it back into operation. HTH.

B-vent is listed and approved for CAT I gas appliances only. This means no positive vent pressure such as forced draft appliances. It can be used with a termination draft inducer. In referencing the IRC Ch. 24, NFPA 54, NFPA 211, and UL 441, there is no application where a CAT I appliance under natural draft can be sidewall terminated. More specifically, there are several places in these standards that expressly prohibit it. UL 441 does not recognize sidewall termination of B-vent nor does it include a test for it. The tests on vertically terminated above the roof vents include temperature, wind, draft loss, & rain. Obviously, you cannot take a termination designed for a vertical application, mount it horizontally in the test structure then run the tests. On a natural draft appliance, you must have a minimum of 5 feet of total vent height from the draft hood or appliance collar. This requirement is echoed in the ANSI Z21.47 listing for forced warm air furnaces. HTH,

Ventfree water heater. This was a criminal act.

Chimney block are just a simplified way of meeting the minimum 4" nominal masonry unit chimney thickness. However, ALL chimneys must be lined and has been a code requirement since 1927. The chimney must be suitable for the class of service, too. The flue must be properly sized for the attached appliances. Since this is an interior chimney, it should have a 2" clearance to combustibles and firestopping at each floor/ ceiling. In the photo provided, the vent connectors are not properly supported, are not properly sealed to the chimney, do not appear to have a thimble or sleeve and there is no cleanout 12" below the breeching. A Level II inspection is triggered here per NFPA 211.

Hard to tell from here but appears to be pyrolized creosote from a flue fire. If it feels like a puff pastry and crumbles in your fingers that's it. You can get a welder in there but understand it would void any warranty or listing. On a steelform fireplace these are notorious for having combustibles such as paper and wood stuffed in all around them. Applying the heat from welding can ignite such hidden combustibles so beware. If the firebox on a factory built fireplace is cracked or split, recommend full replacement as there is no recognized field repair or replacement unit. Typically, these fireplaces have aluminized steel fireboxes of sheetmetal, approximately 22 gauge. Steelform fireplaces typically use heavier gauge cold rolled steel. Recommend a full level II inspection.

Current gas 'tall boy" water heaters are already way too tall because just elbowing off the draft hood often results in less than adequate vent rise, cutting elbows to reach the chimney or even downhill runs. This could kill or poison a lot of people especially as the UN tree huggers move us towards their "Sustainability" take-over. On a 40 mbh gas WH with less than 3 ft. of vent rise, you must increase the vent connector to 4". Chop that rise to less than a foot and it will spill out the draft hood rather than fight to get up the chimney or vent. Idiots...

Sediment trap on gas gas pipe may not be properly supported Is the shutoff within 6ft of the appliance valve? Merchant coupling on gas riser vent connector not supported Is this chimney lined with a listed liner? Regardless, there should be a reasonable access to the base of the chimney and that shiny pipe sticking out of the wall means either a joint in the wall or inadequate access. If unlined, it should be lined Where's the clean-out if unlined? behind pegboard would be too low Ensure min. three equidistantly spaced screws per joint on vent connector Need backflow preventer Need low water cutoff should have some means of air removal even though not code That's a pressure relief valve-not a temperature/ pressure relief or TPR as used on water heaters. Good pickup on the 40lb. gauge pressure on a #30 relief. Watts recommends replacing PRVs about every three years anyway. While legal, the circulator on the return is less desireable than putting it on the supply. Get Dan Holohan's book on "pumping away. Need to check expansion tank to see if it is water logged or not and if drain and isolation valves work. Need isolation valves on that indirect tank with a check valve for one-way flow. Need drain cock on the indirect loop Ideally should have primary/secondary piping when this boiler replaced or at min. a bypass with a globe valve to temper the return water. These old Weil-Mc's are all over Philly and chug along. Not especially efficient but they get the job done. The burners do crud up so get it serviced. The relay and the vent damper are the common failures in these units over time. How do you vent an appliance with a 7" vent connector into a masonry chimney with a nominal 8"x8" flue that has an actual 6.5" x 6.5" ID? This is why I disdain W/M boilers. They always oversize their vent connectors and draft hoods. A 7" for 140 MBH? Ridiculous. It would need only a 5" B-vent. Do you have you MUA at 50 cubic feet x 140? That's about a 1,000 square foot basement required or MUA. Grounded 120 vac service outlet within 25 LF of boiler? Switched light to space with sufficient lighting for service? Electrical disconnect within sight in same room clearly identified? FYI, you can test pressure gauges for accuracy by attaching your simply hose bib pressure gauge on the boiler drain and opening the cock to read the actual static pressure and compare. I put an isolation valve on all boiler tricator gauges because they are so prone to failure.

Direct vent pipe is co-axial meaning the air is entrained into the concentric space by thermosyphoning as the hot flue gases exhaust up the inner flue. No, B-vent is not the same thing as each length of B-vent is pinched on both ends creating a dead air space or Dewar's Flask effect insulating the flue lining. The vent exposed to a deck where people could be expected to come in contact with it is a problem. The vent could and should be encased in a chase maintaining clearance to combustibles and extend it up at least 7 feet away from people's faces. The listed instructions for that particular fireplace must be followed as they are the code. You can call out issues not directly addressed by the instructions or building code as they cannot anticipate every possible situation and people never cease to amaze me with their creativity. HTH

Kurt, not that it's any of your business what I wear or not but I'm not a home inspector. As for what I'm proposing I thought I typed in English.