SteveSarasota

Ideal 61-059/61-165 tester upgrade Originally Posted by Jeff Merritt the interNACHI site, reposted by permission: -------------- Is this true? SteveR -------------- Since we last talked, Ideal discovered a software conflict that affects the testing of AFCI on the NEW dual protection style Siemens, Murrey and GE circuit breakers. We have worked with the engineers at these companies to resolve this issue and a free software upgrade is now available. The IDEAL models 61-059 and 61-165 are affected. We have had a shipping hold on these items since the problem was identified in February. We are now shipping product. Please ship your unit to Ideal San Diego for free software update and/ or repair or replacement. See attachment for the shipping address and be sure to include your return address. These will be returned to you upon upgrade. Please allow 14 days for turn around. Could you please also notify the other members of iNACH who own either of these testers and let them know that they should return them directly to the same address in the attachment above for free upgrade installation. Members who own the model IDEAL 61-058 ( the earlier version of the 61-059) can send these to the Ideal San Diego location with a check for $80 payable to ideal and they will receive a new 61-059. I hope this helps. Please feel free to call me directly if you have any additional questions regarding this return process. Send to IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. Att: AFCI Tester Upgrade 9650 Chesapeake Drive San Diego, CA 92123

Hello, I have a house in North GA that is being basically rebuilt. Right now we've removed all the drywall and it's bare studs, wiring and outlet boxes. Since the wiring is so exposed, I want to go over everything and make sure its safe and replace what's needed. I was checking the wiring a couple of weeks ago, and found that the previous owner (I wanna believe it was the owner and NOT an electrical contractor), run 14/2 NM Sheathed conductors to the light fixture or receptacle outlet, clipped the grounding wires and connected the hot and neutral only. This is what I found throughout the whole house, so I want to do the right thing. I know it may be overkill, but I want to use #12 CU conductors instead of #14 for all 15 amps circuits. Is there any reason not to? Thank you for your time and patience,

Hello, I did a job Friday on a house built in 2003, concrete tiles roof, one of the ridge tiles was missing. Not cracked, like something heavy stood on it and the parts of the tiles were at the bases of the valleys. The roof was fairly steep 7/12 or so. When I went inside the attic and looked up, I saw what seemed like a moisture stain under the missing tile. The sheathing had the radiant heat barrier attached to the underside of the sheathing and that little section was missing. The tenant claims that the house was hit by lightning while they were away in GA. The pool panel was also fried and they found 4 burned kitchen bulbs when they came back. Does this look like lightning strike to you? See there are no burn marks whatsoever on the ridge and on the visible 2x4. Thanks for your time and patience. SteveR Image Insert: 558.86 KB Image Insert: 555.51 KB

Gentlemen, I ripped the check shortly after I got it, when the realtor called to bitch, my boss said he'd cover the cost of the tester and we ripped the check. So now I am in the market for a new tester. I've been considering several different options, including the venerable Wiggy. I've never worked with a Wiggy and I'm not sure what tests can it perform. Reversed polarity? Missing ground? Missing neutral? Trip a GFCI? Trip an AFCI? I'm leaning towards some of the AFCI/GFCI digital display Ideals that are approximately $350. I don't like the fact that they don't have idiot lights that are visible from across the room as when testing switched receptacles. Any opinions?

Hello, I was inspecting this house this afternoon and while inspecting the pool pump, I saw an outlet, adjacent to a switch they use to turn the pump on/off. I inserted my Ideal 61-058 ($170) and it blew up. Of course the seller, who had been standing right net to me asked me "What did you doooo?". She had seen me walking around the complete house, inserting my tester in every outlet without problems. I went back to my tool bag and grabbed my sticks and idiot lights 240v tester and found they had wired 240v to 120v receptacles. I got upset and mentioned that the tester had cost me $150 or so. And she volunteered to cut me a check for that amount. The idiot realtor called me an hour later implying that I had taken advantage of an old lady with no knowledge of liability and he said that for me, it is the cost of doing business that I lost $150 tester. I disagreed with him and he said that he would not refer any more business to us. That's when my boss stepped in and said he'd cover the cost of the tester for me. I don't want to bash realtors. We all know how ethic they are. Who's responsible for the tester? What do you think? Thank you for your time,

Hello, I just finished inspecting a new condo being finished in Downstown Sarasota. All receptacles throughout the unit were installed upside-down (grounding prong on top). Is this a new practice? Isn't it a safety hazards since if a plug starts to loosen up the first prong that would unplug is the grounding prong? Thank for your time and comments!

