Richard Moore

I rated the service at 100Amps due to the SEC size. The clarification I am looking for is, Do we add these tied breakers for total amperage capacity, if the cables were sized properly? Yes to that last. It looks like the panel is being fed by a pair of 75-amp double pole breakers hooked up in parallel. Effectively a "quad" breaker with 75-amps at each of the 4 poles. That would give you 150-amps available on each leg. What are you calling the SEC's that you "rated the service at"? I can only see the bottom of one of the main lugs, and not the SEC's, but the split feeders from there to the breakers' lugs look big enough for the 75-amp load each would have to handle.

My house came with 2 layers (at least) of 3-tab over cedar shingles. During the first 14+ years we would occasionally lose a section of shingles on the weather side slopes to wind storms, which resulted in some leaks and various repairs...some of them very, very stop-gap. At one point you could actually see the silver repair tape from space! Because we knew we were eventually going to remodel, we held off until then...with fingers crossed every time the wind blew hard. The picture is from 2006 when the whole roof finally got replaced during the remodel. Hard working crew! Click to Enlarge 69.35 KB

I was assuming we didn't want to rip up the tiles. But, yeah, if we include anything, then there would be many ways of improving it. Of course, with no guard rail, you could just step right off the thing, land on your head, and never have to worry about it again.

That's the same drain and grill I put in my shower. Of course, I don't have much of an issue with leaves and moss in the bathroom. The circular grill comes out (two screws) and maybe just leaving them out would be the answer(?). I guess that would depend somewhat on the gutter/drain system below and how easy it would be to clean. Another option might be to Dremel out parts of the web to make some bigger openings. You would want to make sure you aren't leaving sharp edges that are more likely to grab debris (or toes). Finally, if you Google images for "shower drain grills" you can see that there are others with different patterns that might fit (or be easier to modify).

Looks like the veneer I sometimes see on 50's or 60's bungalows. The damage in the first photo could be freeze damage caused by water from that shed(?) roof or downspout. The second looks like there is some extra settlement to the right of the cracks. Could be 50 years old or from the 2000(?) quake. Was there a corresponding foundation crack? Any support under the veneer? If what you have posted is the worst of it, then it seems unlikely that there is any structural concern. You basically just have some damaged "siding". Grout, seal, and monitor.

A few things... Brad's roof is crap (he asked for an opinion...that's mine). A what-will-look-good-from-the-street flip. If there was a "roofing contractor" involved, which I doubt, any warranty they provide is worth the paper it's written on, maybe less. I don't see any decent roofing company installing over buckled torch-down, and not addressing the cracked material in the gutters is almost criminal. While all the manufacturers have more stringent requirements for 2-12 to 4-12 roofs when it comes to the underlayment, I can't find any suggestion that reveal should be reduced on these types of architectural shingles. It looks like the days of the 30 year and 40 year warranties are numbered. Certainteed, GAF, Owens Corning, IKO now only have "lifetime" warranties for their laminated shingles. It seems that Tamko still has some "30"s but I suspect they will eventually fall in line. Finally, I wonder how many buyers actually take whatever steps are required by the various manufacturers to transfer the warranty on a new or recent roof? I'm guessing it's a small percentage.

...if using the wall switch by the door is just too far away. Download Attachment: 120520P091x.jpg 88.13 KB Why it needed to be at pee-splash height I don't know, but at least it was protected by the room's GFCI.

I just use a "boilerplate" word doc open alongside the current report template. I have stuff arranged with group and sub-group headings in document map view. I simply select, copy and paste between the two on-screen pages (larger monitors help here). I have a programmable Logitech scrolling mouse set up with a thumb button for copy and the scroll wheel click for paste. It's quick and now second nature for me.

Well...that's just cool! I have no history of allergic reactions to beef or cow-hide. So I'm thinking Pamplona this July and, evidently, no need for all that tiresome running and dodging.

Not sure about the style name, but my guess is the architect was named Salvadore Baggins or maybe Bilbo Dali. On the bright side, the grading looks great!

There is one thing you might check first. If you open up the case there are soldered connections where the socket connects to the circuit board. I don't have any pictures, but a couple of mine (154 and/or 165) went bad and I subsequently found loose connections there. I re-soldered them (awkward but doable) and they have worked fine ever since. But, I've also had one that went bad (early on) and was replaced under warranty. Anyway, if that's not it, and without a warranty, I suspect it would make sense to shop around for a replacement. Hey...at least it's a tax write-off. BTW...I replace the original stiffish pig-tail with an 18" more flexible one (computer stores, Radio shack, etc). That wraps and stows better in my tool belt and seems to put less stress on the connections.

