dtontarski

Mike - Thanks for looking into this. This is the first Bulderus boiler I have run into. I recorded the engraved model number and serial number "exactly" as they appeared on the unit. Who would of thunk that they had multiple tags and model numbers and serial numbers? Bunch of bul. I have a call into the manufacturer now to see if anyone in their customer service group can fill in the blanks based on the tag #'s I recorded. If and when they get back to me I will share whatever I'm told with the forum. Thanks again for all of your contributions to the forum. Dave Tontarski

Can anyone help me identify the date of this Buderus Boiler? Model #: 04.32/23 Serial #: 04.32-3-3-801 Thanks!

A big fan of Douglas Hansen, I shot him an e-mail on this topic. He substantiated what everyone else it saying and what I suspected - this is an "inspection myth". There is nothing in the codes and standards supporting this. Douglas explained that these neutrals are coiled to support a tidier installation. Standard and best practice is to always follow the manufacturer's installation instructions, and so far, no one I have run this pass has ever seen this requirement documented. I have a good memory - photographic but slightly out of focus - I never saw this documented before. I decided to post this because a few of the more seasoned inspectors at my meeting acted like they knew this myth to be a rule when it was presented. Now I take it that maybe this is a local myth being perpetuated by local electrical inspectors. Now I've got a new story to tell my clients when I find issues in panels that should not have passed an electrical inspection. This will help to sell that these electrical inspectors don't always know all of the facts.

Mike, I visited a few sites too and read through PDF's of installation instructions and found nothing on this. I e-mailed the inspector and requested a source on this. I will post whatever I learn. Maybe one of TIJ's pundits will log on and have something to add on this. Dave

This was presented to my local ASHI chapter by a representative from a reputable company that does municipal inspection contract work over a 6-state area. I will get in touch him and seek a reference. I owe him a call regarding Doug Hansen's book. I explained to him that this would be a good read for him, as home inspectors approach things differently from code inspectors.

This is a new one on me - A local electrical inspector claimed that the coiled wires (pigtails) on GFCI & AFCI circuit breakers must be straightened out when these breakers are installed. The claim was that these are only coiled to facilitate packaging. Any validity to this claim?

Thanks for the replies. Yes 3-double tapped circuit breakers in all, and the grounded conductors and ground wires are all under the same screws. I recommended a professional electrician be called in for these reasons and several other conditions I observed. (The grounded conductors and ground wires are together on 95%+ of the main service panels I inspect in this area.) This is the first time I have seen the doubled up 12 gauge wires on a 30 amp circuit breaker. I assumed it was wrong due to the fundamental reasons that both double tapping and 12 gauge on 30 amp circuit breakers are generally wrong, but no sense risking assumptions when I have this opportunity to run issues by the pros that monitor and contribute to this forum. I figured one of the seasoned pros might chime in with an obscure rule exception where this would be acceptable and enlighten us all.

Is there any scenario where installing (double tapping) 2-12 gauge wires on a 30-amp circuit breaker would be correct? The panel did not have an accurate circuit directory, and tracing the circuits this breaker protected was not possible. Download Attachment: Alex 038.jpg 216.3 KB

Thanks!

Can anyone advise me on how to extract the age from these numbers: Model Number: MKPS334680 Serial Number: N2AHD14A06A Thanks.

Thanks

Thanks guys

I have a seller, which happens to be a broker all bent out of shape because I called out that this section of gutter should be monitored. I called this out as steel - it was not reachable for a close inspection. He insist that all of the home's gutters are new copper components. This looks like steel corrosion to me. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Also the downspout directly beneath this appears to be silver beneath the paint. I assumed that copper gutters would be copper in color. Did I assume wrong on this? Download Attachment: Gutter Material.jpg 81.2 KB

This is a first for me - the homeowner has installed what appears to be insulated drop ceiling panels in the attic on top of a couple layers of batt insulation (both with vapor retarding facings). Other than the multiple vapor retarders and the chance of this trapping moisture, does this pose a fire safety hazard? Are the white facings on these panels combustible? Is there some rule or some code that prevents this use of these panels? Any facts or insights would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave Tontarski Advanced Home Awareness Home Inspections Download Attachment: Insulated Panels.jpg 56.97 KB

Thanks everyone - this has all been included in my report. My thought exactly on the conversion. The installed boiler has an 86.2 A.F.U.E. I don't imagine that it will maintain this efficiency after the conversion.

