Mr. Electric

I am sure the panel is not listed for all the circuit breakers that are installed! 40 circuits (more than likely) with the main counted as 2. As far as the "no limit on number of breakers now," that is correct, "as long as the panel is Listed" for the number of breakers that are installed. That rule change does not affect existing panels!

Bad GFCI. Just call it out Robert.

You guys are right to be concerned here. Yes the code allows a common neutral for a multi-wire circuit, but this is not a multi-wire circuit. There should be a neutral for each circuit that originates in the main panel. As noted above the neutral can easily be overloaded and cause all kinds of problems if it fails.

The wire marked with white tape is actually a ground, not neutral. Should have been bare or green, but the main issue is the loose connection that failed. Agree with Jim.

Looks like a combination of loose connections and heavy loads. I have seen this in older homes that have been overloading the circuits by using things like hair dryers in the bedroom, or portable heaters to heat the house. For sure want to call for a licensed electrician to check it out.

I have been doing this (electrician) for over 30 years and have never seen or heard of anything like that. Someone did it for some reason after the outlets were installed. There is no reason to block a ground pin hole.

Here is what the panel and wiring looks like in a crack house. The wiring (or lack of) was in the attic and basement crawl space. They removed everything that was accessible! Click to Enlarge 45.57 KB Click to Enlarge 33.61 KB Click to Enlarge 56.95 KB Click to Enlarge 49.37 KB Click to Enlarge 49.42 KB

It sounds a little iffy to me. I would recommend that you write it up and say something like; Could not confirm the electrical service is grounded and bonded per code requirements. Recommend that a licensed and qualified electrical contractor be consulted to confirm. Especially where the grounding takes place somewhere other than the main panel. Most meter bases (a few do) do not have a separate lug for these connections in my experience.

Some of the Cutler Hammer breakers are listed for more than one wire (15-30 amp). As stated above the Square D and Homeline are also listed for more than one wire. Of course the load on the circuit could be an issue. Here is a picture of a CH breaker (I had to highlight it to get it to show up - the printing is just embossed in black). Click to Enlarge 36.32 KB

You all need to read this short story. Electricity and water are a hazard waiting to happen. GFCI outlets save lives! http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/kritz.asp

I agree with Jim K. Anyone can say they had someone look at it, but did they really? Were they qualified to look at it (or are they a commercial electrician or engineer that have no idea what they are looking at)? A wide shot picture would have been helpful, but I guarantee that I would have issues with it.

Sounds like you guys are on top of it. It would help on this type of discussion to see a picture of the other panels and locations. One note - It looks like the required bond (green) screw is laying in the bottom of the service disconnect. Easy to miss - very important component.

There are requirements in the National Electrical Code to do a calculation for that service (NEC 220). There is a multiple family example in annex D4(a). Unfortunately there is no easy rule of thumb that I am aware of. The wire (and other components) need to be sized properly to handle the load of the property - not the breaker sizes. In other words it is very likely that a load calculation for a triplex would come up at 150 amps, even thought the main breakers for each unit are rated at 100 amps. If you think it is too small then I would recommend that you recommend that the owner or buyer hire a qualified electrical contractor to inspect it, and provide a proper load calculation for the property. By the way I agree - time for a service upgrade!

As noted above it appears to be a legal tap per NEC 240.21 B-1. This stuff does get complicated sometimes. There are several issues that are possible and I still recommend that an electrician (that knows his stuff) look at it. I can't tell if a neutral is in the sealtite flex to the disconnect. One is required (even if the disconnect only serves a 240v load) see NEC 200.2. The tap wires must be connected with a listed connector (it looks like it is), that is sized properly (is it?) for both wires it is connected too.. The name for this type connector is a coupletap. Great points and discussion.

One small issue Jeff. The picture is correct, but you must note that the GEC is continuous. You can tap it (to run to another panel for instance) but it must be continuous, or can only be spliced as noted above. As noted the split bolt would be OK for a tap, but not to splice the GEC. Great discussion guys.