Mr. Electric

No!

How would you feel about crawling up into this attic? This is one I ran into a while back. All of this mess is for lighting relays (low voltage switching). Thought you would like to see it. Click to Enlarge 50.08 KB Click to Enlarge 74.12 KB

I am just saying that we do have problems with these brands more often than some others. They are definitely not as bad as Zinsco or FPE so don't get too worried. In my opinion the best panels and breakers are Cutler Hammer and Sq. D. We rarely see any problems with them, and the breakers work very well.

Not sure I can add a lot to what has been said here. There are two sides here and I think they are both right. The National Electrical Code (NEC) does allow 14 gauge wire on a 15 amp breaker for most of the outlets and lighting loads in a home (and by the way in a commercial building too). There are many locations where 12 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit is required for outlets like; kitchen, dining, bathrooms, and laundry. Local jurisdictions (and states) can change the rules of the NEC. Sometimes they make them stricter (as it sounds like some places in Illinois may have). As an example in Washington State we adopted the 2008 NEC but chose to stay with the AFCI requirements that are in the 2005 NEC. I think the important thing to be aware of (as Michael said in his post) is you need to be aware of the rules and laws in your area so you can be accurate in your report. I would always insist (nicely) on seeing a rule in writing from the jurisdictions if you have a question about it. Inspectors or other AHJ's (authorities having jurisdiction) cannot just make up a rule and impose it on people without something to back up what they are saying.

Great pictures Rob. I think they need to hire a "qualified" inspector at HUD!

This appears to be a non-IC (In Contact with insulation rated) recessed can. If so it is required to be at least 1/2" from combustibles, and at least 3" from insulation (so the heat can escape). By the way it looks like a homeowner installation. No connector on wire, and not stapled within 12".

Nice find Rob. Can't image why the light didn't work! I bet this is not the only electrical issue at the property! See the post for "Electrician Finds Wiring Issues" that I found on a site recently.

Glad you are enjoying the pictures. I think the scary issues above were done by the siding people (Mast - Meterbase) and the rest was probably done by the homeowner or "a friend". If you as a home inspector find any electrical issues, I highly recommend that the home buyer hire an electrical expert to do an inspection. I am not trying to say that some of you cannot do one properly, but the big difference is an electrical contractor can spend an hour or even two looking at just the electrical issues. On this one I spent about 2 hours on site, you just can't dedicate that kind of time to the electrical system. Thanks for Posting this on my behalf Michael.

To answer your question - Yes, it would be OK as long as you don't use it where it can be damaged. For example you cannot run it (liquid tight flex) across concrete where people will walk or damage it. Make sure you use properly sized copper wires (most tubs require 4 wires), and get a permit so you have it inspected. Just might save a life! PS: I assume the circuit or disconnect is GFCI protected! PSS: Or if this does not make sense then I go along with Jim's recommendation - hire a licensed expert to do it properly.

The oven and cooktop both lit up when any knob was turned on. I would agree that more than likely they are not grounded. There is the possibility that there is a short in the appliance, and since they are not grounded the case could be energized. I just want to let all of you know that you need to be careful when touching anything electric. Don't make your body the path (don't touch anything if you are grounded) for electricity.

I ran into these on an inspection recently. I did not measure the voltage, but there certainly could be a possible shock hazard. BE CAREFUL OUT THERE! Click to Enlarge 45.51 KB Click to Enlarge 42.99 KB

Thanks Mike. I hope none of the guys spills the beans about my garden shed! Please go to the website and buy a raffle ticket for the $50,000 custom chopper. It is a fundraiser for Ronald McDonald charities. If you don't know anything about them please check out the web site http://rmhc.org/

I have personally tested 20 amp (Zinsco) circuits with 30 amps on them that did not trip (see picture running 2 portable heaters and hairdryer at the same time). Jim K. is right in that there is not a lot of hard evidence on them except what you can find at http://www.inspect-ny.com/elec...sco.htm. I helped Daniel Friedman put this information together (most of the pictures are ones that I personally took). I don’t have time to log onto this site a lot. So if you have any specific questions I am at mrelectricoly@msn.com Click to Enlarge 44.64 KB

Just a note - The first picture is showing a grounded outlet (although the grounds should have a crimp sleve or green wirenut to meet code).

As long as there is one switch inside the garage it meets code. The only place in the code where 3-way switches (2 locations) are required is at a stairway. There are many times and places where it is a godd idea to put in 3-way switching, but it is a design issue -- not code required.

I have checked in here quite often to see what is being discussed, and to see if I can add something to the discussion. Every time I have read the answers that are given by others I leave the site smiling. Why? Because the level of expertise that is exhibited is great! I don't need to add anything because the other answers are alway correct (at least so far)[:-party]. You guys really need to have all the Home Inspectors that you know come to the Inspectors Journal to get educated about electrical issues! Jim P. Simmons

I have a great small file (3 pages with information and pictures) about Zinsco and Sylvania panels that you can use. I can't get it to upload for some reason. If you would like a copy of it (in Word format) send me an Email to mrelectricoly@msn.com. Good discussion and points.

The notes are correct. It is very illegal and unsafe! The wires are not connected to the enclosure, and the unused knock out must be closed by something equal to the metal in the cabinet. I agree with the "thats a discrace" comment. No "electrician" would ever do work like that.

Of course - not all fixtures without a box are a hazzard! Image Insert: 125.18 KB

This is the only quad type breaker (except the 4 pole main) that I am aware of. Does this look familiar? Image Insert: 340.23 KB

Scott did a great job answering the question, ditto! You can usually tell by the wood screws holding the fixture to the wall that there is not a box behind it. Image Insert: 121.03 KB Image Insert: 121.32 KB

It appears that Chris is correct. The sub main appears to be on the wrong side and the peanut type (half size) breaker is sitting where the sub main should be. I am not sure that there is a safety issue here though. As long as the breakers go onto the buss properly (which some peanut type can only be installed at a specific location in a panel), there should not be an issue. You can see by the schematic that beside the sub main the lower section is rated for all peanut type breakers. Another issue is simply that if the sub-main breaker was installed per the diagram the wires would impede access to the neutral bar, maybe that’s why it was installed that way. Hope this helps.

This is an odd version of a split-buss panel. If you look close you can see the top two breakers are on the un-fused buss, then the wires feed the top breaker for the lower busses. In this case the top two breakers, and the sub-main would shut off all the power in the panel - 3 hand actions. The NEC used to allow up to 6 disconnects at a dwelling so this was OK.