FBC-Mechanical 301.13 Wind Resistance • Mechanical equipment and supports exposed to wind shall be designed and installed to resist the wind pressures on the equipment and supports. • Ground Mounted Units for R3 applications may be anchored with #14 screws with gasketed washers according to the following: 1. Unit with sides less than 12 inches, 1 screw at each side. 2. Units between 12 and 24 inches 2 screws per side. 3. Units between 24 and 36 inches 3 screws per side. 4. Units greater than 36 inches or 5 tons anchorage shall be designed in accordance with 301.13. Thanks Dom! The code was basically created to avoid more flying objects in case of Hurricane Force Winds.

Dom, Should I call or email the Code-God of FABI for this one? Mr Hooper can probably recite the code # and section in his sleep. Thank you,

Hello, I typically tell buyers to have their condensing units attached to the concrete pad to avoid potential refrigerant leaks due to excessive vibration of the unit loosening the soldered lines. Is there a code that requires that? Any idea how long its been in use? Thank you for your time,

It is with a saddened heart that we notify you of the passing of long-term FABI member, Norm Sage. A viewing will take place today, June 26 from 2-4 PM and from 6-8 PM at the Babione Funeral Home in Boca Raton. His funeral will take place on Tuesday, the 27 at 10:30 AM. The following obituary was taken from the Sun Sentinel: “Sage, Norman, 66, of Boynton Beach, FL passed away on June 24, 2006. Norman is survived by his loving wife of 27 years, Leslie, and children: Jeff, Lori, Marci, Sean, John, Jimmy, and Michelle. He also leaves his grandchildren: Tori, Ali, Garrett, Jacob, Erin, Haley, and Alicia to cherish his memory. He will be deeply missed by those who knew and loved him. Visiting hours will be held on Monday, June 26, 2006 from 2-4 & 6-8 PM at Babione Funeral Home (west chapel). On Tuesday, June 27, 2006 a Funeral Service will be held at the funeral home at 10:30 AM. Arrangements entrusted to Babione Funeral Home.â€

Mike, I've read in the manual that it can detect a False Ground up to 15-20' upstream of the outlet being tested. So if I open up the outlet I'm testing and I don't see any neutral to ground contact, it could have detected it elsewhere. Making the supposedly false readings true false grounds. And why is it that electrical contractors are not seeing the same False Grounds I see? Thanks,

Hello, During the past 2 years, I've been using my trusty SureTest and identifying false (bootleg) grounds. I typically include with the report, the page of the manual from the SureTest that explains what a false ground is (NEC 250-23(a)). Lately, I've been getting complaints from realtors (Tell me something I don't know) who have had the outlets checked and the electricians have said I was full of it and there was nothing wrong with the outlet. How do you guys defend your findings when it comes to FG's ? Do you even mention FG's in your report or plainly ignore them? Thanks for your time,

We all know the primary purpose of the serial number is to indicate the date of manufacture of the WH, so here it goes: STATE: 1st position of the S/N is the month of manufacture, A=Jan, B=Feb, the second and 3rd positions are the year of manufacture, 91=1991, 03=2003 etc. A.O. SMITH: First letter of the S/N is the plant of manufacture. Second letter is the month of manufacture (same as STATE) and 3rd and 4th numbers are year of manufacture (same as STATE) RHEEM: The first four number of the S/N indicate the month and year of manufacture MMYY. BRADFORD-WHITE: 1st letter of the S/N is the year of manufacture, A=1984, B=1985 all the way to Z=2003. Second letter is the month of manufacture, A=Jan, B=Feb. (I guess they have started again with "A" after 2003(?) I don't know ) AMERICAN WH COMPANY: The first two numbers are the year of manufacture, the second two are the week within that year. That's all for now,

I just hang up the phone with Delta Lightning Arrestors Customer Service and they said the installation is WRONG!. They Arrestor should be installed/connected to any CU breaker (not double lugged unless is a Square D) and it would protect the complete panel. I love it when I'm right, which is not too often (Just ask my wife). SteveR PS: Any FL inspectors going to the FABI conference this weekend? See you there!

Hello, I inspected this condo built in '79 today, and found a 1/0 AL wire connected from the main located outside, to the bus bars at the panel. There was a #12 CU wire connected under the same lug, to the lightning arrestor. Is this ok ? Thanks, Click To Enlarge