Steve Boozer

Being in the roofing industry for the past 19 years, I can say with all likely hood if the roof has 3 layers, it probably is leaking in places. You may not see the water coming thru the attic, but water will be in between the layers. If it's a ranch with a lower pitch (maybe a 5/12) it should have a hump at the gutter line that will be the main problem. I often get called in to check a roof during the selling process. When it is not repairable and the buyer and seller go back and forth, I recommend for them to split the cost which sounds like is exactly what you have done. It's not a new new house so why should it have a brand new roof and you have to pay for all of it??

See it all the time here. The builders want have the roof put on first to get the house dry and then brick it afterwards. Roofers usually put some cheap J channel in, but it won’t work that way and over time the shingles ruffle up when things settle. The roofing company is supposed to send someone back out once the brick is laid to cut back the shingles and install a flashing system. But if the builder is not willing to pay for a good roofing company that does this, thuis is what you end up with. Really bad deal since it normally lets water into the wall cavities where it can't get fresh air in to dry out. Every one of these walls should be red flagged except maybe Bains pic. Gets very little water on the returns, so probably just some caulk there.

Mark. I don't think Donald is talking about the missing corners at the top right of each tile. The manufacturer shaves off this corner and the bottom left corner so they can overlap. http://www.classicslateandtile.com/images/sfsclose.jpg He's talking about how some of the tiles chip at this corner.

Don’t know about the rest of this roof, but the skylight is obviously leaking and has rotted the decking. Usually we will replace the shingles (gaf Golden Cedar or o/c desert tan 3 tabs) around the skylight going down to where the gutter normally is. Replace the rotted plywood. It’s best to replace the skylight. Looks like a 22 ½ x 46 ½ Exarc Brand Tinted acrylic with bronze frame. You can step flash the sides on these units and install and up and over back pan to case of the back of the skylight and eliminate the need for the diverter above. I usually like to catch anything close like that wall. They can cut the siding off the roofline and install new shingles and step flashing from top to bottom to make sure it is not a problem. Sorry, no pics of skylights, but here is a pic. a wall. Download Attachment: IM000135.JPG 65.55 KB

Not sure if it's right or wrong and guessing everyone may have a different opinion. We've done it on several really old houses with plank decking. Replacing the decking would be best of course, but if you take the plank decking off, then you open up a can of worms. By the time you fix all the rafters and put the new decking down it would cost the homeowner an arm and a leg. So we have been putting down a 1/4 sheet of Luan plywood. Using an automated screw gun to fasten it with. I tell the guys to put a small gap where the sheets join so it can expand. Using 1/4 inch longer than normal roofing nails might be an idea to. Download Attachment: 14 ply over plank.JPG 77.54 KB

Here's a blurred finished pic. I was mainly just saying if they just cut the sidewall flashing to fit the corner and then install the pan, it leaves a gap where they meet. But if you leave out the last piece or two of step at the corner, then run the two courses of shingles past the corner, and then install the pan. Now you can cut and install your step flashing to perfectly fit the corner since the gap has been created. On a back pan on a chimney you don't need this method. But I see gaps all the time at dead pocket corners and cricket corners, so I'm trying to get the guys to do it like this. I usually only put ice and water in the valleys and not on walls since I've never seen a properly step flashed wall leak. If I do a dead pocket corner to the gutter, I do put ice and water there though. And yea, never see soldered corners here. Download Attachment: IM000344.JPG 63.74 KB

Na. That's my point. Cut it tight, overlap it, then you really don't need to caulk it underneath. But if debris piles up below the corner, the caulk is a little extra protection.

I'm trying to teach my guys to leave out the last piece or two of step flashing when running the sidewalls at the corners of crickets and dead pockets. Then run two courses of shingles past the corner. Then install the metal pan / modified at the corner. Doing it this way ceates the gap that the roofer should understand he needs to perfectly fill with the side wall step flashing. Once installed you can tuck the caulk gun underneath and caulk the tight gap where they join. Comments? Download Attachment: IM000338.JPG 53.25 KB Download Attachment: IM000339.JPG 94.1 KB

Great call Tom. I've seen this multiple times here in Ga. I did not read the link, but as soon as I saw Ricks pic, I knew what it was. It always appeared to be Genstar brand shingles that were the problem here. Then I think they became GS, then were bought out by Certianteed and then discontinued. I could always tell by the specific color down here, but the color in Ricks pic is not the color I'm used to.

Cool, I got it on the first try.

Test picture: Download Attachment: BadlyChewedLeadBoot.JPG 202.06 KB