homnspector

This is just more architectural "green" BS. You take a $10,000 steel shipping container (brand new, not used or recycled) and build a $500,000 house around it and call it environmentally responsible. Whats "green" about a shipping container? They are built of steel, take massive resources to build, aren't insulated, most used ones are probably contaminated. This 'green' bandwagon is starting to piss me off.

AHI, A couple of other points. These often seem to be undersized. I have had homeowners complain that they cant keep their house warm, so you may want to put in a disclaimer about proper sizing being outside the scope of the inspection. Also be sure the water heater is a fast recovery type. Sometimes the water heater gets replaced with a standard water heater and won't heat adequately. I also warn them that the water heater will usually have a shorter life due to nearly constant use in the winter. Around here, the heat exchangers eventually get clogged with calcium, obviously you won't have any way to check this but the homeowner will call you when the repairman gives them the bill.

Here is boilerplate I include: This system produced an output temperature of about 100 (or whatever) degrees. This is fairly typical for hydronic heat. Due to the output temperature, these systems take a while to heat the home but do economically maintain a normal temperature. It is best to leave the thermostat at the ideal temperature rather than changing it constantly when leaving the house, etc. In addition, you may need to increase the heat setting at the water heater in the winter. Use caution to avoid scalding in the showers if the water heater is turned up in the winter. Installation of temperature regulating shower fixtures is recommended. Some tips for better operation: Increase the temperature setting at the water heater in the winter (be careful of possible scalding) Change the filter often. A damaged filter can allow dust to clog the heat exchanger. Periodically drain some water from the water heater to help prevent scale buildup in the heat exchanger (monthly drain out 5-10 gallons). Turn off the valves to the heat exchanger and reduce water temperature in the summer.

I probably overreact to this. I know only 2 electricians well. One was about electrocuted from a hot neutral on a disposal circuit. The other one always installs 2-pole breakers for multi-wire circuits. So, early in my career I assumed that was the way it was supposed to be. I have probably pissed off alot of electricians and sellers over the years. I am glad to see it in the NEC. Thanks jgclancy for posting that.

Well Jim, I see this the handle tie is now a requirement in the 2008 NEC. (210.4 requires simultaneous disconnecting of all ungrounded conductors of multiwire branch circuits.) Will you be recommending it now? Or do you still believe " there is no "issue" to tackle."

I really don't see where it is a problem.. but if you are going by IRC it is not allowed. I think I would mention it as a defect. SECTION E3809 FLEXIBLE CORDS E3809.1 Where permitted. Flexible cords shall be used only for the connection of appliances where the fastening means and mechanical connections of such appliances are designed to permit ready removal for maintenance, repair or frequent interchange and the appliance is listed for flexible cord connection. Flexible cords shall not be installed as a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure; shall not be run through holes in walls, ceilings or floors; shall not be concealed behind building walls, ceilings or floors; and shall not be installed in raceways.

I think "frig" is a circuit breaker label between the "dinning room" and "drier" circuits.

I have never heard of "certifying" a roof, what does it mean?

I think in both cases I would be after the RE agent to get my tool back. Let them know it is a $400 tool and you don't take theft lightly. If you had dropped your wallet and they kept that would it be OK? If it's like my wallet it's worth way less than a moisture meter. The other option is you can try to get it back by bidding on it on e-bay.

I believe a Reglet is a princess or baby queen. Or is it the plastic thing on a shoelace? I don't see many of what Chad is talking about, most of our chimneys are stucco.

Poor woman, now I'm glad I gave her the $35. Bob, I use "3D". It is databased rather than Word or word processor which sometimes makes formatting, page breaks, etc. a bitch. It comes complete with TONS of inspectorspeak. I do like the diagram features and the options for where to place photos. I am thinking maybe a 12 step program. I wonder why it is more difficult for me to write more simply. ZD net has free drawing programs for roof diagrams, etc. This is one I have used in the past, it's pretty easy and can be imported into the report like a photo: http://downloads.zdnet.com/download.asp ... cid=227363

All good info. The formatting problems are easy to deal with except maybe the page breaks that seem to change when I print to PDF. The main problems seem to be the language and mixing defects in with non-defects in the "condition" sections. I knew I would get plenty of comments on the passive language. I have a really hard time with that one. It seems like if I write in active voice it comes out sounding like my "what I did on my summer vacation" composition in 4th grade. I can keep the photos out of the description / condition area, each on its own line with the caption to the left and ditch the captioning at the base of the photo. How best to separate defects from description? Another sub-heading? Maybe a different font [:-irked](slowly I turned, step by step...). How in the world do you do that separation in a fully narrative report? The only reason for the burner flames picture is I had a client move into a home about 4 months after I had inspected it. The furnace didn't work when she moved in. She called and insisted I couldn't possibly have checked the furnace. There was no way I could convince her that I had checked the furnace. She had a home warranty. I finally gave up and paid her deductible of $35 to shut her up. Ever since, I try to show a photo of anything I can show in actual operation. Strictly CYA. I'm not sure how to get around that one.

As long as there is no lead paint on them, I am OK. (damn kids licking the breakers). I mean really, this is good to know but to put this crap on the inspector? I think we need to draw a firm line on recalls, counterfeits, etc. The way things are going, we could spend a week researching every device in the house. Now, if we were compensated for that, maybe.