I had the opportunity to inspect a fine 1930 Tudorbethan (Tudor Revival) the other day which has a relatively new boiler being used to supply the home's original steam radiators. Everything seems to be working fine. My client (the buyer) has stipulated that they require the buried oil tank to be removed and the boiler be converted to natural gas. They asked if I could make some specific recommendations regarding guidelines for tank removal in my report. They want to make sure this is done right and that they don't face any environmental liabilities in the future. Any guidance on this would be appreciated. (also any related info on oil to gas conversion would be appreciated if issues are known) Thanks! Dave Tontarski Advance Home Awareness Download Attachment: Molly & Michael 001.jpg 140.11 KB

Thanks for all of your suggestions and advice. This is the first panel that I have not opened on an inspection (except for one really nasty looking FPE) I did not open this one due to it being right on a newly painted wall in the kitchen and the assumptions, that as Les pointed out, I should not have made. Sounds like I was overly concerned about paint damage. Dave Tontarski Advanced Home Awareness Home Inspections

Les, Thanks. "I would not make any assumptions" - thanks I need to keep reminding myself of that one. It will be interesting to hear what some of the others have to say. Dave

What do you do when you find a heavily painted over service panel cover - multiple layers of paint around all edges, plus the screw slots not even visible due to thickness of paint? This was right on the kitchen wall in a Townshouse. I calculated that it would be impossible to open without making a mess of the wall. Other factors - 20 year old home with no apparent modifications. It doesn't look like the cover was ever removed. No other electrical issues were observed. I told my client that I would be glad to return to inspect it providing the cover was either removed by the current owner or with permission to do paint damage after they had moved in. What does everyone else do in this situation? Thanks, Dave Tontarski Advance Home Awareness Home Inspections

Thanks Brandon.

I've got a photographic memory....it's just not always in sharp focus.... I remember seeing an excellent explanation of why pressure treated deck support post should not be embedded in concrete. It spoke of this leading to the failure of the concrete. I understand the jist of this, it just tweaks me that I can't find the post. I could not find this discussion with a search. Does anyone remember this post? Or, could who ever posted this great explanation re-post it? I see this method of construction all of the time, and I want to assure that I'm explaining the issues as clearly as possible. Thanks! Dave Tontarski Advance Home Awareness Home Inspections

As posted by Erby • more than one “grounded conductorâ€

Thanks!

I believe this has been discussed on this forum before, but my search for this past discussion wasn't successful. My recommendation that neutrals and grounds be isolated in a sub-panel with the installation of a separate bonded terminal bar for the grounds resulted in the home owner gathering all of the grounds and installing them under a single bonded lug. I couldn't make out the labeling on the lug regarding wire gauge and number of conductors it was rated for. Is this acceptable? If not - why and what code does it violate? Download Attachment: Clump of grounds in lug.jpg 62.62 KB

I've got it about splices now - yes it was a thread that Jerry Peck was involved with and his opinion was debated. Thanks clarifying the splice issue for me. Regarding nuisance tripping - When I used the term nuisance tripping I was referring to how it was used, without being corrected, earlier in the thread. I interpreted that this would mean that with two wires connected to a single breaker, there would be the possibility that both of these wires were heavily loaded with outlets and the possibility was higher that a heavier demand would be placed on a single breaker protecting all of these outlets - thus tripping it - and this being a nuisance. I guess I always figured there may be a good reason for nuisance tripping other that the breaker being defective, and that in a case like this (2 runs of outlets connected to one breaker), that perhaps just replacing the breaker (that maybe isn't defective) wouldn't resolve the issue. Lots of terms and phrases are used here. I'm still in the process of learning how to use these correctly. Is there such a term as nuisance tripping, or should I remove this from my vocabulary? If there is such a term - what is the correct definition?