
Martin Lehman
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Everything posted by Martin Lehman
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I just googled "foundation benching" and guess what came up... []
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So where is the weep screed? If it is just like stucco, is the weep screed also required?
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New construction - 2006. I am concerned about the flashing details with this metal roof. I can't remember the last one I saw, but these seem like they will leak in sooner than later, as they are "sealant dependant". Is this the norm with metal roofing? I am currently looking for install instructions but having no luck. Thanks I cannot upload pics!!!
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Initial office visits with Realtors -what to give
Martin Lehman replied to CheckItOut's topic in Marketing Techniques
CN Bad joke -
Do any of you guys use a manometer aka water level to see if a foundation is out of level??
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Scott, my monthly bill averages about $110 for $3.50/click. I am usually in the top 4-5 listings. Its fairly competitive for my keywords, and I believe the top spot pays around $10/click.
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PPC has worked fairly well for me. I put a whole lot of work into my website and it has produces most of my business. To answer your question, if you're not on the first page, dont count on getting any calls. At a minimum you need to be on the first page if not the top. I have optimized my site well, and now have a top spot on google in the organic rankings for my keywords "san diego home inspection". Your site will need some work, it needs to be more personal and needs to get the lookers pumped so they call, and not just to ask, "how much?" but to call and book the inspection. It hard work and takes time and editing, but it pays off.
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Brad, what does the RE lawyer specialize in?
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Those of you who get business from lawyers, what type of lawyers are they and how much business do they give you? How do you go about marketing to them?
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Does anybody know if there is a manual on how to properly install asphalt shingles, that is basically "code"? Something that is looked to as the golden stadard that I can reference to in my reports. Thanks
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So you guys can perform an entire inspection without taking any notes...I'm impressed. If it really cuts down time on site by as much as 50% in some cases, I'm going to give it a go. I have found myself taking longer and longer on site lately, not sure why. I spent about 5.5 hrs on a 1940, 1300sqft house & crawl space - way too long. And then the report took me about 4 hours - I can't make a living like this!! QUESTION: How much longer, if any, does it take you guys to write the report if you dont have any written notes? QUESTION: Kurt, what is the actual model. Is it the Panasonic TZ1S 5MP 2.5" 10x Optical 40x Total Image Stabilizer? Costco has it on sale with a 2GB card for $200 The tough thing around here are the crawl spaces though - all the crawling in dirt destroys more cameras than anything else.
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Those of you who just use camera, I have some questions. 1. Once you're done with the inspection, get home at the end of the day, how do you remember what the picture was taken for?? Do you just look at the picture and write down what you see, or do you remember everything?? 2. When taking pics of different defects, do you point to the defect?? So yo know what the pic is for?? 3. What about informational stuff like taking the model # of the furnace, A/C, or the type of conductors in the panel, or the type of roof gutters, drainage, etc.??
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Is there an actual code in the IRC or UBC that states hip rafters(like ridge rafters)shall be framed directly opposite each other? Or is this not an issue at the roof hip? Donald, do you have any pics of hip and valley rafters braced at the peak? I dont understand.
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I am having a hard time coming up with the correct diagnosis for the hip rafter framing. Suggestions please?? The roof is framed primarily with trussses but for the hips and rafters. Download Attachment: RoofFraming.JPG 6.5 KB Download Attachment: RoofFraming2.jpg 45.02 KB Download Attachment: RoofFraming3.jpg 33.76 KB Download Attachment: RoofFraming4.jpg 58.79 KB Download Attachment: RoofFraming5.jpg 51.24 KB
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We have a lot af a/c condensate lines out here that are tapped into the lavatory drain pipe, upstream of the trap. Now, since there is no air-gap, this would be considered a direct connection right? I have also seen a/c condensate lines that are connected directly into a dedicated trap. There is no air-gap and the trap has a primer to keep the seal. This is a direct connection and I call it out. Is there really a difference between these two configurations? They are both connected to the drainage system WITHOUT AND AIR-GAP. I get this from the Code Check books: It says that the configuration of the condensate line to the lavatory drain is ok because it is an indirect receptor . Well were the heck is the air-gap between the connection - There is none. The same book also says that there are no direct connections to be made between the condensate line and drainage system. Well isnt the configuration of the condensate line to the lavatory drain a direct connection since there is no air-gap? Puzzled...
