Eric B

Not enough info for me. Was this found with the furnace not operating. Was it during heating or A/C mode? What were the weather conditions? Where is the evaporator coil in proximity to the furnace - up or down stream?

I'd hesitate to blame anyone or thing without conclusive info. Otherwise it'd be like a contractor outright blaming an inspector for not reporting some condition.

Since you did not say how large the cracks were I'll assume they're not very wide. Being that it is a 30 year old structure I'd be inclined to say that there was some initial settlement after construction that is no longer occurring. On the other hand, some areas of the country are experiencing unprecedented rains which has caused movement of soil that had been previously stable.

Al Ingram's opinion is actually quite useful. It reminds us that we continually need to educate people on the role of the professional inspector. So, is there a fault with Mr. Ingram or those in our field?

John - If that's a truss plate it doesn't look like the one on the left side of your photo. Click to Enlarge 22.89 KB

Is that possibly tin coated copper? Click to Enlarge 46.94 KB

That installation is a problem down the road. The problem with always depending what a code says is that they're minimalistic and do not necessarily represent best practice for the long term. Remember in school? You only needed to get a D- to pass. Click to Enlarge 26.56 KB

In regards to passive venting of an attic, I've never seen problems from too much. I'd be interested if anyone can produce a published, independent study on such an installation.

Ken, Say what you know - there's a 3" gap. If you don't know why - say cause was not determined. Then recommend further investigation. In any event I wouldn't ignore it. Some of my best writing is less than grandiose.

I get "nervous" about caulk, sealant, mastic or goop on a roof. It's a shortcut in my view. Such installations are maintenance items. I don't make big issues out of it but I do note it in the reports. As for the photo in the thread, I'd be writing for a need to correct. If I can't see what I should normally see, I'm not signing off on it.

The salt idea works great in providing channels of drainage. I speak from personal experience on this one.

I don't think that it has been mentioned but not only does the stove have to go but also the entire vent system. Stoves today are tested and rated for use with specific vents. This should be kept in mind if even a relatively new stove was being replaced. Just looking and fitting the same isn't good enough. Ever price out a new vent system?

Matthew, Yep! I don't necessarily say that it's always a problem, but I do note it in the report. I don't imagine that most people do anything about it but if a heating bubba points it out later, I want him to be the second one to do so.

Undersized ducts should be reported. They will only exacerbate other conditions such as dirty filters and blowers, limit switch settings etc as well as restrict the furnace and a/c intended function. Remember that it always goes back to what the appliance manufacturer requires and not what an inspector or HVAC tech thinks will be ok. Click to View 47.04 KB

I have seldom seen c.c.a. and it should be treated the same as solid aluminum. C.c.a. is still susceptible to heat generated by current and therefore expansion/contraction of the wire is still a concern. As for catching it in the panel - I think that it's quite likely that it could be missed by any inspector. You caught it because you were on your toes and perhaps had a bit of luck on your side. Nice job! I hope the client paid you well for that inspection, it was certainly deserved.

My house is wrapped in Tyvek under cedar siding. If I had it to do over again, I'd install felt paper instead, then ferring strips then the cedar. To be sure, my house would be the only one done that way for miles around and would be the first such installation for the contractor. Tyvek has its applications but house wrap isn't one of the better ones. Just try to convince an installer of that.

Which raises the issue over residential hydro-massage tubs and their intake covers. Image Insert:

I think that when you've done enough inspections, a visual observation can identify rot before the surface is even probed.

I bought their $200 snake about a year ago at a conference - still have yet to really use it. Perhaps if I had spent $600 I would have 3x the use.

Why would you want to avoid recommending a contractor's evaluation for a needed repair. Would you expect him to make a correction without looking over the conditions? Too many contractor's come in with the blinders on - they really don't take the time to see what is present. Recommending the evaluation takes the burden off my shoulders. I am sometimes purposely vague in a report (i.e. "Kickout flashings are missing".) - the idea is to make the contractor look a little harder. I tell clients why I do this and they always understand. When a contractor calls and says he can't find the condition I pretty much know that his qualifications are lacking. When I cannot conclusively rule out that a repair is needed, I'll also recommend the evaluation. The idea is to have an "expert" take more time than I have to look over the condition(s) - after all, I only have so much time to go through the entire home and spending a half hour on one issue is not always practical.

People don't have time anymore for in depth information. Look what its reduced the Chicago Tribune's new format to - pretty pathetic. It's no wonder that people don't want to wait around for some 3 hour inspection. And read the report? You gotta be kidding!

I think that the meter can be useful when you're looking for a little additional info to something else already found. Image Insert: 169.35 KB

Mark: I rarely use the SureTest. I seem to stay with just a few tried and true items for regular use - though it's worth having some of the extra stuff. Anyway, a reliable source for electric info has told me that we can fudge on the voltage drop up to about 10 percent - that 5 is a bit low for the real world. On the few times that I do find a high drop I write it for what it is - a voltage drop of ----% was found at ---, have electrician ....... Now, do I expect that the electrician will know what I'm talking about? Not really - it's one reason I don't measure for VD.

The CSIA can accept the lack of parging but they want the cores filled.

I can't think of any reason other than something hot was placed on top of those cables.