OK, I'll take a shot at posting a report from today. A real dump, but hey, the good ones are easy to report on. I would appreciate comments on: Style; too soft; too hard; wrong; cosmetic; not enough detail (difficult to understand); beyond the scope; missed items (from photos); passive voice (yeah, you too Walter); stupid boilerplate; spelling and puncuation (I can't remember the last time I proof-read a report); and anything else you want to comment on. One or two positive comments are not required but are welcomed. I know this requires time and effort and it is appreciated. We all want to get better at what we do and I am happy to critique in return. I would prefer you post comments here rather than e-mail me so we can all learn from this. If your comments will get you banned from the board, e-mail me at fritz@kellyhomeinspection.com Disclaimers: There is extraneous info in all of my reports due to state standards. I know you don't care if "no skylights are installed". Try to wade through that crap and know that I don't include it because I want to. Here is the link to the shack www.homnspector.com/2007-10-30Anonymous.PDF

Mike, It sounds to me like in the first post you are the one advocating the pigeon-holing, hence, the entire reason I posted in the first place. Sorry if you got that impression. We just differ on the term 'maintenance'. IMO, 'deferred maintenance' is realtor-speak for 'numerous repairs or replacements'.

It doesn't hurt to give back if the cause is good. Just remember the liability is the same whether you got paid or not, so take it seriously. I save my 'donations' for first time home buyers or others who are having a really hard time getting into a house. If the Realtor gives me a sob story, I want to know how much they are discounting their commission. I never offer to inspect at no charge or at a reduced rate until after the inspection. The people who really need it are pretty easy to spot. They are the first out with the wallet, trying to pay with some combination of cash and check. It's a nice feeling to tell them at the end of the inspection that there is 'no charge today' (I don't know if it is a $400 feeling, but it's close).

Well, it got me fired up.[:-eyebrow Even if it is just to get something going, it is a good thread because it gets us thinking about the terms we use in reporting. Improvement- Anything that is considered an improvement really doesn't have a place in a home inspection report. Besides, where would you draw the line? Oh, and a second story would be really a nice improvement, especially with the views here. Improvements are something to maybe talk to the buyer about on-site but not to include in a report. If you think the 8 inch baluster spacing is OK because of when the house was built, just say it is OK. Maintenance- This is taking care of things that are in functional condition. Scraping flaking paint, caulking and painting is not maintenance, it is repainting, it is fixing. After it's fixed you can maintain it. Maintenance should only be included in a report as something to do in the future. Re-seal the deck annually, etc. because you want to give your client some extra info. Resealing vent pipe flashings is not maintenance if it looks like they may leak. If you are going to use this term, save it for things like periodically emptying your water heater to reduce calcium buildup (before the buildup occurs). If the water heater is full of calcium chunks and sounds like a coffee percolater, it doesn't need to be maintained, it needs to be replaced. If it needs to be done NOW, it's not maintenance. The items we see need repair or replacement in many cases due to lack of maintenance. Repair- All the stuff we should be talking about in a report. I understand there are gray areas, particularly when it doesn't concern safety, but really, if it NEEDS to be improved, it is a repair. If it doesn't NEED to be improved, mentioning it is just a CYA.

The difference is simple. Repair = Something the buyer is going to want the seller to take care of. Upgrade, improvement = Something the seller is not going to do or feel obligated to share in. There's nothing really wrong but it could be better. Realtors love you to use these words in a report. Consider a pool fence. When my family put in a pool in the mid 1960's there was no requirement for fencing the pool. Would putting in a fence now be an upgrade? I guess it would by the above advice. Does anybody feel that it would be reasonable not to put in a fence? I would list that as a prioroty repair, I wouldn't go on about how it wasn't required when the house was built. Whats the point? If it's not safe, fix it. Sounds like a repair to me. P.S. I think Mike's just trying to stir things up again[:-fight]

"functioning as intended, right?" Probably not, if they have decreased the spacing to 4 inches over a number of years. I'm sure the original intent was to keep people from falling from the deck. Several deaths later, it was decided that the spacing needed to be decreased to keep that from happening.

1 minute, 2 minute, 5 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, Last Hour, 2 hours etc AhhSoooo!

Maybe I'm mistaken and was thinking that they would show up in the "recent topics" since they have had a recent reply. I guess recent topics is based only on the date of the original post.

Sorry, I missed this thread somehow. Does anybody else find that sometimes older threads with new posts don't show up in the "new posts" section? Hold the lighter about 1 inch or so from the glass. With dual pane you will see 2 reflections of the flame, with triple glass, 3 reflections. If the reflections show different color flames, the glass is low-e. The outer reflection is normal, the inner reflections are successively darker and usually greenish. I think it was a glass guy that showed me that.

"Mold can damage a person's eyes if they get close to it, Gore said." First time I've heard that one. No wonder I can't see as well as I used to. No doubt she is related to Al.

I use the $.49 bic lighter. Not very scientific but it works.

"Get a local lawyer who knows a little something about the HI biz to draw you up a general release." Interesting comment from a guy who claims home inspection reports are indecipherable. I am sure Walter could write you up a nice release that anybody would understand. Come on Walter, take a stab at it.[]