inspector57

The manufacturer just threw the installer under the bus. Call them and ask for a check so you can get someone who understands what they are doing to redo the installation with new materials. I don't think there is any way to fix what they screwed up. Hardwood floor installation is not a job for amateurs. Make sure in addition to all of this that they do a moisture test of the slab after removing the old stuff. LOTS of slabs in our area do not have adequate vapor barriers and the stuff will crawl off the slab even if everything else is done correctly. I'm also not a fan of glue down wood floors over concrete, installing a nailing base is better in my opinion.

I personally don't like the TPR dumping into the pan because of the confusion likely when the TPR drips into the pan. Is it the TPR or the heater leaking? Also when the TPR is tested, the heater is usually sitting in a small amount of water long enough to cause rust. (everyone does test their TPR regularly, right?)

Nothing that you have asked about is normal. First the "discharge pipe" I assume you mean the Temperature Pressure Relief valve drain line should terminate at an appropriate drain, not inside the drip pan. Some areas prohibit dumping the TPR into the drip pan (all should prohibit the practice IMHO.) Then, why is there any water discharging from the TPR? The only time water should discharge from the TPR is when testing or in the case of a malfunction, which means unless you have been testing it recently, there is more wrong than just the place the pipe is terminated. If the drip pan has water, there is something wrong.

Provision for cooling unit or humidifier?

Is it brick veneer or solid? As you know, brick veneer is not a structural element, so I would not be happy if it is veneer.

I send out a "preparation for inspection" addendum along with my inspection agreement. Some times it works but mostly they don't read or bother to forward it to the sellers or their agent. But it reduces the crying when I inform them of the additional fee to come back[:-weepn]

2012 IRC E4002.11 Bathtub and shower space. A receptacle shall not be installed within or directly over a bathtub or shower stall. Arguable depending on where you place the emphasis when reading the rule as to within a bathtub... or within a bathtub... ...stall. I would call this out just like a pendant light hanging over a tub. Maybe if the tub deck was not there and it was a free standing tub a few feet away, but there is no doubt that if a window was on that wall it would have to be tempered because it forms part of the enclosure of the tub. Also, E4003.11 Bathtubs and shower areas. Cord-connected luminaries , chain-, cable-, or cord suspended-luminaries, lighting track, pendants, and ceiling -suspended (paddle) face shall not have any parts located within a zone... This zone is all encompassing and includes the area over the tub or shower... Even if it is not covered in the specifics of the code, it is a DUMB place for a TV and I am going to tell them lest their survivors come asking me why I did not warn about this!

I think the "manufactured homes" part is how they get away with it. Different rule books. My mistake, you did say "modular".

I would treat the area as if there is a moisture problem (there is) and use an appropriate vapor barrier under the flooring. There may not be enough moisture to cause a problem with the framing lumber, etc. but a real hardwood floor is much more moisture sensitive. Take precautions.

Those mechanical vents are totally OK to use... IF this is a MOBIL/Manufactured home. Otherwise it is no Bueno.

I am not a fan of flat roofing and I'm not nearly as experienced as you with flat roofs but I find "Do it right, which isn't hard, they last forever nowadays." really hard to believe unless you mean "with proper maintenance" to be added to that statement. Not trying to be argumentative, trying to learn. Please expound.

Not being all that familiar with wells, this may not be a real concern, but would the stiffness of UF cable no be a major pain to deal with in a well application?

Agreed. I suppose you could get away with high soil if there are no termites but burying the bottom of the brick here is a no-no. Of course the vast majority of foundations here are monolithic slabs and the bottom plate is usually only a couple of inches above the brick ledge.

Just don't let him talk you into "french drains". You need to move the dirt around to create drainage swales. Click to Enlarge 54.07 KB

I'm going into my third or fourth year with Streamlight Stinger DS LED after retiring my larger Streamlight to the backup. My only wish is that it was more adjustable from a tight spot to a flood setting. It is a dependable workhorse that lasts the entire day without recharging.

What about the placement of the external regulators (external to the furnaces) in close proximity to ignition sources? I'm not sure how the clearance applies to regulators serving a single appliance but on main regulators such as on LP systems a clearance from ignition sources (3'?) or a vent extension is required. I agree, I need to read up on these higher pressure systems.

I count 6 defective items, two on each furnace.

Might actually be a home warranty rather than disaster insurance.

I would suspect just rain and freeze/thaw more than "acid" rain... but what do I know? No acid rain here to deal with.

Or have an "up" arrow in the diagram.[:-dunce]

You need to check the manufacturers installation instructions but I have never seen a prohibition on installing CSST outside, nor on those valves. I would recommend rodent proofing the entry point.

Similar deal here, scrap yards require photo id and the paper trail tends to dry up the crack heads easy money stream. It is rare that I see a stolen condensing unit now.

Usually I would expect to see a dead fronqtscrewed in place to cover live parts.

Yes, mulch on all the 2x4's. A probe easily passed through the otherwise normal looking wood. The white stuff was only visible in a few locations.

Thanks for the information. It makes sense that the fungus arrived on lumber infected before being used in the house. It is rare that moisture in the air would be enough to support the entire life cycle of much of anything, including fungus. Maybe the 2x4's were wet and infected enough when the house was built so that it had enough of a start to continue feeding on the lumber but not so much that it could spread since none of the other dimensional lumber looked effected. Attics hear are hot and dry most of the year but might get enough moisture to sustain life in an unvented attic during the heating season. It just freaked me out that this was spread out over a big part of the attic.