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There is a requirement that lights over tubs and showers be listed as OK for wet locations but often such a label can not be found during a home inspectiopn. I am seeing recessed incandescent lights in newer homes over tub/showers with no protective covers. This would seem to be a hazard mainly from bulbs breaking. Are there any uncovered lights approved for use over tubs?

If the amount on the "contract" is 0, then there really is no contract as there is no consideration (the bargained for exchange). If there is a post closing problem with the inspection, the buyer has no recourse against the inspector. The person who "paid" for the inspection has no recourse either since they did not sign the "contract" The contract should be signed by the buyer or their legal representative with the amount clearly written on the contract. Once the inspection is completed and paid for, it really does not matter who paid for it. The inspection is done, the inspector has been paid, and there is a binding contract between the inspector and buyer who signed the contract.

It does for a prefab.

Let's remember that there have been numerous NEC and other code changes over the years. Unless one knows when a subject installation was installed, has the past code books and is willing to look up the applicable code to back up a finding, I do not think the item should be written up as needing correction.

Some plumbers have for some time been using PEX, and PB before that, to plumb shower controls and faucets. The problem is that the flimsy metal straps they use to hold the fixtures allow a lot of play, when using them, that could cause behind-the-wall pipe damage at the fittings. Used to be, fixtures were anchored on 2x4 stock between studs. Anyway, I write them up as needing securing and sealing, to prevent pipe damage and moisture getting behind the tub. Last time I dinged a home for this, a licensed plumber went out there and said it was fine - didn't need fixing. Egg on my face, until it leaked the next year, then it was egg on plumber. Another plumber I know says straps are time savers and get used to it. The municipal inspectors say that as long as they are fastened, it's okay and it doesn't matter how much. I do not want to get into the how loose is too loose game. It depends how hard you pull. It's a dilemma as usual, Does it need fixing or is this now accepted practice?

OK already, I recommended new stairs and even told them how to build them to comply with NC Res. Code. Thanks fot input.

Unless I saw problems with moisture or rot, I would point out importance of sealing areas of moisture entry in your pictures then go on to say this is a visual inspection only. For a complete Stucco inspection of wall cavities, etc., consult a stucco inspector.

Thanks Jim, Answer is what I needed but I could just see guy out their building those steps with his kid and being so proud. This will be good learning experience for him. No landing required if door swings in in NC. Storms and screen doors are also exempt.

6 year old home, with rear patio and door about 18 inches the ground. Looks like the owner just built a nice new set of steps, actually very sturdy with a railing and all. Problem is, rise of 2 bottom steps is 8" and top step rise is only 4 inches. It's a code violation but I'm not a code inspector. Is this really a safety hazard warranting redoing steps. Opinions? Download Attachment: 061116dan 006.jpg 137.54 KB

I'd have to see cover off right panel but I think (that usually means trouble) all may be well. That is a little transformer under the service conductors. I saw one of these set ups a long time ago, spent a long time on it checking what went where, sizes etc., and it was OK. You are right on for sending it to a shocker though if you are not sure. Try to be there when he is there and learn what you can. Why update if it is functioning as intended with no hazards observed.

I don't like anything you spray on or completely coat a house with without allowing a pathway for the escape of moisture that might get in thru small gaps, crevices, etc. Sounds like trouble if not applied right. With a background in materials, I have trouble accepting the r-value claims.

There are mold and termite guys running around the charlotte, nc area telling people to close foundation vents to keep humid air out. Well, unless crawl floor and foundation walls are sealed and I mean sealed, disaster occures after a few summers. When I walk the perimeter and see closed vents, I know trouble is coming. Mold, rot, fallen insulation. It is true we get high moisture readings during humid weather, but it is not enough or prolonged enough to cause any damage. A properly ventilated crawl with a decent vapor barrier and no abnormal moisture entry due to grading or footer drain problems is best left to ventilate naturally during the year with all vents open. Now, properly bulit closed crawl spaces are a whole nother matter and are great if done right.

I did the pre-drywall and later final inspection on a new home for an elderly couple. The builder was a pain. Made me present license, proof of liability ins, etc. I did final, couple was to move in 2 days later. Builder (large nationwide) was done with their final "quality check" and all was well. The water heater was not installed during pre-dry but attic vent piping was in attic over garage and was easy to see at that point, OK. At my final, viewing would have been another matter, attic was way around corner from access hole, fresh deep blown in insulation, nowhere to step. But you know how it is, just gotta go there, don't ya. Well I went, and the water heater installer must have yank down so hard on the flue pipe to make it fit on his water heater, it came loose at a joint, and now it vents into attic. Lots of hot moist air to rot out everything not to mention CO and fire hazard. The couple would not have known until something bad happened and it would have. Builder's rep was like, "no big deal" we'll fix it. I got so mad, I wrote every government code and license board I could. Hope they get 'em. New construction here in the hot area around charlotte has really gone to the dogs. No question, I just needed to vent. No pun intended! Download Attachment: 061012ada 006.jpg 150.21 K

Ungrounded GFCI outlets are fine and common in old ungrounded systems, but MUST be labeled "No Equipment Ground". If a homeowner does not know it is ungrounded and plugs in a surge protector, their $10,000 worth of electronics could go poof from a line surge because surge protectors need a ground to work. Problem is, most homeowners don't know this either so we must kindly educate them. Also, when when checking these, tester will not trip them, but they still must trip when you press the GFCI "test" button.

It's the electrician's preference in our area. Personally, I think smile is better, ground on bottom because grounded plugs stay in better. Less chance for arcing, etc. from loose plugs. Ever see a fridge plug with the wire coming off the top and all bent around. Not good. Some electricians around here put smile on all but switched outlets, which is great because it makes them easy to identify and will just have 2 prong light cords plugged in anyway. Smile![:-alien]