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Hi, I have 2 questions: 1) Can somebody please explain to me what the difference is between a DIRECT CONNECTION and and INDIRECT CONNECTION? I dont get it. What makes a connection to the waste system indirect and what makes a connection to the waset system a direct connection? I have a feeling it has to with an air-gap, but I am not sure. 2) Now, what about an indirect receptor and a direct receptor? Thanks
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Raised foundation; There are post/pier supports on this raised foundation that have footings and look fine, however there are quite a few of these other posts which are bearing on top of a piece of 2x6 with no footing. Each one of these has a 2x4 nailed to the top of the post just under the joists. These look a little funny to me, maybe a homeowner project to keep the floor above from squeaking? What are these for? Have you seen this before? Is this an accepted practice? Thanks
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Well, the HVAC tech could not pin point the cause for the terrible smell, he just said it was an old unit, the heatx is rusted, old and in bad shape. He just wanted to replace it. As for CO detectors, no I do not own any, although I am going to get a couple along with new smoke detectors. Also so caulking for the joint between the furnace and return plenum. Oh and weather strip for the closet door (the return is directly under the closet door - gotta make sure it's sealed tight!) As for pulling the blower, and inspecting the heatx, that would take at least a good 30-45 min. for me if not more. I would not do it on a home inspection, its too hard to inspect the heatx, beacuse its not fully visible - at all. And especially the furnaces that are located in the attic...and in the summer time - no way.
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Hey guys thanks for all the help.[:-thumbu] I went ahead and did everything you guys suggested. No dead animals in the flue pipe, it vented well, nothing clogging it, thank God. No leaks in the duct system, no tears, and no disconnections - the ducts look sound. So my next step was to check the heat X. While the furnace was running, I felt around exterior of the furnace housing for a hot spot - what do you know I found one, way in the back of the furnace. This area was much hotter to the touch than any other area of the furnace housing. So to confirm my suspicions, I started taking the furnace apart piece by piece trying to get a better look at the heat x. I took off the draft hood and did not see any cracking, just a whole lot of old and rusted heat x. Next I decided to pull the blower. So I get the blower out and this thing is absolutely filthy (the prior tenants did not understand that there was supposed to be a filter over that big hole under the blower[:-censore). I stick my head up to look at the heat x and there are no holes visible. However, I could not see the back of the heat x where there was that really hot spot I felt. So I grab a mirror and after twisting and turning for what seemed like forever, there it was a large crack about 3 inches long, with about 1/4 inch wide gap. The next day we had a tech out to replace the old beater with a nice new furnace. No more odors, the new furnace works great.....but....I know I am a perfectionist but the blower that they installed it louder than the last one. Its not that big a deal, it's just kinda loud, where the old blower was not. [:-spin][:-spin][:-spin]
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Thanks for the help guys. FWIW, I am a member of CREIA (california real estate inspection assoc.)and we have an affiliate member who only inspects pools and he makes a killing. His name is RickEnglish. Basically all of us members who dont inspect pools defer to him - and he does an excellent job, much more detailed than any home inspector around. Oh, and he charges more than most of us inspectors charge to inspect the entire house!! And he's booked - go figure... I think you're on to something with the heat exchanger inspections, could be pretty lucrative.
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I'm going to have San Diego Gas & Electric inspect the furnace, test for gas leaks and for CO in my home and go from there. Dead animal in the vent pipe huh.....looks like I'm going on the roof tonight! The vent is a straight shot from the furnace through the roof, except for one 45 degree bend just after the vent connector.
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Forced air unit (fau) I sure hope it's not the Heat exchanger...............$$$$$$....................[:-weepn] Thanks guys
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Thanks for the fast reply Les, I did not think to check the fan speed although I do get a sufficent flow of air through the registers. I have been plannig to replace the filter, but it is not really too dirty. Can I adjust the speed of the blower motor? I dont have the manu. for this FAU. No, I have not taken a CO test yet. I dont have a CO tester, better pick one up with that new filter.
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I just fired up my gas fired furnace last night and it freekin smells terrible! I have lived in my home since July of this year and have never use the FAU before (only the A/C). 1100sqft condo built in 1980. FAU is an older Trane model I visually checked out the furnace and everything looks good(flame, filter, flue pipe, comb. air), being that the unit is around 25yrs old. Anyway, what is the reason for this terrible smell? It smells like the ducts are filthy and all the dust and dirt are burning off.??? Well I ran the furnace for about 45 min and the smell did not get any better, so I had to turn off the furnace. QUESTION: What the heck do you think this is? Are the ducts just really dirty inside and need to be cleaned? Do I need new ducts? Or is it something else? My wife is pregnant and due in a couple weeks. We are really going to need heat and air quality that is acceptable in our home. Thanks
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Thanks allspec. I have been looking through all the posts on pools and spas as I am starting to get into pool inspections - I am tired of loosing business because of it. What a great forum this is, and what an excellent teacher Norm was, sorry to hear he passed away. RIP