I assumed everyone kept a pair of Korkers in their rig, or something similar..... ... Nope, and this is probably one of those "some do, some don't" things. Myself, I've never felt that I have the right to add more holes to a shake roof with spikes when my client doesn't yet own the house but, yeah, I could have used them today. Thankfully, with the majority of my work in the city, I don't get that many shake roofs. I still walk some, carefully, when they're dry, wearing a generic pair of shoes that I have found with soft and very grippy rubber soles. This one fooled me and once the soles got wet it was enough to lubricate everything.

Talking of shake roofs...how d'ya like today's fine repair on an Eastside mini-mcmansion. Download Attachment: 120504S031x.jpg 136.63 KB BTW, just because a shake roof feels dry to the touch, and it's only an innocent 5-12 pitch, doesn't mean you can't squeeze enough water out of the soft rotted wood to turn even your grippy shoes into air-hockey pucks! Fortunately, I hadn't gone too far and was able to grab an overhang. I worked my way back to the ladder on my backside and did the rest of the roof from the eaves and with binoculars. No biggy, it's an obvious re-roof. Scary though and closest I've gotten to "early retirement" for a while. I'm not sure if it was the old preservative or very light algae, but I've seldom felt anything that slippery before.

He knows the whole house is tipped over on its side, doesn't he?

As long as it's to the pan and not hard plumbed to the TPR itself, I would be OK with it. Hell, how often do we see a water heater pan actually plumbed anywhere?

Thanks Bill & Jim. Malarkey is just down the road in Portland, so I guess it could be those (not that I'm going to identify them in the report). Seeing the listing agent's sign in the kitchen was one of those "Huh?" moments. While I was yet to get on or up close to the roof, I had seen it. I was either having a senior moment or the sign was goofy. Visually, I doubt I could reliably tell the difference between these and the norm. I will say that the granules seemed very well attached. It lacked that feel of loose grit you often get when walking on a newer roof.

So, first there was this in the kitchen... Click to Enlarge 21.1 KB I'm thinking they mean "rubberized" 'cos the shingles looked little different (or thicker) than the everyday 30 year laminated ones. Certainly not the thick rubber "tiles" I occasionally see. Click to Enlarge 35.37 KB Click to Enlarge 36.55 KB If they are rubberized and 50 year, then I assume they are from State Roofing(?). Anyone know anything (good or bad) about these shingles. I have no issues with the install.

It's wrong. If you are using the IRC for plumbing, the code you want is P2803.6.1.4 Click to Enlarge 35.87 KB

Well, then you would have some arguing that the 240 vac breaker for the range is just a single breaker. Johnny Homeowner buys and installs a "single" breaker, no matter how many poles it might have. The number of poles may still be a bit confusing, but perhaps it will at least get Bubba to ask questions. Slight thread drift. I just discovered that the 42 circuit/pole max for panels has been largely removed with the 2008 NEC. 408.35 is no longer there. See http://static.schneider-electric.us/doc ... DB0701.pdf

Also, probably not good for the roof! Click to Enlarge 39.03 KB

You could overload and fry a neutral pigtail, but current caused by a ground fault should be momentary and quickly trip the breaker. So, yeah, it would be "more wrong" for a hot or neutral. Like others have mentioned, I would be comfortable with a compression sleeve at the twisted areas. Both are important but see above. I think we have all seen much, much worse!

It sure would be nice if your client could get the actual documentation for the repairs from the seller before your inspection. There may be obvious indications, as Scott mentioned, but I can also see you spending way too much time searching for, and worrying about, stuff that just isn't there.

It might be price fixing, and excuse me if it is, but could we all agree that it would be worth a few bucks if Les would change that damn avatar. It's very disturbing and I'm praying to Gawd it's not his new look.

1924 home, all the original finished rooms, even the bathroom, had these large resistance heaters. All long disconnected (wires snipped) and replaced with forced air heat. They are basically spring-coils stretched across a fiber panel. I'm guessing those fiber panels are asbestos but was wondering if anyone knows for sure. I've never seen the likes of them before...maybe as a child in England, but never in a home here. Download Attachment: 120302R 111x.jpg 111.74 KB Download Attachment: 120302R 110x.jpg 70.28 KB

Old service disconnect now feeding a pair of panels in a non-conforming 1924 duplex (basement turned into a separate apartment). I think it is preferable to the original fused neutral but it hardly looks like the kosher repair(?). Click to Enlarge 79.68 KB Probably doesn't matter as it is likely the whole shebang will get moved or removed due to the service drop crossing the flat roof, but what would you normally expect to see bridging the neutral fuse holder? Click to Enlarge 57.07 KB Click to Enlarge 94.55 KB