TimK

For what it's worth, the various forms of venting can all work, or not. I was a roofing project manager (PM) for a Design/Build contractor (thrown in to the deep end with no training - yay!). This was added on top of my Home Performance PM job duties. This was in Bend Oregon right after we'd had a winter that led to a lot of houses having destructive ice dam issues. There was 3-1/2 feet of layered snow and frozen rain on my roof that had to be shoveled off - that happened in 5 storms over the course of 1-1/2 weeks - oh joy! The houses that I saw the least damage in were the older houses with gable vents. The ridge vents were sealed up with the above-mentioned snow/ice layer cake. There's a fair amount of wind here regularly, which is my best guess as to why the gable vented houses worked better. The GAF roofing materials representative argued the company line that we had to close the gable vents - because they were neither high or low vents. My theory is that it doesn't matter (gable vents don't care what you call 'em) if air moves through the attic regularly - and I argued with the GAF rep endlessly. I understand the idea, but our local experience said that the gables were just fine. If you have to have the roof shoveled in the winters when we have those kinds of storm, it's not exactly beneficial, especially if the occupants are elderly, or if the rooves are steep or 2-3 stories high or otherwise difficult to access. Bottom line, you need airflow under the sheathing, by whatever means works in your situation. Building science is a discipline that needs to be applied with thought to the individual scenario.

I've found what feels like a pretty good approach. I quote an amount that includes a 4% CC processing fee, rounded to the nearest $5.00, and offer a discount if they pay by check or cash. The people who pay by cash (rare) or check appreciate it.

I have been using the collapsible (to 36") Extend&Climb Pro15.5' for a couple years with good results and confidence. Once in a while I need to clean the stanchions and every time I use it I take the time to look for the green indicators to be assured it's locked on each step level. It's narrow enough at the top end to get into those attic hatches that are minimum or under sized, unlike the Little Giant, which I had used previously. http://xtendandclimb.com/products/telescoping-ladders/pro-series/785p.html

I'm in agreement with Jardine. My Werner does this to about that same extent.

Roofers near here call it an "eyebrow". Officially, I don't know.

There is a product in ridge venting that is designed for snow areas; GAF's is linked here. I would assume other manufacturers make something similar. https://www.gaf.com/en-us/roofing-products/residential-roofing-products/ventilation-and-attic-vents/exhaust/plastic-ridge-vents/cobra-snow-country

I never measure, but on my report's title page I list the approximate size and quote the source, whether it's the listing MLS, county records, or Zillow - Redfin, etc. Any, or all of those, can be in error. I thereby sidestep any liability for its exactitude.

Nice image. On another note, are those convective baseboard heaters? Possibly hydronic? I used to balance vales in commercial settings on convective baseboard heaters, among other things in the world of Test, Adjust and Balance.

Can't wait for the full length version!

I see your Oregon CCB number, but not your OCHI number. I assume it's an oversight since you probably know that it's required in any published format?

Good looking site. Best luck!

Best practices of several energy programs recommend removing vapor barrier(s) from between insulation layers so that moisture doesn't get trapped adjacent to building materials. Therefore it depends on where the "paper" is located. If it is in an attic and the paper is on top, it is incorrectly installed already and should be removed. If it's against the ceiling, it's fine. From the way your question is stated, I suspect the former is the case?

Best practices of several energy programs recommend removing vapor barrier(s) from between insulation layers so that moisture doesn't get trapped adjacent to building materials. Therefore it depends on where the "paper" is located. If it is in an attic and the paper is on top, it is incorrectly installed already and should be removed. If it's against the ceiling, it's fine. From the way your question is stated, I suspect the former is the case?

Does anyone know when the requirement for safety glass in shower enclosures was introduced? It occurs to me that this is likely in an older home, which may have pre-dated the safety glass requirement. (I'm getting the shower scene of Hitchcock's "The Birds" in my head now)

If there is an attic of height greater than 30" the 2014 Oregon code requires access to the attic. Hatch must be at least 22"x30". No mention of access to the roof being required. Since Oregon's 2014 codes are adapted from the 2009 IRC, I suspect that others may be the same.