Thanks so much for the input! Too bad about that tube dripping directly on the top. I think most of the crud just comes from mineral deposits from boiling water dry thousands of times, but it has definitely caused the top of the exchanger to rust. I'm not sure how long it has been since the humidifier was last used. At least 30 years I'd say, since I'm good friends with the previous owner and I don't think they ever used it.
The heating\plumbing guy did set the gas valve by ear\sight so most likely it is fine. It's been through two winters since then and it hasn't been nearly as hot. I do notice that when the "Warm Air Control" thermostat turns the fan back off after it has been running (after the burner has been off for a few minutes), it has a tendency to turn the fan back on within a minute or so, as if the heat that has saturated into the exchanger has heated up the inside of the system again. I doubt this is a sign of any kind of problem, but it is the only recurring "issue" with the system. I can just lower the fan temperature some more, but it already blows a bit of not-so-warm air after it has cooled, so I'm not sure if it's worth it.
As for the flame color... it's a bit hard to show on video but I took this last year.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/gdtwH96m7Sv4Sbub6
It's pretty close to how it looks in that video. Listen to it with some good speakers or headphones and feel the rumble. It's quite an impressive (and terrifying) home heating appliance. 😉
Maybe you can help with one concern I have had about this due to something that happened shortly after I started using it during the first winter. I heard the furnace running\burning but it seemed like the fan wasn't running when it should. I went down stairs and was horrified to hear the motor running but not blowing... the wheel that the belt wraps around had actually slipped off the spindle (I think that's what the shaft protruding from the motor is called), so there was nothing to turn the belt to run the fan. I was able to fix it after some aggravating contorted hammering with my body half inside the thing, and I made sure to adjust the belt after following some instructions I found. Most likely it was too tight before and caused the wheel to pull off over time. Anyway... if this happens again for some reason, does it appear that the temperature controller is wired in such a way that it will shut off the gas valve in the event of unchecked overheating like this? I believe it is, but I'm not 100% sure. I see one circuit inside the unit labeled "limit" and one labeled "fan".
EDIT: I'm an idiot. There is literally a diagram on the front of the unit showing this exact FL-1 fan+limit control in the power circuit for the device. Come to think of it, I believe it was turning on and off without blowing the fan, which is what tipped me off that something was wrong. So, nevermind. I just had think back two years. Crazy to think we moved in here just a few short months before the pandemic hit. No wonder it's all a blur.