Richard Stanley

It is also a security concern. We have had a few thefts and rapes because of lack of separation. Also advise your client that a lock of some sort is advisable.

My 12 yr old grand son just got his 2nd degree black belt in Tae Kwon Do in Philadelphia. He also contracted swine flu while there.

I used overnight prints.com for several jobs of mine and for my wife (artist). Work, price, completion and delivery very good. Easy to design your own on their site.

The old saying -- 1 picture = 1000 words .... more like 2-3000.

Lots of inspectors and others advertise using the "we", but, are actually individuals / one man shops. I guess its an image thing. Like everything elae, I suppose there are pros and cons to doing it that way.

I may have written this previously... Several years ago, a local handyman went into a crawl that was wet - and had electrical wirng on the ground. His still smoking body was found 2 days later.

The reason is in the letter. Members stopped submitting money for renewals.

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"Anybody know an easy way to calculate the Natural Air Changes per Hour without all that algebra stuff?" Just count 'em. 1..2..3..fo.. ie; un..dos.. tres Happy holidays.

I took a 1 day class (Flir) before I purchased the camera. My main objective was to learn about interpretation of what I was seeing. They covered a lot of the techinical stuff on hows, whys, etc., but, I haven't had any reason to refer to that since - nearly 2 years. As was said earlier, Just about everything is in the manual. Bottom line - verify, verify, verify.

The only units not subject to the 18" rule is FVIR types. It is not just garages, - its flammable storage areas. '06 code indicates that water heater installation in un-heated attics, garages, other unconditioned space is a no-no. This conversation ongoing at IN also.

Sheeesh! You just can't expect these guys to bowl several strings in only 15 minutes.

The "spray racks" were / are used to find defects in eifs, also.

Same thing happened here ( Corpus Christi) earlier this year. Problem was insufficient chlorination at the treatment plant - also an attempted cover up - resulting in a few upper echelon resignations and dismissals.... whole thing lasted about a week.

When everything goes just write, This post was obviously written by a Walter imposter!!!!

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http://www.foundationrepair.org/ This area, as well as others around the country, has unstable clay soil. The clay acts like a sponge - when it is wet - it expands. When it is dry - it shrinks. Everything that is in it, on it, around it moves. That is fine, as long as everything moves the same way at the same time. When it doesn't, that is differential movement - causing millions of dollars of repairs. Many, if not most, houses that have been built in the last 30 or so years have experienced differential movement to some extent. There are several reasons for this. Developers and builders were not held to properly preping the site - ie; compacting with select fill..proper grading, etc.. I forgot to mention - these houses are on slabs - we don't have basements. About the same time, they started using post tension cables in the slabs instead of the time tested rebar. After the 30,000 lbs of tension was locked into the slabs, they acted like a brittle cookie - it didn't and doesn't take much movement to break them. The rebar slabs just laid there and did not get broken with the same frequency. About the only thing that caused problems for the rebar slabs was a water leak under the slab that could cause it to heave. Many of the newer houses have watering systems built in as 1 or 2 stations of the yard sprinker systems. Many others have drip systems attached to hose bibbs. The repair for the broken slabs is to install piers under them. Why not do that in the first place - you ask. Money. Same reason they use tension cable instead of rebar. Some custom home buyers demand rebar - and pay more for it. The main difference is labor. Are there procedures available to circumvent the failure probablility? Sure. They all involve more money on the front end.

Here is some info. The main purpose is to attempt to stabilize the soil. There are differing opinions on the effectiveness. Expansive soils act like a sponge. As they absorb water, they swell and as they lose water they shrink. Soils tend to dry out (and shrink) during the summer and to absorb water (and swell) during the winter and spring. As the soil under a house shrinks and swells with the seasons, the house and foundation will move up and down. As long as the foundation movement is not great enough to damage the house and/or foundation, most people do not consider the movement to be a foundation repair problem. If the up and down movement of a house foundation always returns the house foundation to its original level position, then damage to the house and foundation may appear and disappear on a regular basis as the seasons change. If a homeowner wishes to stop seasonal house and foundation damage, the first course of action should be to follow a controlled watering program. By keeping the moisture content of the soil under the house foundation constant, foundation movement can often be stopped. This has been written to assist the homeowner in performing a simple foundation repair preventive maintenance program. The goal of a foundation repair preventive maintenance watering program is to maintain a constant level of moisture in the soil under the house and foundation. The best way to water a foundation is to place a soaker hose from one to two feet from the edge of the foundation. Placing the hose a short distance from the foundation allows the water to soak into the soil evenly. The hose should not be placed against the foundation. When soil has dried and cracked, water can travel along the cracks for several feet in all directions. If the soil around your foundation is dried and cracked, then water placed next to the foundation will run through the cracks and accumulate at the bottom of the grade beam (the thick portion of the foundation that is under the exterior walls). In some cases, an accumulation of water in the soil at the base of a foundation can cause the soil to lose some of its load-bearing capacity. If the soil loses enough load-bearing capacity, the house will sink into the ground. Obviously, it is necessary to water more during hot, dry weather and less during cold, damp weather. The amount of water required to keep a foundation stable during the summer can be surprisingly large. A single large tree can remove as much as 150 gallons of water, or almost 20 cubic feet of water, from the soil each day. Shrubs and other plants can also remove large quantities of water. During persistent hot dry weather, it may be necessary to water a foundation daily. Watering should supply enough water to keep the moisture content in the soil under the foundation constant. If the amount of water applied is only enough to keep the surface damp, the watering program will not work. Obviously, the homeowner is the only one who can weigh the benefits of controlling foundation movement versus the increased size of the water bill.

David, looks like you are going to have to drain the whole town - not just your pool. I saw some pics of fish in the streets, gators too.

I have owned and have been using an IR cam for a little over 2 years. I did not receive level 1, 2, etc. I did, however, attend a 2 day basic course by Flir for the purpose of gaining a little technical background about the toy I was using and, specifically, to know what I was seeing with the cam. The operating instructions that are furnished by the manufacturer are pretty good. After that it is find , but, verify. I never make a call based solely on the IR - always verify with another method. I use the cam on just about every inspection for my benefit. It saves time and increases my comfort level in knowing I have a better chance of 'not missing something I should have found'. One little thing I picked up in that class - When you think you see something - look at it from a different angle. Amazing piece of advice.

Article in todays local rag related to Denmarks energy conservation. Automatic toilets with 2 speed flushing - depends on what is in there. How could that work? Sensors that smell or weigh contents?? Maybe there is a little man or Mrs Fabry???? edit: Think about how you would inspect those - both speeds!! That might exceed the SOP.

National Electric code. 110.12© Integrity of Electrical Equipment and Connections. Internal parts of electrical equipment, including busbars, wiring terminals, insulators, and other surfaces, shall not be damaged or contaminated by foreign materials such as paint, plaster, cleaners, abrasives, or corrosive residues. There shall be no damaged parts that may adversely affect safe operation or mechanical strength of the equipment such as parts that are broken; bent; cut; or deteriorated by corrosion, chemical action, or overheating.

The only 'problem' I'm aware of is that eventually you won't be able to see through the glass. It also lets everyone who sees it know that you are too cheap to replace it.

"It may or my not be code in that area, but in either case it is a good idea to run the pressure release valve (T&P) drain to a location where the homeowner can see if it is leaking." Its required to terminate in same room in '06 IRC

Smokes may/should sound when AFCI is tripped - They have (supposed to have) battery back up. AFCIs may be installed in rooms other than bedrooms.