Whalen68

I have a 10 x 15 foot room that used to be a screened porch. It was bricked in many years ago by a previous occupant. The ceiling was in horrible shape. I removed it. Now I have 2 x 8 horizontal trusses and 2x4 supported roof deck. How should I insulate this before I close it back up?

I want to save money and stay away from spray foam, can someone recommend how I should insulate walls and peaks?

My master bathroom is the furthest from the water heater. I am looking for suggestions on recirculating the water that is wasted as we wait for the hot water to get there. Also, any suggestions at all to make this more efficient?

The house is an 1889 Victorian with ornate everything. In between the two closets I have a fireplace mantel. I will be painting the woodwork white and want to incorporate the closets into the scheme. I am thinking a paintable plywood would be a better fit than drywall.

I am building two interior closets using metal studs. Instead of dry wall I would like to cover with paintable plywood. Can anyone recommend type, thickness and how to affix to the metal studs? Thanks

Another project on my 1889 Victorian is to do a better job conditioning the attic space. Although I do not have immediate plans to convert it to a living space, I do need to address insulation and window replacement. For now, windows are my priority. I have three pairs of double hung wood frame windows. Extremely inefficient single pane glass in various stages of operability. I want to go with the wooden double hung window concept but I need insulating glass and a screen in order to ventilate the space. I want to be able to paint the exterior to match the rest of the house. I realize these have to be custom. Would anyone recommend a vendor out there? I am in the Columbus Ohio area.

Yes, I definitely will. Aside from the size of the door, I need to be concerned with the interior side (framing). It is antique and encases the door and a transom window. I'd like to not have to mess with making any adjustments there

The door width is exactly 33.5 inches.

I need to replace an exterior door. I'd like to replace this old wooden exterior door with a newer prehung door that will not only look better but would be more efficient. The problem I have is that it is 33.5 inches wide. Should I be looking for a 34 inch or 36 inch door?

Here's a picture. I forgot to include it with the original post. The gouge is on the top side of the dish. I am puzzled how it happened. I was not in the house when this occurred. Anyhow, I am not terribly concerned about a perfect match. I only want to get close to the existing color. More importantly, I want to get a smooth surface. Right now, you run the risk of cutting a finger. I appreciate the advice.

My shower has a matching soap dish that has a nasty gouge right through the center. It is rather shallow but I would like to fill it with a matching grout. If I use grout should I use should I use sanded or unsanded? Are there other option to fill the gash with something other than grout? Do I need to use some type of adhesive or cleaner before application? I appreciate the assist.

I have four separate rooms in the basement of an 1889 home in Ohio. The basement rooms have brick floors and the walls are limestone. I only use the areas for storage of certain items and for the kids to run around occasionally. I want to add humidifier(s) to the area. My question has to do with disposing of the water. I can run waste hoses to the outside but I am concerned about freezing in the colder weather and accumulating too much standing water around the foundation. I do not have a drain/trap in the area at all. Is there any way to force this water through an existing waste drain? I have an HVAC system near, washing machine drain (ceiling height), etc.

I have a new bathroom in an old (1889) Victorian on the second floor. Of course the hot water heater is a distance away in the basement. I get hot water but never enough and it takes too long. I am considering running a small tankless unit for this one room. Recommendations?

I appreciate the feedback, If I went with an insert, with glass front, will I get heat in the room?

I own an 1889 Victorian home in southern Ohio with six fireplaces. Three down and three upstairs (bedrooms). The previous owner brought gas intro the three downstairs, installed gas logs and all is well with the exception of some white/black residue that falls within the chimney. It is more annoying than anything else. Question #1: Other than capping the chimney what can be done to the interior of the chimney to stop this residue? Question #2: The upstairs fireplaces need converted as well. Would you recommend vented or unvented logs?