inspector57

Is this furniture or permanently installed construction? No codes for furniture (at least none getting my comment.)

Lack of kickout flashing at the chimney. Click to Enlarge 30.03 KB

The new mortar makes me wonder if some newbie HI told them to "fully grout the beam pocket" after picking it out of canned comments from the software manufacturer.[:-censore

This was a new construction installation for LED undercounted lights at the kitchen and laundry room. I did not have access to the manual to check the listing of the equipment.

Thanks guys.

I know this is wrong, a little help in all the specifics please. I just came across two different locations with low voltage transformers supplying undercounted lights plugged into standard duplex outlets hanging inside the wall cavity with the spring loaded access covers over the rough hole in the drywall. I already have the loose outlets that must be secured to the structure. What else am I missing? Click to Enlarge 39.14 KB

Just a WAG but it looks like the red is the underlying color with paint/texture splatter over it to me.

Neat

My tablet stays in the truck or on the kitchen counter until I'm finished inspecting. Often I'm working on the report over lunch before heading to the afternoon inspection or I'm sitting in the truck waiting for the client to arrive. I tried using the tablet as I inspected but I could not get used to that. I inspect with a flashlight on one holster and camera in the other.

While I get where your coming from, I have been on both sides of the fence after doing this for 20 plus years. I started with 4 part carbonless forms and no photos, simple and effective, and the report was finished when I left the inspection. I wrote the report in long hand, few check boxes, no canned comments, but times have changed. I can deliver a better report for the client with a computer and the tablet is simply an extension of my desktop computer. I've tried many variants of laptops, pocket PC, etc. I use my tablet to record and document data.(period) Even though it has a camera, I use a real stand alone camera and upload the photos all at once. I would use my current software if only for the photo editing/uploading process, quick and painless. I have tried many times to get back to finishing and delivering the report on site, I can't get comfortable doing so no matter what process or system I have tried. My current software has that capability but "I" am not comfortable using it in that manner. So I use a hybrid process. I "write" the report to about 90% complete on site with the tablet then finish and polish it back at the office. Still the tablet is much faster for data entry for mundane repetitive stuff and pretty quick even if I have to "thumb type" something new.

I use and iPad mini (about 5x7" screen) with HIP and it seems about right for me.

Time is all relative and no general rule of thumb should be used. Have the unit serviced and determine if it is cycling on the thermostat or other safety switch. For a properly functioning system, in general "on" time for any heat source is determined both by capacity of the furnace as well as the "load" of the house in which it is installed. The "off" time is determined solely by the effective insulation of the structure in relation to the temperature difference between indoor and outdoor temperatures. So run time is determined by the furnace and off time is determined by the house. A properly sized system will run almost continuously at design temperature, which is generally the historically coldest temperature for your location.

The breaker limits the minimum wire size, not the other way around. You can over size the wire as much as you want as long as it fits in the terminal. It may not be economically feasible, but it is not prohibited. Sometimes it is even required when downrating due to heat, or length of conductor.

I've seen it before but I have no definitive answer as to the cause. I also suspect it is a misbehaving vacuum breaker at the hose bib. It reacts too quickly for it to be anything very far upstream.

Sorry, I don't have what you need but, Have you seen this? http://www.structuretech1.com/wp-conten ... ctions.pdf Failing finding an internet source, a call directly to James Hardi for a copy of the pertinent code will likely yield the desired result.

Maybe I missed it, where did he say or where do you see "bolted" connections?

AMEN

Yep, the arm is not installed correctly from what I can see. Shorten the arm to get full height and readjust the travel limit settings. Of course this answer assumes a multitude like, the height of the door and opening being within standard limits, standard garage opener size and travel, etc.

CSST in some climatic regions is pretty good stuff, with no leaks if installed properly, no rust, and robust enough for general service. To read the PR stuff it is better than rigid iron pipe in earthquake prone areas (not something I am familiar with). But when you add in lightening, it becomes enough of a problem to be concerned. Most builders here quit using it years ago, probably because of the liability and perceived problems to consumers since it was getting a bunch of press. The north Texas area provided the perfect storm as a test bed. Builders were using the stuff almost exclusively in thousands of two story mcmansions with soaring roof lines built in the middle of a flat prairie. All of the CSST pipe and metal vent stacks and metal chimneys of the gas equipment was located in the attic 30 to 40 feet in the air in and area that has just a little less lightening than coastal Florida. The houses look like a lightening rod experiment. Lots of houses burned to the ground before the fire department could respond from a lightening strike that normally would have been just minor damage. There are no real statistics because the fire departments do not report on this separately from other types of lightening damage. But it was enough of a problem that class action lawsuits were settled and millions were paid out to provide additional bonding. CSST has been a problem for years and will continue to be a problem for years to come but only a big problem in lightening prone areas.

No it is not "OK" but as others have said it might last a bit longer than a deck without the screwed on cleats. Without the cleats it is totally wrong and with the cleats it is just a little bit less wrong.

I'm with Marc, avoid CSST of any flavor until it is proved with time. In the mean time I would use copper. I would not rip it out of a house I already owned but I would not be installing it either. Part of the risk is your lightening area. Florida and Texas are high risk areas. The bonding required is accomplished by the ground wire for the attached appliances unless the manufacturer or AHJ requires a batter bond.

Guilty. But in my defense the op did say he was using HIP and wanted to change to software "A" because he wanted to use a tablet on-site, something his current software will do, an important consideration IMHO.

If you have a moisture problem, you may have a mold problem.Get rid of the moisture problem and the mold goes away. Growing ANY type of mold in your home is never a good thing, no matter the type of mold. There is no such thing as "TOXIC MOLD". Certain people may be sensitive to certain mold strains just like certain people have nut allergies. Go to the Doctor if you suspect you have an allergy and have him test and recommend treatment and identify if you want. As has been said here before, it is impossible to identify mold based on your photo. It is useless to test and identify mold. Concentrate your efforts rather on finding if you have identifiable areas of mold growing in your home and correct the moisture problem causing the mold growth. If you have mold that you can see or smell, you have a mold problem. If you have mold problem or uncertainties that you need help with, contact an Industrial Hygienist. Do NOT ask home or mold inspectors or especially mold remediation companies for testing or investigation.

HIP is available for tablets. I use my iPad mini on site and download to my desktop to finish the report at the office.

Time of day billing has been typical for commercial for years with demand meters prior to "smart" meters. I'm sure you do, but be sure you know what your power company's parameters are before addressing the need for timers. I did a conversion to timers and interlocks years ago when we first went to time of day demand billing at my church. We had no limit on demand during "off Peak" but paid the entire year for the demand portion of the bill for "on Peak" usage. The power company read the meter backwards the first several months and corrected the billing once it was brought to their attention. This really brought home the savings since the correction was several thousand dollars credit which more than paid for the conversion. I used a few low voltage relays and timers to lock out some equipment during peak hours (which also happened to be the unoccupied hours for the building) with fairly good results. Of course these were simple mechanical clocks and relays which needed attention if the power was down any length of time. But to your question, so long as the required drywall on the garage side of the wall there should not be any prohibition to your plan. "I" might lean to just attaching a thin sheet of plywood on top of the drywall rather than cutting the drywall if I planned on surface mounting since the seams will be tricky to make decent between dissimilar materials. A sheet of painted plywood with a bit of moulding might look better and would surely be faster, cleaner, and easier. JMHO