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Phillip Stojanik

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  1. The problem is definitely the number of people in the house. You would be surprised how much moisture vapor is contributed to the air just by breathing alone not to mention cooking and showers/baths for 15! Here's some info on that... http://www.homemoisture.org/controlling/page7.htm
  2. Gee, I think I took part in that discussion on the other forum so I guess I will weigh in here as well. The 2 by 4 test may be the only one prescribed by law but doing only that test is only doing half the job. The 2 by 4 only tests the travel distance under power to assure that the door will reverse if it encounters a low obstruction. The other half of the job is testing the amount of force the door exerts when an obstruction is encountered before backing off. As the article pointed out, there is no standard recognized test for that but there is a standard recognized adjustment method in the owners manual of each and every model out there that requires field adjustment. The model building codes require that the manufacture’s installation instructions be explicitly followed when installing any kind of Listed appliance or device and the manufacturer spells out the proper way to make these adjustments in their installation instruction. There’s the “legalâ€
  3. I am assuming that the mold is on the interior side of the exterior walls only? If that is the case and the interior wall cavities are dry, then it would seem you may have a dew point situation occurring on the interior wall surfaces. This can be exacerbated by high indoor humidity which basically raises the dew point and allows condensation to form at higher temperatures. Since you are in heating climate, I would think that exterior wall insulation would be an absolute must? The insulation contractor said that adding insulation would “hold the heat in…â€
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