homnspector

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It is downstream. It is part of a group of vacation rental units. At some point they decided to move all of the meters to a central location. I agree they look manufactured (except for the electrical tape). They are in every unit and all look to be the same size and shape. Jim, wouldn't the resistance in the conductor increase with length, and conversely decrease the shorter the conductor?

Bob, the way I understand it 22 volt appliances don't need a neutral, common or grounded conductor (depending on your choice of words) but should have a grounding conductor (the uninsulated wire). The dryer is a special case because it has a 110 volt motor, so needs the neutral and the ground. Jim K had a nice instructive diagram in a recent post showing how the 220 and 110 come from different areas of the transformer at the street, why 110 needs a neutral and 220 doesn't. Not sure if that's what you were asking. Brian or Jim can probably answer better.

That looks Ok except that it looks like there is a jumper installed from the panel body to the neutral bus. Most newer dryers do need a ground in addition to the neutral though. Image Insert: 126.95 KB

Would you call this out? These jumpers look to be #6 solid copper, flattened and bent to jump the meter socket (meter was installed in a different location). 200 amp main breaker. Obviously, the #6 is smaller than the service conductors (not visible) and would represent a weak link, or would they handle 200 amps since they are so short? Image Insert: 254.4 KB

I don't like the looks of the gas line, but what's the problem with the tank?

Jim, not negating your position, just defending mine. I don't see how it is any different from any other thing we test. I haven't read the IRC in awhile, but I think it says that over 80 PSI should have a regulator installed. If it is over 80 PSI, recommend a regulator, how is that hard or time consuming? Most pex pipe is rated for 100 PSI. I think you would have a hard time defending the position that 125 PSI was OK if a pipe burst and flooded the house. Washing machine hoses can burst at any pressure but it is way more likely when the pressure is in the 100 PSI range. In hindsight, that quick test would have yielded some pretty useful information. I have had my meter peg out at 160, is that acceptable?

Dang, nothing is ever simple. "Wrong and don't dictate a repair" Good point. But after reading your post, it sounds like it might actually be OK if it is a feeder cable assembly. (I am pretty sure if it was, the sheathing is stripped back farther than the conduit) AND if it is rigid conduit. How do you tell the difference between rigid conduit and EMT?

I always check pressure. I don't want the liability when the washing machine hoses break while the new owner is on vacation. Around here, anything over 80 psi is required to have a regulator installed. I wouldnt want to be the guy who didn't recommend a regulator when those hoses break.

Thats a nice reference. I never paid much attention to R value, I think its kind of a useless estimate except to compare different types of insulation and I don't include any R value in a report. I usually just estimate the depth and report on type and depth. This client was very concerned about R value. Kind of like the same way everybody is suddenly concerned about miles per gallon.

Brian, I don't see how the bare copper can be a problem as a ground, its just that it is in use as a neutral as far as I can determine. Lemme splain agin: There are 2 insulated conductors in the EMT, both are hot. There is 1 bare stranded copper in the EMT connected to the neutral bus. I guess the EMT is used as a ground IF you consider the stranded bare copper a neutral. So, my theory is to install 1 additional insulated conductor for a neutral and leave the exiting bare copper as a ground. Am I missing something?

1/300 is the floor area of the attic, although I think the standard is 1/150. I think a combination of ridge and soffit or eave vents is usually considered ideal. IMO, powered vents are unnecessary and a waste of money but may have their place. You could spend all day measuring attic vents to determine if they meet code. Here is what I say: "Ventilation appears adequate. "Adequate" ventilation means that vents are installed and no evidence of past or present moisture buildup was observed. Total attic ventilation area is not measured to determine if the amount of ventilation conforms to any certain code or standard." One of the few times I use "appears" in my reports.

This panel (sub panel) was fed by 2 insulated conductors and one bare conductor in metal conduit. I am pretty sure that the bare conductor is not allowed as a neutral as it is in contact with the metal conduit which I am assuming is the grounding conductor. So what is the recommendation? Install an insulated neutral conductor and leave the uninsulated as a grounding conductor? Also, obviously the neutrals and grounds have to be seperated or isolated. I think these can be separated by removing a jumper. Looks like there is a spare larger lug. Image Insert: 270.09 KB Image Insert: 255.33 KB

Thanks Chad

Anybody know offhand the approximate R value of 8 inches of blown in cellulose?

From your post, it sounds like a new roof so this post may be no help. Tar and gravel is fairly common around here but most are older. What I see most frequently is leakage at the perimeter drip edge (gravel-stop). The underlying built up roofing doesen't seem the adhere real well to the metal. You may see staining or dryrot at the eaves or interior of the fascia. Usually there has been leakage at the chimney flashing. The gravel is important for UV protection so there shouldn't be any bare spots. I always note (in bold) that I can't see the acual roofing due to the gravel coating, leaks can be difficult to track down and repair, expect eventual leakage at the perimeter, have flashings re-sealed regularly, re-spread gravel annually, patching should be considered a temporary measure at best.

Now those are funny, I don't care who you are! Here's one to add, I have run into this 2 times this week, vent pipes right at the evaporative cooler intake. Image Insert: 142.54 KB

If poles close enough and battery powerful enough, no need for copper wire. Spark jump across thin air! Air not good conductor.

AAV's and mechanical vents have been allowed here on site built homes for about 5 years. Obviously from the posts there are some problems with these things. Do they leak ? John, There was actually a very nice high loop on the dishwasher drain.

"The water heater is beyond its average life. I recommend replacement now." How can a singular water heater have an average life span?[]

Brian, thanks for clarifying that, I guess I never knew what the cheapie black ones were called. The only thing I can find says it must have a 100 mm rise but says nothing about having to be higher than the fixture.

Should this AAV / vent be above the sink rim or at least above the bottom of the sink? Image Insert: 110.79 KB

You can get the cheapie plastic calipers for a couple of bucks, I think I paid under $4 with shipping, quite a bit cheaper than the gauges. Without a dial it is a little difficult to read the smaller sizes, but you don't really need it for 10-14. I have been thinking of filing marks that line up like a vernier caliper for different sizes but the sharpie might work if you can write small enough. From a practical point of view, I have maybe used this thing 2 or 3 times. Most panels here you can't see the SE cables, when you can, you can usually read the size on the cable.

No, gauge is gauge, but the insulation is getting thinner and thinner. From Wickipedia: Note that for gauges 5 through about 14, the wire gauge is effectively the number of bare solid wires that, when placed side by side, span 1 inch. That is, 8 gauge is about 1/8 inches in diameter.

I converted an underwater camera I got for $100 at harbor freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=91309 Didn't have to do much, I took the weight off of the camera, trimmed the fins off and took the housing apart to modify it so the cable comes out the back. While the camera was out of the waterproof case I adjusted the lens so it focuses at a few inches instead of in the 1 foot range. I got it because the rotorooter guy wanted $188 to find the problem in my line. It took me about 5 minutes to find the crushed PVC and 2 days to dig it up and fix it. Anyway, after the "conversion" I just taped the cable to an electrical fish tape. Only other thing I have used it for was to verify a break in some underfloor flex duct as no crawl space access was provided. If anybody is interested I can post pics of the modified camera.