Brandon Chew

To get the latest info from EPA about radon and granite countertops: Start here: USEPA Indoor Air Quality Once you are on that page, select FAQs up near the top of the page. Once on the FAQ page, pick "radon" in the "search by product" box and type "granite" (without the quotes) in the keyword box. Hit "search" and you'll find a FAQ titled "What about radon in granite countertops?" which, as I write this, was last updated on 7/29/2008. (I could not get a direct link to the FAQ to work)

My 10 year old son was looking over my shoulder while I was reading and scrolling down this thread. When I came to this photo he immediately exclaimed "Oh, that's not good!" He's well on his way to being a great inspector some day.... [:-graduat FYI - that looks like a 250 gallon tank. When full, there is about 1500 pounds of fuel oil in there. P.S. - a rusty leg like that one would have me on high alert looking for water intrusion in that area of the room.

If you have another receptacle in the garage that is not protected by a GFCI, you should have a GFCI installed on it. If your freezer is causing a GFCI to trip, your freezer has a ground fault. You should either have the freezer repaired or replace it, so that you don't get a nasty shock some day when you are a better path to ground than the equipment grounding conductor. The garage is not required to be on a different circuit than the basement. Receptacles in unfinished basements and garages are required to be protected by GFCIs. More than one receptacle can be protected by one GFCI. There used to be an exception to the GCFI requirements in garages for receptacles that were not readily accessible or that were dedicated to an appliance that was not easily movable (like a freezer), but those exceptions were removed in the 2008 NEC. There were similar exceptions for receptacles in basements, but as of the 2008 NEC the only one that remains is for a permanently installed burglar or fire alarm.

In my opinion, if you are inspecting a new home and you are not providing references to code, NAHB or similar guidelines, the JLC Field Guides, or manufacturers installation instructions then you are handing your client a gun loaded with blanks. That is similar to the way that I do it. I have both: software version and paper code book. I use both -- frequently. I think it is a worthwhile investment to have both. When I'm looking for something specific and I can think of some good keywords to find it, I use the software version. I also use it when I want to copy and paste. If I'm not sure what I'm looking for or if I am browsing to learn or study something, I prefer the paper version. It also comes in handy to raise the height of your monitor on your desk or to cure the occasional bout of insomnia. If you are getting the software version of the ICC model codes (as opposed to the version adopted by your state), get the "I-Quest" version instead of the PDF version. It costs a little more but the search engine and copy/paste function is a lot better.

Think about it, John. What concern do you have with it being that way?

The condensation that forms in the vent system is a mixture of nitric and sulfuric acid. It will eat holes through the metal vent. If it drains back to the heat exchanger, it will eat holes in the exchanger. It will turn masonry chimneys to mush, like it did to this one: Image Insert: 70.8 KB The mortar had turned to loose sand and the bricks crumbled from gentle pressure applied by my fingers.

When you say "structural wood frame work around the window" I think of the studs and headers inside the wall. Is that what you mean? If so, my BS meter is pegged.

The link is to answer this question: The answer to your second question: is not straightforward because it depends upon a lot of information that's not in your post. You'll need to gather info about the existing vent system and appliances and work your way through Chapter 13 of NFPA 54 in order to get the answer. A competent HVAC contractor should be able to do this quickly.

Hi John, You can access all of the NFPA codes and standards from here: NFPA Codes and Standards Brandon

Maybe it is and maybe it isn't. I think I might recommend further evaluation of that statement by an appropriately qualified professional ... or not. []

Wow! I'm glad to hear you and the others are ok. It could have been a lot worse.

Winner of the neighborhood Christmas display competition?

Same here. I installed four Velux skylights in the roof of an addition I built on my home. I used their flashing kit and did everything according to the instructions. No leaks in over 12 years. bourbondog - you'll need to look at them closely and see if the wood is in good shape, with no rot. If the wood is good you can refinish them. Also check the weather seal on the ventilating units. Price out some new units (they are not cheap) and decide if you want to replace with new or spend the time & money to rehab the old. Whatever you do, spend the money on the Velux flashing kit (it's not cheap) and make sure that whoever does the work follows the manufacturer's instructions.

That's correct. The AAV is a check-valve, only allowing air to flow into the system. The house system needs to have at least one vent that will allow air to flow in both directions.

The short answer to John's question is that there is an increased risk of fire or electrocution when an extension cord is used where the code requires permanent wiring. We can't build houses or electrical systems that are risk free. We can reduce risk but it comes at a cost. At some point there is a balance between cost and acceptable levels of risk. That balance point shifts over time due to changes in technology, costs, and social perceptions of acceptable risk. In this case, a nationwide panel of subject matter experts determined a long time ago that temporary wiring methods carried higher risks; risks that could be lowered at a reasonable expense by using a permanent wiring method. In other words, it won't cost a lot to do it right -- extend a branch circuit and install a j-box and receptacle -- and doing it right will lower risk. The hazard with using an extension cord, a temporary wiring method, lies in its very nature. It's temporary. That means it is easily moved or removed. So while the cord that is there today might be sized OK, routed OK, supported OK, and be in good condition, those conditions could be easily changed in the future. Joe Homeowner decides some day that he needs that nice heavy duty cord for something else. He replaces it with a low quality, low ampacity, two conductor, indoor cord. Or he borrows that cord, and when he puts it back, he wraps it a little too tightly around the sharp angled steel door track or motor support. Or he gets tired of the cord getting in the way of him taking that big box down from the shelf, so he decides to staple it to the ceiling, and in the process he pinches the conductors or damages the insulation on the extension cord. Maybe some day the loose end of that cord (outside the photo), for whatever reason, lands against the hot muffler of the lawn tractor parked in the garage .... I'm guessing that #2 is because of #1 and the fact that there are many installations that are like John's photo. They've identified a common installation error and are trying to say in plain English: "Don't do it."

Yes. The system must have the grounded conductors ("neutrals") and the equipment grounding conductors ("grounds") bonded together inside the enclosure that has the service ("main") disconnect. They need to be kept separated everywhere else downstream.

We need our footings at least 4 feet below grade here in order to get below the frost line, so foundation stem walls made of CMUs or poured concrete are common. In our climate the biggest concern with that cracking would be with water entering the crack and the freeze/thaw cycle causing more cracking and deterioration of the wall. For that reason I would recommend the parge coating be repaired. I'm curious. You folks on the left coast are in earthquake country. Is that the kind of damage to a CMU stem wall & slab foundation that might be caused by an earthquake?

A variation on Jerry's answer... Flick the first switch on for about 5 minutes and turn it off. Turn the next switch on and go inside. First switch controls the bulb that is off and warm. Second switch controls the bulb that is on. Third switch controls the bulb that is off and cold.

Les - that pic of you reminds me of Anthony Hopkins in Silence of the Lambs... I hope all is going well and you fully recover soon. Brandon

Whatever you choose to use, make sure you have the permission of the author and publisher to use and share it in the way that you would like to do.

Lots of rust inside that panel ....

This may be an updated version of Hansen's "Electrical Inspection of Existing Dwellings". Electrical Inspection Book at ITA/Kaplan I can just barely make out Hansen, Kardon, and Casey on the cover pic and the writeup mentions Hansen by name and has brother Katen's endorsement. P.S. - I wouldn't pass over an opportunity to contact the author...

huh?! [:-paperba

Jim, I wish you a speedy and full recovery. Brandon

There's a lot more force continually pushing against the wall from the outside than you would ever see from a basketball bouncing against it. I bet that if you fired the basketball at the wall with a cannon, it would do little more than leave a scuff mark.