msteger

I would definitely call out that panel, as you did, and have it evaluated by a licensed and qualified electrician. Just too many strange things going on in there.

All of the solid conductor AL Romex wiring I've seen had a plastic outer sheathing like like modern copper Romex. You would see "AL" printed on the jacket. Base upon what you describe, I don't think it's Aluminum wiring.

"and a home inspection by a licensed inspector." Not all states license home inspectors.. such as the Commonwealth of PA. Just what we need...another gov't program run with our tax dollars and more debt.

Are those appliances installed so tightly in that closet that the clothes dryer vent can't be accessed for regular cleaning?

That means those replacement Stab-Lok breakers are defective for two reasons.

Got it guys.. Thanks.

I know the plumbing code forbids double traps, but why exactly? Does having two traps in series allow for easier siphoning or what? I am drawing a blank. This morning, the dual kitchen sink had a trap in the drain line that both sinks drained to, but under one sink was also a garbage disposal. The drain line coming out of the disposal immediately went into a trap, then ran laterally to meet the other sink's drain, and then they went into the common trap.

D'uh...what the heck was the electrician thinking when he placed it in there? How old was the home?

Same thing I call them here in PA. I only see them on a few mobile/manufactured homes.

I believe the modern gas fired forced air system will try 3 times to ignite. If it does not, the system should shut down.

Does it freeze in Texas? Well, it snowed in southern Texas a few weeks ago.

Yeah, I would agree that even if the buyers had an inspection done, if there were no signs of active water penetration (puddled, saturated or freshly stained boxed, etc.) at the time of the inspection, the inspector may have had no reason to report active water entry but only evidence of past water entry, monitor, and further question the sellers. We've all had this same situation and reported this way, hopefully without buyers like this suing everyone. Tort reform is needed and people filing these frivalous lawsuits need to re-imburse the defendants' costs if they lose the case. Our pre-inspection agreements are worth little not matter how strongly they are worded. Reporting what you see and careful wording in your report and a lot of CYA can help keep inspectors out of court.

I would imagine no as this would make it more prone for leakage at the seams, eh?

Somehow I didn't hear about the local Squat Squads on the local news a few weeks ago..

Reminds me of the first day of Circuits 1 class back in my freshman year of college. I do hear a lot of people (including some home inspectors) say that "current flows in a circuit" which is not accurate. "Current" is actually the movement of something like "a river's current". Charge is what actually flows in an electrical circuit. Just saying..

I seem to find quite a few 240 v circuits with improper breaker handle ties (mostly a piece of copper wire or a nail) and I call 'em out all of the time. Definitely looks like someone did something in the 1st photo.

How many of you recommend automatic evaluation of the system by a licensed electrician when you run across 3 phase residential systems? I've seen a few in the past 8 years and each time found a few of the common electrical issues. Since we rarely see 3 phase electrical systems during our inspections and little of our ongoing training seems to ever deal with 3 phase systems, I always recommend complete review and explain to the client why I recommend it.

Looks like they even used a protective sleeve where the CSST passes through the metal chassis of the fireplace.

Creative, huh?

The installation is wrong for the following reasons: The main lugs aren't listed to hold the smaller conductors. The main lugs aren't listed to hold two sets of conductors. The main lugs aren't listed to hold both copper and aluminum conductors together. Of course, one of the conductors has come loose. The arrestor leads are supposed to be as short a possible and terminate on their very own breakers, one on each pole. I've never seen or heard of it done correctly. *Everyone* pretty much double taps them onto either the main lugs or onto the lugs of a branch circuit breaker. - Jim Katen, Oregon I've actually seen one installed correctly.. only once.

It is indeed very similar to a radon fan. If you look closely in the photo, you will see it does say "dryer exhaust booster system" on it.

Yes. Certainly. Where did you hear that? - Jim in Oregon I don't recall exactly where I was taught that but it was one of the annual NAHI seminars or a joint ASHI/NAHI seminar from about 6 or 7 few years ago that I went to. SO, if what I was taught was wrong, should I expect to see the same 14~22 deg delta no matter what the exterior temp is above 60~62 degs? I've run A/C systems in the mid to upper 60s and found delta to be around 10 degs and thought this was normal for that temp.

I was always taught that if the outside temp is about 74 or higher, a normal temp drop (delta) of 14-22 degs is normal, but if less than 74 degs, the temp drop may only be 7-12 degs. Is this wrong?

It's also really difficult to walk up and down these things wearing a tool belt.

Check out the CertainTeed Shingle Applicators Manual under the Chapter titled Ventilation. The other major manufacturers (Owens Corning, Tamko, GAF) strongly recommend this but only CertainTeed (to my knowledge) requires it for the warranty to be in force.