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inspector57

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Everything posted by inspector57

  1. You mean something like this except with a flat roof? Click to Enlarge 21.03 KB
  2. The classic fear is that a refrigerant leak at the evaporator coil can allow refrigerant to hit a hot heat exhanger and convert to an unpleasant (if not unhealthy) gas. Also, if the evaporator coil's condensate collection system isn't working properly, the blower can suck up the water and spray it all over the heat exchanger, accelerating corrosion. It seems I remember a requirement that the coiling coil be located down stream from the furnace but the only bad outcome I can think of is accelerated corrosion.
  3. I think you are looking at the humidifier. The blower is not actually visible if I followed the description correctly. (I had the impression that was the blower at first due to the duct from the side)
  4. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how ... -carpeting
  5. Probably the same phenomenon as ghosting on the interior with candles, etc. Dust particulates depositing unevenly due to thermal differences showing thermal bridging at studs, etc. I doubt there is foam board in those areas, but then 1/2 inch is pretty skimpy for much thermal benefit.
  6. Cutting off, maybe. Breaking off would be a bad idea since it will invariably damage the remaining slab and beam.
  7. Cars parked in the driveway might be giving you the reflected heat/light but I would not discount the nails being to tight.
  8. Maybe I answered too hastily. I took this to be a gas fired appliance unit, not unvented logs in a fireplace. IF it is a manufactured unit, then obviously the manufacturers listing would rule. If it is anything else, never mind what I said previously.[:-censore[:-paperba
  9. Different take... The cracks look like they go across the caulk/grout line at the bottom to me. Could the tile have been refinished and it is the finish that is cracking?
  10. Nope, not unless specifically called for in that manufacturers instructions. They are gas fired appliances, not fireplaces.
  11. Heat pump in heating mode effectively moves the evaporator coil to outdoors (via reversing valve) so if the unit is heating and cold ambient, there will be water at the outdoor coil.
  12. Newer code
  13. Whether he does it himself or not, it still has to be code compliant and double lugging off the main is not code compliant. There are many code compliant methods to accomplish this but the best and most simple answer is to get an electrician. The panel in a bedroom is a not issue as long as it is accessible. And yeah, what Katen said, very hard to read and understand your post.
  14. Factory weld of split buss panel. FP Stablok panel not Zinsco.
  15. TIO&SO (Tear It Out and Start Over)
  16. If you reduce it, be sure to leave it open since that is where it will clog.[:-censore
  17. Don't follow an inspectors recommendations for a repair. In my opinion, he overstepped himself by designing a repair. Get an engineer or at least a qualified contractor familiar with the work to investigate the cause of the initial problem and design an appropriate repair. My guess from my computer screen is you have expansive soils and the installation of "supplemental" girders was done wrong by not providing footings at the same depth as the original foundation which can literally cause the house to tear itself apart with seasonal movement. Bottom line you need more and better information from a qualified expert on site.
  18. Nest makes several different products that can be integrated through their app but I can find no where that they claim that the thermostats are also smoke/co detectors. Seems that they claim that the smoke detectors (not the thermostat) meets all the federal requirements. It appears to be a regular stand alone smoke alarm that is just easier to hush in some modes and is a bit smarter. Too bad your link is dead, might have been interesting.
  19. I have had sunlight at a particular time of day cause similar issues. Rare but I have seen it more than once.
  20. inspector57

    Puzzler

    Almost all modern system have a "purge" that keeps the fan running after the compressor shuts off for energy efficiency. By the time the coil has given up residual cooling, it has also given up remaining moisture on the coil. As Marc said previously, all of the water in the condensate pan and on the coil came from the air in the house so it does not "add" moisture to the house. It might not remove as much but hardly enough of a difference to be noticeable IMHO. Far more important is the presence of proper traps to facilitate condensate drainage and reduce wasted energy from lost air.
  21. 1 - yes visible moisture under the vapor barrier is ok. That is why it (the vapor barrier) is there. 2- deal with water entry from improper grading first. 3- Yes, seal the crawl space, a vented crawl space defeats the purpose of the vapor barrier. Dehumidifier may not be necessary but you can always add one later if needed. 4- Yes
  22. inspector57

    Puzzler

    Have you tried zone control dampers? Three separate zones AND continuous blower operation. Blower sucks air from return in one or more locations and pushes it ONLY to the floor in need, maybe even two stage thermostats at each level, stage one is blower only, stage two brings on a/c but only goes where it is needed. Click to Enlarge 5.63 KB Click to Enlarge 42.31 KB
  23. I think you nailed it, sprinkler.
  24. Unless they were the straight aluminum buss bars with typical breakers, It would not make my report. Got any pictures? I could be wrong but they may have made other types of panels that were not afflicted with the Zinsco panel problems.
  25. Why didn't I think of the fall safety app? Handy tool. Anybody using it?
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