homnspector

well, the good news is that "wonder88" is thoroughly enlightened now

"write their reports using nothing but their own brains and fingers" I would agree, but the software makes a nice template so you don't forget to report on something that is required to report on. Really, most of the software is just a fancy checklist. "Did you check the service entrance conductors?" "Yes, I did, they are #2 copper." The problem is the software companies have tried to substitute boilerplate for knowledge. I just don't see a problem with a long, boring report. Our job (unlike Walter's) is not to entertain our clients, our job is to inspect the home and convey to them what we saw. Whether they read it or not doesn't really concern me. Bain's example is a good one. #4 copper service entrance conductors. Here are some choices: 1) Leave it out, it means nothing to the client and the conductor size is adequate. 2) report "the SEC are #4 copper". 3) Explain what this means: "The service entrance conductors are #4 copper. The size of the conductors is adequate for the 60 amp panel serving the circuits in the home. Most homes today have a 200 amp service. If you intend to upgrade the electrical system to modern standards, you should be aware that the service entrance conductors will also need to be upgraded at an additional expense." To me, the third example (although maybe considered boilerplate) is more informative and serves the needs of most clients and is necessarily the most wordy. Probably the most boring to read also. I don't know, I can see both points of view. I just feel like the best thing you can do for the client is to help them understand what they are buying and how it compares to "today's" standards.

Kurt, that sounds actually like a great idea, I'd love to see it. I just get a little irked with the attitude that 'if nothing's wrong with it, don't report it". The standards are there to be sure you looked at the size of the service entrance cables (not to pick on anybody). You look at it, you report it. If you don't report it, the client, the lawyer, the jury assumes you didn't look at it. Besides, I think it's lazy.

The point is, why would you want to allow water to get under the shingles? That is what this arrangement does. It's no better than a bucket in the attic. I'm betting the only reason these don't leak is the underlayment.

Here in AZ we really don't have the option of a short, concise report. We are required to report on things whether defective or not, so my reports are usually in excess of 30 pages. In about 3000 inspections, I have had 2 complaints about the report (I'm not counting things I have missed, I'm talking about the style and level of detail). In both cases (and both warranted), the complaints were that I did not describe fully enough, not that I said too much. I have had hundreds of compliments about the level of detail and the thoroughness, clients like what you guys call 'fluff', it makes them realize you are doing your job. I think customers would be pissed if you charged them $400 for 3 pages of defects with no other explanations. But, whatever works for you, do it. As far as explaining, I try to assume that the client is not stupid but does not know the things I know and that's why I was hired. I try not to use technical terms and if I do, I explain them, all that takes words and more words. I am not trying to create a report for the "lowest common denominator", I am trying to get the point across to somebody who is not a home inspector or engineer. Same way I want my lawyer or doctor to explain things to me. Yes, there are clients who are smarter than others, that is what the telephone is for. I don't mind at all if a client calls me to find out where the water valve is, its not like I remember, I guide them to the page in the report that has a description and picture. They are happy for the help. Also, I am very reluctant to tell them exactly what is wrong with the furnace. We know at this point that a service call is needed, why take a guess at a broken igniter then have the HVAC tech tell them the furnace needs to be replaced? All it does is get you in a pissing match with the furnace tech who will no doubt win.

"wondering why anyone would use it on anything other than a tile or metal roof" I agree, they have completely different functions. Step flashing will keep the water from running under the shingles. Pan flashing channels water away that is allowed to run under the tile (or in this case the shingles). I have seen "L" metal used on sidewalls, heavily coated with roof cement to try to prevent leaks but don't think I have seen what Chad is referring to on a composition shingle roof.

Anybody got any pictures or diagrams? I am having a little trouble following this. It sounds like what you are talking about is what we call pan flashing here, used on the sidewalls on tile roofs. Doesn't the rake refer to the sloped edge of the roof, from ridge to eave, rather than the sloped edge abutting a wall?

