Richard Stanley

"Just curious, did a beekeeper come and remove the hive or did you nuke them? " The extermimator exterminated them with some kind of dust he pumped in to the cavity. We also have lots of africanized "killer bees" around here. I'm not sure what these were - they didn't act hostile - I didn't try to provoke them. I had a swarm of the africans in my back yard a couple of years ago - the city vector control sent a guy out and he wiped them out. Luckily, I saw the swarm arrive and called them immediately as they were trying to set up housekeeping in one of my back yard trees. I don't know how far north the africans have migrated - they don't do freezing weather - but, there are not to be messed with. There are frequent reports of attacks especially to people mowing their yards. You get a few thousand stings in just a few minutes.

I found a new use for mine yesterday. Monday evening I noticed some bees hanging around one side of my house and they were going in between the brick and and the upper cladding. Tuesday morning after I called the exterminator I tried the IR just to see what I could see. Sure enough. It showed the exact location - a hot spot about the size of a football. A triangulation of views showed them to be between floors. Shortly after the exterminator did his thing, we cut about 2 square foot opening in lower level gypsum ceiling at the area where the IR showed tem to be. 30 minutes later, bees gone, honey extracted and residue cleaned, ceiling temporarily patched and on with life. I did not think to take pics - wish I had. By the way, exterminator said sometimes he has to spend lots of time trying to determine locations!!!

Yes.

Thats gotta leak! Doesn't it get filled with snow. ice, etc.? R310.2 Window wells. The minimum horizontal area of the window well shall be 9 square feet (0.9 m2), with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (914 mm). The area of the window well shall allow the emergency escape and rescue opening to be fully opened. Exception: The ladder or steps required by SectionR310.2.1 shall be permitted to encroach a maximum of 6 inches (152 mm) into the required dimensions of the window well. R310.2.1 Ladder and steps.Window wells with a vertical depth greater than 44 inches (1118 mm) shall be equipped with a permanently affixed ladder or steps usable with the windowin the fully open position. Ladders or steps required by this section shall not be required to comply with Sections R311.5 and R311.6. Ladders or rungs shall have an inside width of at least 12 inches (305 mm), shall project at least 3 inches (76 mm) from the wall and shall be spaced not more than 18 inches (457 mm) on center vertically for the full height of the window well.

I don't do it. I have seen a chart that displays average life of appliances, etc. I'm thinking it was from ASHI. Maybe someone has it.

P2803.6.1 Requirements for discharge pipe. The discharge piping serving a pressure-relief valve, temperaturerelief valve or combination valve shall: 1. Not be directly connected to the drainage system. 2. Discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water heater. 3. Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve served and shall discharge full size to the air gap. 4. Serve a single relief device and shall not connect to piping serving any other relief device or equipment. 5. Discharge to the floor, to an indirect waste receptor or to the outdoors. Where discharging to the outdoors in areas subject to freezing, discharge piping shall be first piped to an indirect waste receptor through an air gap located in a conditioned area. 6. Discharge in a manner that does not cause personal injury or structural damage. 7. Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants. 8. Not be trapped. 9. Be installed to flow by gravity. 10. Not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the floor or waste receptor. 11. Not have a threaded connection at the end of the piping. 12. Not have valves or tee fittings. 13. Be constructed of those materials listed in Section P2904.5 or materials tested, rated and approved for such use in accordance with ASME A112.4.1.

"I recommend that YOU do NOT test those that discharge inside a home." And, effective with the 2006 IRC, the tp drain pipes must terminate in the same room where the water heater is located.

Aaron got that language from Texas law. I have 'reasonably determined' that all of the valves may be damaged and do not test them.

I'm reading that the realtor said that the other agent said that the seller said that the roofer said.... I doubt you'll ever hear from them. Don't discount the possibility that the seller may have ordered what he got -- "just make it look pretty - I'm selling it" And now they were caught. So it goes.

Jodi, FWIW, A moisture meter is / will be one of your most valuable tools. I use an infrared camera (2 years) and would not want to be without it. Even with that, you still have to verify what you think you find. If you think you see moisture, you still have to use a meter or maybe just your touch sense. The camera helps you discover the possibility much faster - you can scan a whole room in a few seconds. FYI, The meter I use is the Tramex moisture encounter plus. It is pinless. You must be cognizant of its readings also - it can double as a metal detector. Since you said you had read a lot about the cameras, I suspect you already know this. To your first question - If it is wet, it is active - maybe. What is wet? Check the area in the vicinity that appear to be dry. What is the moisture % on those areas? If the stained area is a higher %than the surrounding area, It is probably active or has been recently. Even a so called dry area will be approximately 6 - 8 % moisture content. By the same token, stained areas may be 'dry'. ie; old repaired leaks that were not re-painted. Back to the IR camera, it will distinguish those areas instantly. It will also disclose moisture where there is not any indication to the naked eye. Enough. mcp

I think your career path choice is brilliant. A ladys' place is in the home.......as soon as she gets out of work. another wuss.

Google spider repellent - take your choice.

There is a lot of info in this forum ie; posts by Norm Sage

We are required to report on them here. The brackets ship with the unit. I find them in kitchen drawers or thrown into the garage many times on new construction.

Just to set it straight.. Jodi, I personally enjoy your presence here. Participants that ask questions keep everyone else on their toes and also allow them to learn or re-learn "stuff". So, thanks, and keep posting. There is no extra charge (that I know of) for the extra curricular banter.

i find the scenario of the original post about 1/2 the time around here. I'm not about to check the span tables for the appropriate sizing. If there are 2 x 6 rafters, then they should have minimum 2 x 6 purlins and I call it if they don't - another frequent finding is bracing in excess of 4' spacing under the purlins. I also report in the same comment that a structural enginer should prescribe and/or approve any required reparations. I tell the client that if an SE says its ok, get it in writing and hold on to it for when you sell.

"you smart little inspectors!" You are well on the path to qualifying to be one our next ex-wives!

http://www.nachi.tv/episode22 Yeah, I know, but, there is some interesting info here.

I attended a 1-day Flir course in Orlando prior to buying a camera nearly 2 years ago. The instructor had several different cameras and some of the other attendees brought cameras. My main purpose was to learn about interpretation. Operating the camera was the easy part. I still believe interpretation is the most important. Once you start using it, you will learn more just by verifying what you think you see. Something that was glaringly obvious was that the better cameras produced better pictures. If I was going to pursue more than just HIs with it, I would have a better camera. Like a lot of other education, on site participation works better for me than on-line. Steven, as for hidden damage, you can set up your own experiments at home. Like Ronald Reagan said - trust, but, verify!!

A moisture meter, WWD or other, will show moisture no matter what the temperature is. If the moisture has been there awhile and there is no temperature differential, no camera is going to disclose it. Generally, the B-cam will show you as much as the big bucks model. Of course, if there is a temp difference, the mapping will be easy. Neither tool is going to show hidden damage, just where to look for and verify it.

You can create the poor mans version - take the thermal pic and a regular digital of the same area and place them side by side in the report. You can also edit the digital with a box, circle, arrows,etc., to indicate the area related to the thermal image.

"who is a member of the Ethics and Standards of Practice committee for one of the professional home inspection organizations" He is the president, isn't he??

$40 every couple of weeks!

"Does anyone have any suggestions" Maria

There was a considerable amount of remaining restoration to be completed. The current owners encountered some health problems and I thought it was a bail out price, even in that small town. I don't think you could build 1/2 of it for that price.