blindrid

Sounds like an inspector that would a comment like that would assist in the mass hysteria regarding vermiculite. Anytime ones makes a statement like that to a typical, uneducated owner they would certainly make a big deal out of it for no reason. If someone tells someone to get it removed would surely start another "black" mold argument with the seller, buyer and the asbestos abatement contractor. Oh Yeah? Guess I screwed up, 'cuz I haven't scared anyone off a home yet by tellling 'em not to disturb this stuff. Let's see, in two more months I'll have been doing this 16 yeras. How the hell would you know what kind of inspector I am? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Good morning: I have trained hundreds of contractors / energy analysts / auditors throughout the country and my point has always been to make sure any comments in any reports cannot be interpreted in such a manner not to overstate health hazards and base that information on legitimate testing. When one makes a comment of "assuming that it contains asbestos" is irresponsible and when it may CYA it is not accurate and could only cause a hysteria on part of an uneducated potential homeowner. I guess I'm old school enough to remember the many "cry wolf" reports of various building materials and consider statements that "may contain" or "possibly" does not provide anyone with valid, worthwhile information just shows a possible lack of knowledge. Anyway, have a great day all.

Where is the source of return air? Are you drawing something into your return air duct work?

Sounds like an inspector that would a comment like that would assist in the mass hysteria regarding vermiculite. Anytime ones makes a statement like that to a typical, uneducated owner they would certainly make a big deal out of it for no reason. If someone tells someone to get it removed would surely start another "black" mold argument with the seller, buyer and the asbestos abatement contractor.

100% correct, the one that I saw above that was used for the AC isn't worth the paper it would be printed on. Use real Manual J at a minimum where you input wall sections, glass orientation - there is no short cut like the one used. As to anyone guessing in here, without knowing the design parameters, any latent heat loads and other variables would be a worthless guess.

I'll bite as others won't here: I would guess that the problem is a loose connection - take wire nut off, re-strip and nut, connect ground. I would think the lack of ground did not cause any problems.

And what difference would that make? There is little line loss in a residential structure. IMHO, the wiring would be safe and no different though not the way I would do it. Why would a latex machine and dryer be flammable?

[:-yawn] and what did the forewarning accomplish? It's not needed.

So you pay for a company to provide a test and they do not explain? I would question that initially. Not very useful data . . . . . .

I'm speculating you haven't been around much - I've been around plenty of them - normally in a master bedroom / bath combination. Whew!

A lot of homes have them in the CS. The majority I've seen are tied to a humidistat or a timer as some codes call for a run time, some call for humidistat control. If the fan is installed correctly is should have little noise - the last one I installed we just hung from the joists and isolated it the best we could - it has little noise above the floor. It all depends where you are and seems to work fine. I don't how one could blame a fan for buckled floors though......

I usually drive lags halfway with a hammer first. Works great and it's quick. Marc As well as deck screws........

If the glass is from the '40s it's not safety glass. I'd replace it. Certainly you jest?

It makes the back of the siding wet. Jim: that's the first thing that popped into my mind as well.

Agree 100%.

Having experience in the Loveland area, there are a boatload of homes built like that. I don't understand why it would not be your "choice" though. Issues with design? What would those be?