You forgot the Cadillac http://www.aelight.com/

Like Jim said, more moisture below. I would be fairly concerned if they were installed on a concrete slab. either way it may indicate improper installation with no vapor barrier (I am assuming you meant to say no moisture barrier under them). If there was a crawl space, was there a subfloor? Sometimes I see 1x hardwood installed without subflooring, not a good idea.

Bob, probably not any more defects than standard soldering. I don't know about you, but any joint soldering I have done REALLY needs a leak test and some repairs, course, I'm not a plumber.

Yea, its just a fancy soldering iron that has grooves to fit the pre-soldered fittings

"Fittings with the solder built in are common in the UK, I'm told. A friend was importing them to sell and couldn't find any interest." Neal, I see these fairly commonly (a different animal from the above discussion) and the tool is cheap, about $50. Image Insert: 8.63 KB I haven't run into the ProPress yet or I may have confused it with the pre-soldered.

Sounds like the inspections are well worth the price.

Girder Beam

I'm sure you would have caught this the first time through, but I have run into a few new homes where they 'forgot' to remove the temporary rubber caps from the vents when they pressure tested the drain lines. Sure sounds like it must be blocked vent(s).

Couldn't happen to a better team. ooooo<><><><><><><><>{> [:-cowboy]

Aren't those purlins?

Good to know the reasoning behind it, it is always good to be able to explain to the client why you are not inspecting something. I had a Realtor once adamantly demand a discount for "her" client because I wouldn't run the air conditioner. Naturally I declined.

Georgians have little feet, or is that Little Feat?

R311.5.3.2 Tread depth. The minimum tread depth shall be 10 inches (254 mm). The tread depth shall be measured horizontally between the vertical planes of the foremost projection of adjacent treads and at a right angle to the tread’s leading edge. The greatest tread depth within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch (9.5 mm). Winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 10 inches (254 mm) measured as above at a point 12 inches (305) mm from the side where the treads are narrower.Winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 6 inches (152 mm) at any point. Within any flight of stairs, the greatest winder tread depth at the 12 inch (305 mm) walk line shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch (9.5 mm).

I think you guys have it nailed, but, 1920's...? Could be part of a whisky still. Kind of like the grow lights we see nowadays.[:-drunk]

Brandon, I don't know the answer to that, hopefully one of our A/C experts will chime in. I once had one blow a fuse (old unit) in the condenser unit and the service tech told me it was due to high head pressure. I quit operating them in the heat after that. I don't really see the point anyway as long as you can run the A/C you get a good idea of the condition. The reversing valve could be bad but I think that is pretty rare.

If you mean the back up resistance heat, I can't imagine it would hurt anything. I do it all the time, even when it's 110 degrees. I won't run the heat pump function if it is over 75 degrees.

"The extended model supposedly would be SL100XL-8 but I don't know if that would actually be on the label." It will have either a 4,6, or 8 on the little hangy-down metal tag depending on the length. If the tag is gone I think it is also stamped on the disk.

This e-mail was forwarded to be by the agent for my client, a lady from Palm Beach who moved to this neck of the desert. It's pretty funny. Last night for the second time in a month I walked into a kitchen spider web with literally a hundred tiny, tiny white spiders that got all over me and in my hair. Of course, I stripped right there and pulled my hair out. They were all over me even a few when I went to bed. We vacuumed up the spiders and web, and this morning there was a new one. Also, last night there was a nice brown scorpion in the kitchen crawling around. Don’t forget the juicy tarantula in my bedroom two weeks ago, and the termites outside. So, can you ask around for a really good bug guy. Mine is not so great. You met him. He’s a little nutty. I have to get rid of these spiders FIRST! They are freaking me out. You can imagine me stripping and shaking them off of me. I won’t go in the kitchen now. That’s it. I have to say the bugs are worse here than Florida. I can’t believe I am saying that. The Bobcats and Coyotes and Javelina don’t bother me at all, but the bugs…